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Actually, you can modify them yourself. Step 1: Remove from wrapper. Step 2: Insert in mouth. Step 3: Remove from mouth when desired reduced size is achieved.. Warning: Leaving in mouth too long will make them disappear. 😎

What are those? Lifesavers? You nut! Thanks for the pictures. I'm going to write to a guy and see if I can have them made.

Notice it has no emblem ('Datsun') on that left fender either. Possible damage repair? I do see the join line between the fender and headlamp cowl, but it is very faint. Possibly a lot of paint, and - as above - suggesting a repair? Largely due to that 1/71 Auto Sport article, '8D-420' has long been one of my dream cars. Big influence on the project I'm currently building.

Great to see an overhead engine shot of the left fender. I would love to have spent even just 30 minutes with this car.

Yes! Kanri number '8D-420', as shown in the January 1971 issue of Auto Sport Japan. Wonderful car! This time on 'Trade'/Test temporary license plates no less. Issued in Yokohama? Factory test car.

Hi , is this car the same car of Auto sport 1/71 ? Kats

I agree that the PZ-specific stand-off bracket was designed to hold both battery cables at that point (in order to route them away from the accel linkage, as you say). I see many stand-off brackets that are bent up and misshapen (probably because owners/mechanics were seeking access to the accel linkage) and the bracket needs to be in its original shape to route the cable properly. I have also seen variation in the cable earthing point (again, probably due to actions of owners/mechanics) so that will also change the routing... About that mystery third clamping point: How about the captive nut on the firewall which is right over the battery? I feel like it is ideally positioned to hold ONE battery cable as it comes off the battery terminal - the one furthest to the outside of the car on the left - but seems rarely used. Possibly because of different batteries being retro-fitted?

Another temporary option after a little filing.

I can't wait to see the end result of your efforts, Alan! Apologies for geeking out: Notice also on the previous photo you posted that the other fender has a "Fairlady Z" badge and no headlight covers originally, and then finally (at the Racing Show) what appears to be a "DATSUN" badge, covered headlight, and if i'm not mistaken, a tiny circle in the front of the scoop, indicating the possible presence of a defogger. And yet at this point, not yet having the front-facing headlight change. Also of note, is what appears to be clear lenses for the running lights. It's great to see how the development progressed. As to the left fender, with possible accident repair vs. intentional omission: I'd venture to say that both are possible. Perhaps the left side marker was omitted intentionally at one point, either before of after a possible fender-bender, just to see what it was like. With the dual-bulb driving light, One could easily rewire it to use one bulb for running light, and the second one for turn signal. (I'll tip my hand here a little bit, and mention the possibility that some Works harnesses may have used the 4-pin connector for the 2-bulb driving lights instead of the 3-pin, even though only one bulb was wired up, leaving the parking light unwired. But perhaps I'm overthinking it.)

So you'd say the date order is this? 1) Auto Sport pictures 2) Pictures above 3) Racing Auto Show pictures Also of note: I can't say if it has to do with the photo resolution, but the left light bucket is remarkably well fitted to the fender. There's definitely a cut line in later photos, so perhaps its a result of an overly generous paint application.

In the 1/71 Auto Sport feature, '8D-420' does not have the satin/matt black anti-reflective paint on the upper surfaces of the front fenders, bonnet and cowl. I'm guessing your photos show it at a later date? That oil filter looks very red. Special type? At one point the Works team were using orange FRAM oil filters (certainly during the 1971 RAC Rally here in the UK) but this doesn't look like a FRAM. Is the article from a 1971 issue of MOTOR FAN Magazine Kats?

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Certainly the bigger battery was standard on Euro & UK models too, so that captive nut was used for the battery frame. I have the same on my '70 Fairlady Z-L, and have fitted the larger size battery, so use the captive nut accordingly for the battery frame. It just looked to me like it could have been a candidate for another cable clamp point when using the smaller (Japan size) battery, which stands away from the firewall. I think you've got it! Noted accordingly.

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I'd get the plugs for the engine - a 78 280Z.

RE: rust. Yes, this came up later today in a discussion with my mechanic. There could be rust in the tank that has worked its way to the filters, and is restricting high-rpm fuel delivery. I never bothered to check it out prior to filling the tank with gas last week. I'll have to do some fuel flow testing. It's currently running an MSD ignition box which I needed to hastily install due to the last 3rd party CDI system failing just before it was due to be used in an article. I had considered that it may not be working properly, but I can verify the timing appears to be normal, and advance curve works as expected - identically to the KPGC10, which is on a different CDI system. The tach adapter is hopeless, and causes the tach to display too low - this is a fairly common issue with the technology, and I'll have to either tinker with it more, or more likely just discard it and install something else. Comically, right now I have the MSD box Zip-tied to the existing CDI bracket, so whomever is sitting in the passenger seat may get a big red brick landing on their toes if it wiggles loose- ouch! I'll do another run tomorrow and see if things improve. I'd guess that if there is a clog, high-end throttle response might deteriorate as a draw down the full tank of gas.

Hi , I don’t know much about GT-R , you are so lucky that you can compare your Z432 with your GT-R ! Stop pulling at 3000 rpm , ummm, my Z432 was terrible once because the gas tank was full of rust . Or I will check the ignition system , do they have the same igniters which is provided from Nissan original system ? The original Mitsubishi igniter box might not be working properly if the car doesn’t pull right performance . I had it six of them in the past , two of them were not working properly even they were NOS when I bought them. The air box has six trumpets in it , and it’s length is not so aggressive I think. But it is very good for street driving,Nissan engineers well considered of it . Your GT-R has different trumpets then it’s length matches for much sportier driving , then your GT-R go faster than your Z432. What I am feeling “ superior “ about the Z432 air box is, Z432 has the air filter box out of the engine bay , in front of the radiator. GT-R has it in the engine bay . Z432 ‘s S20 can inhale cold fresh air than that of GT-R , I believe it slightly provides additional output for the S20. But on the other hand , air flow is restricted and loses smoothness by the air box , so free air flow VS cold fresh air , please someone enlighten me ! Kats

I received the other "mama bear" door seal today and got it installed on the passenger side. It's a little different from the driver's side, but you'd have to look close to notice. Here's a link to it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NELWRJ4 Now I have to drive the car to see if it is better than the Kia Sportage seals on the 260Z. (I think it is.)

Doing a little more sorting - car has not really been used since 2010, other than once around the block every now-and-then. I've got an annoying issue with what I think is fuel delivery. A prior owner put Spanish Webers on (my least favorite variant), and the engine basically stops pulling at 3000RPM, so I suspect it's running slightly lean, and is also in need of different jetting. Another potential culprit is the airbox - any experience (anecdotal or otherwise) on what removing the airbox does for higher-end response? I ask, because this engine is carbureted and jetted identically to the KPCG10, right down to the emulsion tubes, but the KPGC10 doesn't suffer from the same lathargy. Compression great on both engines, and same exhaust manifold. The only real difference is that the Z432 has a stock airbox fitted, and the KPGC10 does not. I suppose I can just unbolt it and see what happens.