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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/23/2018 in all areas

  1. Well those rails don't carry the weight of the engine as much as they transfer it to the shock towers that are directly inline, the engines weight is taken by the springs and tires for the most part. With a triangulated shock tower brace on the top you have a very ridgid box. Can someone spend too much time under a Z? ?=
  2. Excellent, thank you. I will post some pics of the differences in the guide tracks for later reference. I'm pretty sure I knew which was which, but I think I have confirmation now. I'll wait for Steve to get his 73 pics taken to be sure. I want to start a new topic group called something like "One of these things is not like the other" and then post definitive pictures of various items (like windows, regulators and doors) across all of the years for later reference. Then I won't have to ask silly questions anymore. Or at least less often
  3. Thanks Mark. No seems problem is occassional misfire that got worse. But anyway its all coming back to me. Sanded the distributor cap and rotor points then drove it like a thief.. voila problem gone. Looking to complete the tuneup before the planned rebuild woohoo. Should I stay with this mallory setup? 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler
  4. The topic of Z homologation has come up before — this site has a number of documents that may be interest: https://historicdb.fia.com/sites/default/files/car_attachment/1486676401/homologation_form_number_3023_group_b.pdf https://historicdb.fia.com/search?key=datsun&type=car
  5. A tuneup can't hurt. Sometimes minor issues become more noticeable at steady engine speeds. Seems like a fuel issue would get worse after it started. I know that in the old days we would adjust our plug wires to avoid crossfire caused missing. Your distributor cap looks very clean on the inside, to Patcon's comment, but you can get shorts on the outside also, from dirt and grime. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor might do it. Good luck.
  6. Aim for 14 at idle (richer is smoother idle but it stinks) Aim for ~15 to 16 at cruise Aim for 13 at WOT (12.5 to 13.5 range is fine)
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