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I am selling my time capsule. This was recently found locally from its original owner and was in his garage for 41 years. It has original window sticker, paperwork, and is in amazing rust free condition under original paint! https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/cars-for-sale/datsun/280z/2029317.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_-bhBus8Do

Looks like Z Car Garage will be showing off the Jenvey FI system at SEMA -- this installation is on the OS Giken head as well From their facebook page:

I clicked the links and it just re-opened the thread. Not sure why. Here's an attempt at a fix. Edit - took out my links to shrink the page since cygnus fixed his.

Nice job. Wish I had more time for projects like this. Have the equipment but not enough time. Stupid paying job gets in the way most of the time. Ooops......time for me to give them their lump of coal!?

So... based on my own experience I'll offer this. I am not a professional and, in fact this was the first time I ever painted a car. Single stage CAN be cut and buffed to remove minor, um, imperfections, but from what I have read, base + clear coat can be a little more fixable. For example, if a gnat lands in your base coat, you can fix it before you clearcoat and no one will know the difference. Same deal in the clear, if that gnat lands in it now, you can cut the clearcoat and not worry about burning through you color.

Here's a link to the thread where we were discussing such matters. My photo links are dead because Photobucket SUCKS!!! but there are some other pics in there that still work: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/56185-how-do-i-hate-rebuilt-components-brake-booster/

I'll provide a different opinion.... If you are painting the car "just to sell it" and I were the buyer, then I would probably prefer that you not paint it at all. That way, not only could I choose the style and color of paint I prefer, but I could also verify the integrity of the underlying metal instead of having potential issues hidden under fresh paint only to have them become visible shortly after purchase. The last two cars I bought were painted by the PO with the express intention of selling the car and I would have paid more for both of them if they hadn't been painted in the first place. So it all depends on who you're after. Maybe offer the car at two prices? Painted, or as it stands?

Ah. it's a 280ZX. I believe the tagline from Nissan was, "born to be a parts car".

#35 My filler cap for my ATL fuel cell is in the back. Have to lift the hatch. fabricated an AL cover with a lid. Have to lift the latching lid to fill ? Eventually may fab a filler using the existing filler door location. much cooler looking and easier to fuel up. ?

This is the thread. I will copy and paste from your last post. Add what you like...

And just as heavy. Looks like something from Briggs & Stratton.

Had a great weekend working on the zcar Got the front suspension torn apart and media blasted and coated with POR 15 / minus the steering rack. Will have todo some more research on how to move forward on that. All nuts and bolts zinc plated along with some other goodies. Transmission cleaned / polished and sprayed with caliper paint. It was getting dark so pic didn’t turn out that well. Dialed in my garage too haha Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I installed the hatch glass this weekend. I also polished the stainless steel hatch molding and inserted that into the rubber sans corner pieces (which are in my storage unit). I loosely installed all of the cloth wrap hose for the fuel line. Will do final install once the clamps come in.

Here’s three that I did that way.....

There's another funky bend that I had trouble with. I used a 1/2" brass pex fitting to make the sharp bend.

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I am in the same boat as you, I have my car apart, all the glass out and some of the body work done. my car is relatively rust free and no damage. I will be doing a color change which is probably a mute point since it is so far apart. I was estimated 5500$ today for a base coat clear in red. I thought it would be more like 3500$ but I was wrong. The problem is finding a shop willing to take on a job like this. This guy said his shop was slow so he could squeeze me in right now. Most collision shops don't want to deal with this kind of work. I know the 5500$ job would look really good because i know the guy but man that hurts. That price was based on preprimer body work-atleast 12 hours. Then high build primer and blocked--twice. Then a special clear coat. he knows i want close to show paint. Godd luck