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A few days ago i got this lovely package just in time for my birthday. Since long i had the idea that it would be nice to hang my collection of various Z-steering wheels on the wall, as they make a nice decoration. But i wasn't able to find any useful solution to hang them nicely with the pins. So i aske din the Datsun Europe FB group if anybody had a solution. Nobody had, but Robert, One nice guy from Austria offered me to design them and print a prototype, as he would also use a set for himself. We (he) played around with different designs and mounting types. But we (he) ended up with this solution. It's simple, comes including installaiton hardware, fits the original two pins and three screws on the backside and can easy be removed once hung on the wall. It's also extra slim, so it can be shipped in a padded envelope and not as a package. So today i finally hung my wheels on the wall (note, top right wheel requires a different mount, which i found on etsy) Fitmend, design and everything is excellent. at the end, he even printed them himself 🙂 And made some nice product photos 🙂 If you're interested. contact robert via this facebook link: https://www.facebook.com/el.bichelino Oh and robert also sent me this Sticker from a central-swiss Datsun Z club from the old days, which was in his car when he bought it 🙂 Thanks again for the excellent work and happy the wheels finally found a nice place.

Now that the record snowfall in northern Utah has melted in the valleys the shows have started. Typically I have the only Datsun flanked by Detroit steel. Plenty of folks are interested in the car, had one in years gone by or had a friend with one, but these are very rarely seen in this neck of the woods due to massive amounts of salt used on the roads in the winter. Something about being right next to the Great Salt Lake makes salt readily available. Here I am again as the lone Z car... More of the show here... (20) mountain west street news picnic - Search Results | Facebook

Well there's lots of diagnosis that could be done to figure out what the real underlying issue is, but at this point, if a starter relay makes it go away, then it sounds like that's going to be good enough for now. There is some extra stuff on the CA spec cars that gets engaged when the key is in the START position, but I don't know how much current it would draw. With a quick look at the wiring diagram, it looks like it would be just a couple more "lamp test" lights in the HVAC vent panel, but in your video it looks like that panel (and it's associated light bulbs) is not installed. Anyway, still hoping that the starter relay takes care of it. if you're looking for something simple to use to test some of the theories (and get you out of a jam like when you're sitting in the que at the store)? Run two wires from your starter into the interior. Use those two wires to short to the solenoid directly like you were doing manually out in the engine compartment. Put a switch on it in the interior if you're feeling fancy (push button start like the new cars ), or just connect the two wires together if you need to.

Now I have a few minutes for the long-form answer. For the 240Z, the ammeter measured the full current between the battery and the ammeter. If there was a short in that area, the full ammeter current would feed the fault. The battery was limited by the fusible link. (Don't be fooled, while the FSM wiring diagram shows a fusible link off the alternator, I've never seen a car equipped with one.) Also, if the ammeter failed, the car was dead. If it was running when the ammeter failed, it might keep running, but as soon as you turn it off, the car would not restart since the battery was now isolated from the majority of the electrical system. For the 260Z, the design was improved by using a shunt to limit the current flowing through the ammeter. Also the failure of the ammeter would not strand the car. Less of a fire hazard and eliminated a single point of failure. That's definitely an improvement. The 75 carried on this design, and the 76 introduced the voltmeter.

The shunt is for the Ammeter.

Video of the click/ammeter draw. This happened when I was sitting in queue for the pharmacy to pickup my Mum's prescription 😞 YT Video So, I added the starter relay when I got home. I'll see if that resolves the symptom. I didn't eliminate the fusible links yet, I want to do one thing at a time added riv-nuts to the top to secure the fuse panel that will replace the fusible links, and supply current for the headlamp relays, etc., moving forward bridge wires routed @Zed Head- thank you for the wiring diagram link I don't think there is an interlock relay on the car

No...I bought them from Z Car Source of Arizona. Again, I apologize for mis-stating their name. I waited months for them to confirm their testing of what I was told were "stock ride height" springs. When I received the springs, they weren't marked as to front or rear (other than a purple marker slash). When I called to ask which were which, I distinctly remember the young man being short and condescending. This thread began based on the fact that ZCSA's springs are not right...I agreed based on my experience. I did not buy them on Ebay...I bought them from a company with whom I had spent over $5,000 that year and trusted their integrity. I was wrong.

I've never had the opportunity to tear into the wiring of a 75, but I strongly suspect that the interlock relay has been completely disabled. Ford developed the seatbelt interlock relay and presented to the NHTSA in the early 70s. The bureaucrats thought that it was the perfect solution for getting people to wear their seatbelts, so they quickly added it to the regulations for the 74 MY cars. This meant all of the other automakers selling cars in the US had to come up with their own interlock schemes and QUICK. Many of the implementations left a lot to be desired. I remember my older brother figuring out how to disable it in our family's 74 Impala. Faced with a litany of complaints along the lines of cars not starting unless the bag of groceries was buckled safely for the trip home, the NHTSA quickly unwound the requirements. Most automakers were even quicker about removing these bastard implementations. However, documentation is usually the last thing the engineering team wants to address, and I'm betting all of the proofs were already completed for the service manuals for the already delayed debut of the 280Z before they got yanked. If the interlock relay did ever exist in a production 75, I would expect it would have the emergency bypass switch like what the 260Z had. More useless trivia: The switch was moved between the early and late 260Zs. On the early (first 12 months) car, the switch is on the right fender, near the battery. On the late (last few months) car, the switch is mounted on the firewall.

Yeah, It doesn't. I nearly sideswiped someone because I instinctively went with the mirror view as accurate. It's WAAAYY off. The ball on the back of the mirror head is too shallow to allow the head to pivot inward to the point where it will cover the blindspot 😞