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Good luck I hope you are successful! I’ve broken a lot of bolts over the years, even titanium (when I was building airplanes). When I was serving the apprenticeship to be a truck mechanic I learned how to blow a broken bolt out of the hole for an exhaust manifold on an American V8 engine using an oxy acetylene cutting torch. Of course the cylinder head was cast iron, which is something that can’t be done with bolts in an aluminum head. And of course I’ve also been in your shoes, trying to remove steel bolts stuck in aluminum from corrosion. Not a fun time, to be sure. Even less fun when one breaks and you have to resort to left handed drill bits and “easy out” extractors. Patience pays dividends here. So go slow, stop if you’re unsure, go have a cup of coffee or a beer, then try again.

Attached some photos of a couple of rare original examples I have handled. Your repro example looks accurate, and even has the seam in the middle that was missed off in previous repros. Seems there was indeed a foam gasket on the inner fender flange, so you have done what the factory originally did:

Hi Chris, the left side is the same for all the other models. Mine was switched to a later one when the restoration was in progress because the original was bad shape. One day I visited Pierre when I had a free time in LA and I bought the early duct set with a metal ring. Oh, one more parts from the US, my Z432 has a clutch master cylinder from an early 240Z in the US. Z432 and early HLS30 (maybe up to 1971?) are sharing the same one. Kats

It’s a second hand Rebello 3.0. I haven’t tested the compression yet. I believe it’s stroked around with 3.18.

I'm no oil expert, but as I understand it, the general theory / consensus is there would be increased wear on the moving components like the crank bearings. Goes like this... The difference between the "detergent" and the "non-detergent" oils is the ability to suspend particulate contaminants in the oil. The automotive oils (detergent) contain additives that are designed to intentionally suspend particulate contaminants in the oil. The expectation is that those contaminants will be removed from the system and trapped in the oil filter. The non-detergent oils are used in applications (like your compressor) where there is no oil filter. The intention is that the particulate contaminants are NOT suspended in the oil, but instead sink to the bottom of the crankcase where they don't do any harm. Those contaminants are removed from the system when you change the oil, or every twenty years when you break the crankcase open and scoop them out manually. If you use detergent oil in something like your compressor, some of the harmful contaminants will be suspended in the oil and continuously circulated through the system where you don't want them. Better to let that stuff settle to the bottom than have it end up in your main and rod bearings.

In my case the headliner, both the vinyl and foam backing are in excellent shape. No damage to the vinyl and the foam (polyurethane?) is still fully intact and still has excellent flexibility, memory. The original headliner has a very unique fine grain and light "stippling" effect that I have yet to see on reproductions. Repos I've seen have almost no graining or to much with what looks like perforations. If someone makes one that is very close to OEM I may possibly go that route but for my restoration I am trying to use/re-use as many original parts and materials as I can. Here a few pics of my OE headliner showing the texture at different angles, it's hard to capture in pics.

They are for Z432, upper one is a spots option and the lower is a STD. And they are both hand made replica! To be looked like genuine one, they will be sand-blasted before installed. I can’t tell it if I weren’t told that they are replica. 500000 JPY ( 3800 USD) is not bad at all if someone desperately needs original style manifold. Originals are notorious for cracking at lower joint. I guess Z432’s dual exhaust system is heavy for the manifold to hold on. These replica use stainless steel which contains less iron than original so less rusty maybe. With this craftsmanship, we can have a L-series early exhaust front tube which has a three way junction made by two-piece pressed steel. Or entire system will be an easy job for them. How do purists people do for their old rusty exhaust system especially in overseas? Are there any good shops? I don’t find out yet so I just buy good originals when I saw them. Kats

Beautiful Alan! Here is a R, the owner thinks the same way like you. Kats

Wow! That is a very accurate replica, I didn’t expect much about it but Jay is selling nice one. Yes I agree with you, almost half of them are missing the duct. Mine was too, temporarily I put a replica then finally I managed to get the used one for my Z432. Maybe it is fragile as time goes by, people didn’t want to be bothered fixing the soft plastic and threw it away I guess. More rare item is a battery cover! I imagine mechanics forgot to put it back on after periodic maintenance or, owners chose a bigger battery which would not fit in the original small battery cover. Or, the frame has two metal clip to retain the cover in position. That clip is also fragile in long term use. About the screw, it is silver. I bought a batch of them long time ago if you need I will send it to you. Kats

The very unique arrangement of pin holes forming a circular pattern on the original headliner is not something I have seen in any replacements. There are pros and cons for going either direction, but I would like my headliner to be the original vinyl with those holes. That is great that yours is in such good condition CantechZ, and the pillar trim too.

Prepping the engine bay for Larry's new injectors at the head intake.

Glad to help. I've got factory A/C parts here available for purchase if you're interested. I'm a reasonable drive from you for something bulky, heavy, and expensive to ship. Wouldn't mind seeing one of your other project cars either. Send me a PM.

I have an earlier repro on my Pretend-R. Technically speaking I guess the genuine PZRs didn't need this part as they didn't have the air filter housing, air filter duct and airbox (running open trumpets) in the way, but I like it in any case.

Yes. This whole box: Goes here: Now... Since your car came from the factory without A/C, there is supposed to be a simple hollow duct box sitting there, but I don't know what they did for your aftermarket A/C.

But its your brand?? 🤣

If you aren’t using it very much, shut it down, and open the drain valve.

Thanks gents. I think I'm just going to remove the cover. I don't need to tempt fate right now. Hopefully the water pump bolts don't snap on me. @Yarb indeed - I will be doing that as I mentioned above 🙂 Seems easier to do it whilst the rad is out the way & I can get a puller on the crank pulley.

I plumbed a small ball valve off the bottom of my tank but I don't go out there enough and drain it