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I'm relaxing at home when I got a call from a number I didn't recognize. Since the caller left a voicemail, I played it. He told me he got my number from a friend. He has a 78 that he drove to the gas station, and it wouldn't "catch". He said another friend worked on the car, but that friend wasn't available. I called him back and found out that the engine would turn but wouldn't fire. Knowing that the friend who worked on the car is a very good Z wrench, I knew I had to run through possible esoteric solutions. "Beat on the ECU." "What?" "Hit the ECU with the side of your fist. Just bang on it a couple of times. Then try to start your car." "Where is it?" "When you're sitting in the car, it's by your left leg on the kick panel." "I see a piece of plastic there." "Yep. Hit it." "Oh my God. It worked." I told him he might need to replace the ECU. It looks like MSA is out of them for right now. When I told the story to another friend, he responded, "Percussive maintenance." What can I say? He's right.

Hey guys, just picked up a beautiful condition 73 240Z last week from a friend who's selling most of his classic cars. The Z has been upgraded with the 2.8L engine and 5-speed transmission and with some after market wheels that are about to be replaced next week with Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels and 215 55R 16 Kuhmo tires. Even though the car is in excellent condition I would like to have it inspected by a Z specialist here in the Los Angeles area. I've noticed the rear right side of the car is a little lower than the left rear. Perhaps saggy spring? Also Once the car is mechanically inspected I'll look to replace the seats and the mirrors with more OEM/time period pieces. In the meantime can someone recommend a good Z specialist in the Los Angeles area (not OC)? Thanks!

So I worked on the differential brace some more. I finally got the 3/8" steel from the machine shop a couple of weeks ago. He gave it to me free because it took so long. The sides had some beveling to them so I had to do some clean up first I checked a little more and then let Cody MIG it up for me. He was gonna TIG it but the MIG was close by so we went that route n it Cody wasn't pleased with the welds because the feed was being a little erratic, probably because the wire was dirty. I will do a little clean up on it and make it black.Should be fine for what I'm trying to do. I can post up the CAD file for the plate if anyone is interested

Given the engine is not stock and smog exempt due to age, you may want to look into removing the excess emissions plumbing. It makes for a less cluttered engine bay. You get bonus points because the old owner fitted a series-one air cleaner housing on your car 👍

I'd spend some time figuring out what you have and what shape it's in. Get the numbers of the cam, find TDC, get a proper set of timing marks installed, set your distributor correctly to TDC, measure cylinder pressures to see if they're all balanced, etc. Kind of seems like you just bought this Z with a modified engine and started driving it. How did the PO set up MS if he couldn't even use a timing light to see the timing? Your "doofer" is miles away from the damper. (p.s. apparently doofer is British for doohickey). Here's some stuff on what you probably have under the distributor cap. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/#tab-ywtm_78211 https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/

I turned the cam to see if there was any play and there isn’t any. I also turned the engine over by the crank bolt and that sound wasn’t there. I think it’s something different when it’s actually running.

I got 1 and 2 lobes like bunny ears then measured the valve lash on 1 and 2. When they were equal measurements that was TDC for me.

I ordered some new wheels and should have them in a week. Once they are mounted I’ll take the car into Sam Datsun and have him give the car a complete inspection. Thanks for the recommendation!

The rubber pads are 3x1.75” and 1/4 thick. There are matching indents in the tanks to show you exactly where they go. I do have some pads in the stash that are much thicker at 3/4” but I’m no help at telling you which model they are from. I do have a couple of 4-pad groups taped together that are all the 1/4” thick ones so that is the likely correct set for the 240 and early 280 tanks (75-76) that are the same form factor.

Thank you, I've actually just come down with some sort of flu/cold, but once I'm over it i will be sure to check that and update.

Along with the pads there's rubber strips between the tank and the metal straps that secure the tank. I think these strips and the pads effectively isolates the tank electrically from the body. I think that's why there's 2 wires (240Z) or 3 wires (280Z) for the fuel level sending unit.

Nice car. Interesting to see the engine was change to an L-28, but smog equipment from an L-24 has been retained. I would recommend Sam's Datsun in Winnetka to have a look at your car. He's one of the last of the breed mechanics that worked for a Datsun dealership during the period. He's priced fair and no gimmicks. https://samsdatsunsfv.wixsite.com/winnetka

Once upon a time, in a land far, far away, that time forgot, I had a basement, and an outbuilding, full of those. *sigh* It is little more than a memory now. I made a lot of money, but couldn't spend it on anything big, for fear of drawing the wrong kind of attention. But I did enjoy plenty of “the good things” in life, and I always tipped very generously.

Me too. It's my favorite house plant.

It is a sweet, pungent scent. The first time I encountered it I was barely 12 years old. I still like the fragrance of it.