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So, today I did a swap to a stock-color tail light panel on my 1971 240z. I was able to pick up a great restored panel from our classifieds and now I have one of each color. Since my panel was installed with plastic rivets (just for this occasion) it was a 20 minute swap. When I had my car painted yellow, quite a long time ago, I asked the guys to paint the tail light panel the same color as the body. I knew it never looked right, but, it was something I wanted at the time. Now that I'm a bit older, I wanted to see what a stock color would look like. Here's the difference. What do you think?

Your Clutch Disc is most likely rusted and stuck to the flywheel. Put it out of gear and start the engine, warm it up and charge the battery. After its warmed up shut it off. Push the car out on the street, put it in 1st gear and start the engine (with the car in gear). Get it rolling about 15 to 20 mph - push the clutch pedal to the floor, at the same time you give it some gas and pull the Emergency Brake HARD! (to stop the rear wheels from turning - while keeping the engine running). That should break the clutch disc free of the flywheel. Might have to do it a couple times. When it breaks free you'll feel the clutch pedal regain some resistance (feel normal).

Subtly perhaps, but if you look closely at your photos, I believe your cat has declared the winner.

Friday the 29th of may 2020.. the car got painted this 3th time in the booth completely. (exept some small front parts they do next week.. headlamp sugarscoops and lower front..) Damn what a load of prepwork it was! Loads of sanding cleaning and lets not forget the work we had putting in the doors, hood and hatch the right way and not make a scratch.. good news, didn't made one scratch or anything! (took -as always- my time to do it right i guess..?) Here are the pic's.. Ready for PAINT !!! (after covering the hole in the left window and the wheels ofcourse.) Then.. picasso got to work.. haha those painter jokes.. sorry the paintbooth windowcleaner was sick.. ? And a few hours later.. All the paper and special masking material removed.. Now we leave it a few days allowing the paint to cure. A few pic's of the paint with a flashlight on it.. but in the sun it's different.. ( that pic in a few weeks i hope.) near the doorhandle.. At home busy with some parts, like these rear window stainless parts.. I got three sets of those and none is perfect so take the best of them all to make one set. (3th from left is upside down, you can see the u-shaped edge that go's into the rubber.. we need some grease!!! ?)

I agree with Steve. If you bend it down, more toward the bottom of the tank you'll get an empty reading much sooner. This is not a Z tank but for you to get an understanding of what I'm saying.

Much better in the stock color.

@Patcon - glad you found something that may work. I would have been digging through my stash looking for a busted balancer and recycling it for the purpose at hand. I hope the key way widths are the same between what you ordered and the L-series.

I have to agree with Guy.

Looks much better in the stock color IMO Mike.

... and the new fuel sending unit from Zcar Depot arrived this afternoon and it's installed and working!! Because the reserve fuel light had stopped working on my original unit I will confess that last week I had tried installing a fuel sender I purchased from MSA last September when they just got them for the '77-'78 280Zs but one of the contact rivets snapped off when I slid the connector onto it. Very bad quality! Not only do the MSA units come with different type connectors that you have to splice in after cutting the stock connector from the sender, the quality of the riveted contacts on my unit was much less than adequate and failed miserably. Fortunately it happened before the final stage of installation and not after everything was closed up again. Additionally the unit is more than twice the cost of the @zcardepot.com unit I just received which plugged right in and is working flawlessly. I spoke to James at MSA who's always very helpful and he said he would talk to their manufacturer about the problem but electrical parts cannot be returned, much less after 30 days. He will get back to me on it but I might be looking at a total waste of $200! If they at least repair it I will keep it as a spare or pass it on to a fellow forum member in need. Anyways...I designed a "wrench" out of 2" PVC pipe that enabled me to very easily re-install the lock ring over the sender and that makes the job a piece of cake. By using my Dremel, I made 4 slots on the inside edge of a 6" straight piece of PVC so that the 4 crests that jut out of the lock ring would fit into those slots. A 90 degree elbow at the other end of the straight piece of pipe provides easy rotation of the lock ring in either direction. I used my original lock ring since it was in great shape and lightly sanded and coated with anticorrosive bed liner paint the area around the access port. Pics attached. Thanks again everyone for all the good references regarding the @zcardepot.com sender.

Final resting place.......

Lee Harvey, you are a madman. When you stole that cow, and your friend tried to make it with the cow. I want to party with you, cowboy. If the two of us together, forget it. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083131/quotes/?tab=qt&ref_=tt_trv_qu