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Soo. time for another update from the bodyshop. After the floor pans got prepared and made sure that everything fits: They got welded in and attached to the frame rails: Next then was the inner rocker panel: Along with the rear rocker extension the seatbelt mount and seat rails: And the rear section of the floor pansl. Looks really need. and completely differnt to the RH side, where we used the older type of floor pans and lots of homemade panels. What is missing now is the little factory reinforcement piece (see previous post from the bodyshop). and the outer rocker panel. there we currently have a little fitment problem and need to find out if it's the replacement panel or something else is misaligned, Overall i'm again very happy with the work and attention to detail. I always expect more progress when i go there and then i'm disapointed when i see it looks more or less the same than 1,5 weeks ago, but then i start to look and realize all the small details they had to fix, paint, adjust, test, modify, etc. And then i think about the time it took the previous bodyshop to do the same (in a less good result) on the other side and then i'm super happy again. Overall i'd say that already more than 1/4 of the work is done, and that in only roughly 5 weeks. so if the continue like this, it wil be definitely ready in fall. Nice

Now that the record snowfall in northern Utah has melted in the valleys the shows have started. Typically I have the only Datsun flanked by Detroit steel. Plenty of folks are interested in the car, had one in years gone by or had a friend with one, but these are very rarely seen in this neck of the woods due to massive amounts of salt used on the roads in the winter. Something about being right next to the Great Salt Lake makes salt readily available. Here I am again as the lone Z car... More of the show here... (20) mountain west street news picnic - Search Results | Facebook

@SteveJ - thanks for the reference pic. My 75 doesn't have a manifold ground. I do have the dedicated alternator ground - I replaced it recently- the original was fried, probably due to poor grounding in the original main battery cable if I had to guess. I'm going to add a block-to-chassis ground to make sure there is abundant path to ground.

I'm just over 4.5 miles south of HAFB almost directly on line of the runway. Get to see all kinds of military aircraft. About 40 years ago I got to watch a SR-71 doing touch and goes at Hill. The base has one of the nicest golf courses around and is well deserved by those who serve and have served! Thank you for your service!

The wiring diagram shows three connections to the negative battery post... 1) To starter. 2) To EFI system. 3) To body. So I don't know if the wiring diagram is "literal" or "really how it came from factory", but that's what it shows. I also took a look at the 77 diagram (my year) and they only show two connections to the battery negative. My year does NOT have a dedicated connection right from the battery to the body. And now you have me thinking that maybe I should add something like that. So thanks a lot...

Thank you, gentlemen. The PO said that it has had the hot start/no start condition for quite some time (years). His mechanic suggested a new solenoid to solve it, after he installed the reman (I removed) some years back. I have not tested the new reman. The car has started every time so far with the relay in place. I'm going to a Fiat Club gathering in NH tomorrow, so it will be a few days before I can do further testing.

The premise of the added relay is that something along the circuit to the starter solenoid is drawing so much current that the solenoid can not actuate. The circuit has worked just fine for over 40 years I'd guess. Something is different now. The wire from R to the resistor bypass circuit is one of the few things that are different during Start. You have a "key at Start" voltage drop problem. Just offering troubleshooting paths to check. As far as the relays, there are several pictures on the forum of burnt/baked relay coils. They just get old and crusty with time. It's not just water that causes problems. How has it been starting with the new relay?

There is also a similar washer at the rear pivot point for the interior handle

Here's the link in question: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56726-heater-core-alternative-escort-core-into-260280/

Yes, Joe in WI rebuilt both. He was super nice and did quality work. The heater core is an aftermarket one I got on Amazon. Was $38 To rebuild my old one I was quoted $450 so no thanks. This heater core requires minor mods to the heater box. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C7TTBM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title The lines needed to be cut and swaged. Not sure if this kit would work. I had a good friend from the forum so it for me. https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Swaging-Tool-Expander-Conditioner/dp/B0BGDV2WRL/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=swaging+tool&qid=1685735219&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExU0dDUUdIVDMxVDRFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjgwNDUwMkE3TTdZMUs2UVJFTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTc4NjM4MUlFQTBDTjFOSzVYMyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl As far as CaptainObvious’ link, I’ll need to search that when on a computer, on my phone right now.