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Considering it's been about a month since @Mike has been here, all I can say is that I hope he isn't going through anything too bad.

By the way when you install it, Please leave it in there. It’s the heart of the system. Marshall on Amazon sells a nice gauge.

I was told by the head guy at the paint shop that they spray the headlight housings separately because the clear coats will "bridge" the gap between the back of the headlight housing and the front of the fender, where the two parts contact each other. From examination, my car had been painted twice when I received it, once from the factory and one afterwards, in a gold color. I can see, from examination of the disassembled parts, that the car was painted at the factory with the headlight housings bolted in place. The paint surely did "bridge" the gap, to the degree that the number of coats of primer and paint at the factory could. I believe the concern by the paint shop with this repaint is that much more material is used during their paint application process, and as such, more bridging will occur. I don't think color coats are an issue, but the clear coats are likely much thicker than the factory paint coats. Anyway, they are going to do it how they feel is best. I just hope the paint doesn't "crush" and "move" (like it did in on one or two spots on my other 240z) when they bolt the headlight housings to the fender, as there will be a certain thickness of paint on both the fender front edge and the headlight housing back edge, and these will come into contact and compress when the headlight housings are bolted into place. Crossing fingers that they are completing the work this week, and that, if it matters in their shop, the weather cooperates on the day they spray the exterior of the body.

That's just a random 280Z I pulled up. As for clamps, here's a starter set for you that won't break the bank. https://www.amazon.com/30pcs-Assortment-Automotive-Agriculture-Construction/dp/B07NPDMXM5

I assume you are referring to the steel wheel, and not a hubcap. Here are some pictures of my NOS spare tire and wheel for my 1/71 car.

Lots of "standard 240Z" in the mix there, but what does "standard 240Z" mean? What market variant? What gearing? Emissions-mitigating equipment, or not? 150bhp? A nice figure to put on sales brochures and engine bay tags, but I wouldn't use it for calculations like these. Especially when actual power depended on the territory the variant was made for.

This is a great idea! Responding so I remember this and possibly add this useful mod to my 280Z. @dylancorrea1 - Are you sure this is a fuel injection issue? I had a very similar problem with my 1976 280Z that turned out to be a failing Transistor Ignition Unit. Here is my original thread: I was pulling my hair out at first, thought it was a clogged fuel filter, possibly rust in the fuel tank, a clogged fuel vent line or possibly bad injectors. Luckily, the knowledgeable members of this forum, the FSM, and lots of testing and troubleshooting helped me to diagnose and fix the problem. Best of luck and I hope you find your problem.

Please take a hard look at what @SteveJ recommends. You have a lot of trouble shooting ahead of you. As he recommended first it all starts with the fuel pressure . My recommendation is to install a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and fuel rail where you can monitor it while running. This will give you a great head start.

The first thing to check is fuel pressure. What is it at idle, and what happens when you try to accelerate? Is the fuel line to the fuel pump routed like the factory line, or is it kinked? If you put a fluid line clamp (https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-fluid-line-clamp-set-65116.html) on the outlet of the FPR, does that reduce the problem? (Tip, don't clamp it down too tightly, just enough to raise the fuel pressure some. Also, don't make us guess about what year your car is. While we can be sure it's a 280Z, some parts did change over the years. Have you downloaded the FSM and looked through the EF section? How about the fuel injection bible?

If you don’t want to spend that amount of money you are better off digging into your factory system and make it run as designed. It’s an archaic system that will run but needs a lot of attention and detail. Please give us more details on what’s happening and the history of your car. That will help us a lot. can you clarify what you mean by adjusting the AFM?

@kats The Racer Brown car with the G nose/tail spoiler and using a CD of 0.381 would have had a top speed of 160.81mph. The standard 240Z with the same horsepower as the Race Brown car and no aero (CD 0.50) would have a top speed of 146.88mph. The G nose with tail spoiler gives a 10% speed improvement. Standard 240Z with standard 150bhp engine and no aero would have a top speed of 124.89mph Standard 240Z with BRE front and rear spoilers would a top speed of 129mph.

This is the spoiler used by BRE in the early 70's, as you can see it is a perfect fit for my 12/70 car. It is currently available from BRE. https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=020B03&Category_Code=bre_datsun_body_parts

Great pic of the GeeZers.

CZCC Rogues Gallery - Memphis style!

September in Tampa how delightful. I hope they include Gold Bond powder in the welcome bags. Hey let's have a car convention for cars that have shitty or no air-conditioning in 90 degree heat and 100% humidity. I know a lot of the scheduling is based around track availability but I wonder if they would draw more of a crowd if they leaned away from track events and focused on comfort. I have AC and it works pretty well but there is no such thing as an enjoyable "fun run" in September in Tampa. Now in October maybe.

It sounds like you are satisfied with the color, just not the gloss. I agree - way more glossy than OE. Try this: Dupli-Color HWP106 Wheel Matte Clearcoat. That will get you back to a OE-like finish. These are done with a different product for the color, topped with the Wheel Matte Clearcoat.