Leaderboard

FWIW, when I replaced the valve seals (which were fine) I used compressed air to hold the valves in place. On several cylinders I could hear air escaping somewhere at a pretty good rate. It wasnt coming up through the valves. I couldn't feel it through the dipstick but I didnt close off the PCV hose, so it may have been coming through there. At that point I knew swapping seals was a waste and the motor needed to come out. Pretty sure the issue is going to be rings, but I will know for sure pretty soon. Thanks for all the comments and support. @Patcon has offered to drive down and help me pull the motor. Great group here.

Many thanks for the seal pics, that makes it clear. Did you also use weatherstrip adhesive for the lip, or something more contemporary to glue it? Seems quite likely that is the reason for my water ingress. There is no rust inside, that is all the spare glue residue from whatever they spray up in there are the factory. The PO certainly never ever took anything apart. I did order new hinge seals, however it really doesn't appear that any water has come in through there. I may pour a little water into the hinge cup just to confirm it though. Those seals won't be here for a couple weeks and I'm doing the hatch seals NOW. I removed all the remnants of the main hatch seal & all the glue/foam residue all around the lip. I used xylene, which softens the glue & foam, makes it easier to remove. Still took 2 hours to get it to where it is now though Still need to clean out the remaining crud from the hinge inner boot. Looks like I'm going to be removing the hatch to finish this, there is some surface rust in the upper drip channel behind the hatch. Can't get in there properly with the hatch on I did redrill the metal strip & staple the scraper for the drivers side. I'll go with pop rivets on the pass side, but I need to get a good drill bit for the stainless.

The hatch has two seals - outer and inner. The outer seal is small and installs on the pinch weld seam aound the hatch. The top portion is usually bulb shaped to fit snugly against the hatch flange so rain is channeled to the sides and down to the slam panel. Your pics show this seal is missing. In my pic I also have bulb-shaped outer seal on the sides as well as the top. The rust you show inside at the hinge are suggests your hatch hinge boots are compromised and should be replaced. These plates are an important part of the hinge boot install. They fit between the hinge and the boot and prevent the boot from being distorted when the hinge bolts are tightened. Unfortunately the plates are not available as a separate P/N. They came to Nissan as an assembly with the OE boots. As to your squeegee strip install, pop rivets work very well to secure the rubber strip to the door trim. Space them about every 4". This is far easier than working wirh wire or attempting to re-use old staples. The same approach works well with the fuzzy strip at the top of the door panel.

I have been looking for a jack and wheel chocks for my 6/71 Z for a long time now, but I am not having much success. It was mentioned that the dates on these items are not necessarily close to the car manufacture date. I am curious to see how much they differ. If you still have your original jack and chocks (as best you know), can you have a look and post what you find? Just need the letters and numbers stamped into the base of the jack, and the letters or numbers stamped onto (ink) or in (indented) your wheel chocks and the month of manufacture of your car from the door tag. Thanks! Reference this thread for info on determining dates if you like:

I have a box of old jacks. Most arent in great condition, but I will check and see if I have anything close to 6/71.

Very unlikely they are related. Start a new thread on the fuel gauge, and I'll give you some tests to run.

@PatconCheers to you friend for helping Sir!

Today I finished my homework, summary of transmissions. For S30 series [F4W71A] 3.549 2.197 1.420 1.00 3.164 All except Europe and AUS (optional for HS30) Oct 1969 to Aug 1971 Sleeve type [FS5C71A] 2.957 1.858 1.311 1.00 0.852 2.922 JPN(S30 HS30 PS30), EUROPE, AUS Oct 1969 to Dec 1971 Flange type [F4W71B] 3.592 2.246 1.415 1.000 3.657 JPN (S30S GS30S S31S GS31S) Sep 1971 to Jun 1978 US & CANADA Sep 1971 to Nov 1974 Sleeve type 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 3.382 US & CANADA Dec 1974 to Jun 1978 Sleeve type [FS5C71B] 2.906 1.902 1.308 1.000 0.864 3.382 JPN(HS30 PS30) Jan 1972 to Aug 1973 Europe Jan 1972 to Jul 1976 AUS Jan 1972 to Jun 1978 Flange type (up to Aug 1972) Sleeve type (from Sep 1972) 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 0.864 3.382 JPN (S30 S31) Jan 1972 to Jun 1978 Europe Aug 1976 to Jun 1978 Flange type (up to Aug 1972) Sleeve type (from Sep 1972) [FS5W71B] 3.321 2.077 1.308 1.000 0.864 3.382 US & CANADA Aug 1976 to Jun 1978 Sleeve type Anyone can add or correct if you find something needed. Even the factory manuals have some errors! Kats

Good to hear that was glue on the inside and not rust. Installation of the outer hatch seal will be much easier with the hatch removed. Weatherstrip adhesive is the best product for these seals. Looks like you are making good progress.

I would do a cylinder leak down test before I take anything apart. At least this would give you idea of condition of lower end.

Hi, I just wanted to say the data of FS5C71B in the book is inaccurate. My red writing is just my idea, since FS5C71B has two types of ratio for the 1st and 2nd. Nice sportier gearing has E9500 for its related parts while the other has E9507. If you remember these numbers it will help you to distinguish which is a correct part for your FS5C71B when you shopping. By the way I am trying to summarize data of transmissions, it is very complicated! Kats

I would say you need to do a leak down test. That will clearly indicate where the blow-by is coming from. The longer you let it idle, the worse it will be, esp if it is or was also running rich & washing the cylinders. Leak down test will remove the doubt.

NO, you can't see bad rings on compression readings, the oil can be building a film and still give compression.

Okay, I'll start. On my 7/70 the chocks are 0G, (= 1970-July) and my jack is PFI, (= 1970-June-9). I bought and stripped a 12/70 parts car about 25 years ago and I believe these chocks were in that car when I got it, one still shows an inked stamp with what I think is 9G, (= 1969-July)

I'd adapt a clothes dryer vent hose (duct tape and something else) to the exhaust and vent hose fittings into a wall , window or door. I'd also buy a carbon monoxide detector. Many years of welding has taught me not to vent the exhaust into an oncoming breeze. Some of it will find it's way back in. venting to the side or down wind is best.