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Having researched it a bit more - it seems that they were used mainly for racing and on the Coventry Climax engines (in twin format). Lotus had also used them (as they used the Coventry engines) but very shortly - they ditched them for DCOEs. Apparently they work well over 4k rpm and had quite an on/off characteristic. But as DCOEs came into popularity and were more flexible / easier to set up, the twin choke SUs were left on the shelf. Folklore says around 80 were ever made. A UK based company is reproducing them again at a juicy price. So, that itch no longer needs scratching, back to school fees. ;)

I did both openings 1/8" NPT & M5x1 Fixed the running issues! https://youtu.be/pvHhBw-u9Ro First I checked the ECT (cold, 70ºF) - 2160 ohms at the sensor at the ECU : 2180 ohms Normal OP temp 263 ohms. Values within normal range according to Datsun chart (thanks, ZedHead) I could swap it out for a Volvo one - & make it (marginally) fatter when cold.... Might need to do that depending on how the cold starts are now. Anyway, after that I went back to thinking about what could cause the hunting. I realized that when I did the TPS trigger signal, I didn't confirm that the relay I added had diode protection to prevent interference with the stock circuitry. I simply added a diode inline from the TPS to the relay to test the operation. With that in place, the hunting at 2.5K went away. So that aspect was resolved (YAY!) (Thanks also to @Captain Obvious for questioning the off idle interaction . The system still runs lean though. I don't know if all the cleaning out of coking in the TB & clearing other passages has made it leaner. I certainly didn't feel the lean running condition before I started all the mods. I looked at the AFM adjustment, and that made no meaningful difference. Manifold vacuum at idle is good. Regulated Fuel pressure is good While I cogitated on how to address this, I added the AC switch plate and added carpet mat stays So, I decided that instead of futzing with the AFM to try & tweak the AFR's 2 whole points richer, I decided to just raise the regulated pressure to 3bar - using a Volvo regulator of course As you can see form the video above, that brought the AFR's right where they need to be. new regulated fuel pressure under vacuum. Rises to 3bar with vacuum removed. Having confirmed the pressure is consistent & vacuum works I installed a nylon feed line & quick connect in the intake. Old FPR location is bridged with new hose above it. Bay Now I know the system is fully operational, I will revise the return setup, it is overly long - didn't want to cut down the hose that had to connect to the rail return until I knew it would work. With the fueling resolved, I'll switch the HEI module back & see if I can get that aspect resolved

I remember removing the brackets that hold the compressor to swap out a bad fuel pump. One on the bottom and then the fan had to come off to get the top one. It was an ordeal for sure. York system lives in storage now.

Keep in mind that I didn't say I was able to do it successfully. When I encountered that, the owner's son worked at a Kia dealership, and he had one of the mechanics in the service department tear out the non-functioning AC system. It might be that the system will need to be drained of refrigerant if it's still functional, get the hoses off the compressor, and replace everything after you fix the fuel pump.

You'll have to work the compressor loose and pray there is enough flex in the AC lines.

Done - had to shorten the 'nut' to 12mm for it snug in place.

I have the compressor and bracket separated but still no room to get the bottom bolt. Looks like I'll have to go in from the bottom, necessitating draining radiator, removing lower hose and removing alternator. Arghhh!