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Thank you guys for the kind words, it really is appreciated . We have lots of new products coming out soon and I will try to get better at posting on here, if anyone has any questions about the new parts feel free to ask, I will answer as much as I can and include reference photos if I have some.

Part of a multipart project. This is a N42/MN47 NA engine. I just finished it up and hope to do a longer test drive tomorrow.

Update: took the Z for the safety inspection. It passed and I’ll get it registered Monday. I started the process back in July 2018 and finally met my goal. There are still things to fix, preventative maintainence, and such, but the car is driveable. I’ve learned a lot. I want to thank @Patcon @SteveJ @siteunseen @Av8ferg @Racer X and many others for mentorship getting this build complete. I’ve learned a lot from you folks. I really could not have done this without your wisdom.

My 1971 series 1 car needed a head gasket (leaking because I think the head wasnt torqued correctly), and also reinstalled original carbs after overhauling and associated emissions equipment back to stock. Engine was rebuilt and has about 2000 miles on it from the original owner a while back. Head and block are straight. Car sat for about 18 years without being driven. Needed new brake lines and a brake booster. I had the brake booster overhauled at Power Brake Booster in Oregon, they did a great job. This is an original car with 48,000 miles documented. Only "restoration" work completed on the car was paint and body. All original interior. No leaks and runs great.

oh jeez they were used....

had the guide bolts in (cut tops off, extra long) we could never get that close to even try it. the compressor kept getting in the way, even with it tied off as far out of the way as possible. Maybe if I had removed the compressor mount then tried it. Its all so tight in there with installing the compressor, I was concerned that getting the mount bolted to the engine block with the compressor in the way would make it hard to do, so I left put the mount on the replacement engine before installing....

The secret to getting the engine and tranny matched up while in the car I’ve found is to get two old long head bolts threaded through the top two bolt holes in the bell housing then started into the block. Then, get someone to help square up the tranny to the block and slide her right in. No problem! Don’t forget to grease up the pilot bushing.

It's always nice to hear one running up through some gears. Sounds great.

Yes.. do you make these fenders for the s30 with the "molds" (die/matrix?) of the older "black dragon" firm?

That's in USD. @zKars posted the CAD price.

In my black museum of leftover Works rally parts, I have a front strut that came to me described as a 'Monte Carlo' tarmac setting item. It carries Works part number Dymo tape labels 'Y0901-54302' and has the proper Works type Halda drive take-off. I will dig it out of storage and take some measurements.

I've been away on a trip to Japan, so a little late answering. Sorry. The 54302/54302/54010 etc etc prefixes on the stock & option strut components simply identify the part according to the Nissan parts numbering system, where 54 denotes front suspension section, 000 up denotes front springs, 200 up spring mounting parts, 300 up suspension crossmembers & 400 up suspension assembly parts. The Competition Department in Japan used these as suffixes in their unique (Works) part numbers, so I guess it makes sense that they correspond somewhat. I'm not sure that the E7220 Rally Option struts and springs are going to be much use as reference for you. I own a set and they have looooong tubes and looooong springs, putting the car up at 'Safari' type ride heights for max travel and ground clearance. They are oil-filled and also gas-charged, but I'd say they are a step below the Works type parts in sophistication and build quality. They were probably OK for a 'Clubman' type rally car in period, but my friend Kevin Bristow used them on his car 'OMT' (prepped in period by Old Woking Service Station) and found they they soon overheated on rough stages. Some photos of my set for reference:

Part three of the Works Rally Struts show-and-tell: Rear Struts I only have the L/H part number here, because the tape on the right strut has peeled off (or was removed): Y9821-55303. Rear springs are listed as Y9821-55020 2.98. Rear spring diameter is 12mm, and a height of 308mm. The Strut tube is slightly shorter than stock at 15.25", while stock tubes are approximately 16". The spring seat is also about 1/2" lower. In thinking about this - a lower spring seat means a slightly longer spring, but a shorter strut tube means less potential shock travel. As both the struts have the same construction and dimensions, I'd venture that the right strut p/n is Y9821-55302. The front tube spring seats are actually set about an inch higher than stock, with the strut tubes being approximately the same length.

Please NO! For the sake of the next guy that has to remove them! (ask me how I know...) I would also advise AGAINST 3M double stick as well. Instead get just some slim weatherstrip foam from Home Depot or Lowes (closed cell if they have it) and run it around the perimeter or just where you have leaks. It'll squish down to nothing where it needs to and fill the gap where it needs to. And it'll be easy to remove if necessary.