The polished valve Matt posted is the test mule, but I have since completed one full set of intake valves.
I started at the drill press, spinning each valve to check for head run-out and wobble. If they checked out (and all of them did) I weighed and measured each one. Eventually, we had two sets of valves fairly consistent in length and weight. We also have a third set but the measurements are not so consistent.
The polishing work started on the combustion faces, spinning the valves at about 650 RPM while using a Dremel tool and grinding stone against the direction of rotation, to smooth away the casting marks. Working with a gentle, steady pressure it only took a few minutes to clear the marks from the valve.
I followed the grinding with 80-grit abrasive cloth until the grinding stone marks were no longer visible; then moved to successively finer wet-dry papers until I had the finish I wanted. A small bit of WD-40 on the paper helps, and it didn't take more than fifteen-minutes to polish each valve's combustion face.
When I was done with one set of six valves I moved to their transition at the valve stem base. Measuring often until the transition blended smoothly, I used a very fine file to carefully turn down the neck of the transition. After this I polished the head and stem transition the same way I did the combustion face, but stopped at the 600-grit finish. Next, I'll re-face each valve with the factory angles, and dress their tips.
Admittedly, the mule is way over the top, and 600 grit paper will achieve a very nice finish. Next I plan to experiment to get a swirl pattern on the port-side of the valves, but the combustion chambers are polished so I want the combustion face of the valves polished, as well.
More photos to follow, but I'll let Matt do that.