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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/10/2017 in all areas

  1. Good find. The injectors, afm and tranny are worth more than the 600. If its original, it will have the N42 head as well. Before july has the early gas tank, which are getting harder to find. Just ask wheee about his search for a good one.
  2. End of travel = your pedal stop. Must be set after any throttle adjustment. Must not bend thy throttle blades nor leave HP on the table. Cable travel is determined by how far the tip of the pedal moves away from the firewall as you press the pedal. This is then converted to rotation at the carb trottle blades by some form of an arm that protrudes from the throttle rod. It is the distance from the center of that rod out along that attached arm that determines how the fixed cable travel is converted to the correct rotation angle. The shorter that arm, the more rotation you get for a given cable length pull. Takes a little trial and error. That is why most of these arms have multiple holes along its length. And FINALLY someone asks for my secret source of those sweet metal metric ball ends. i hate to reveal my sources but.... https://www.midwestcontrol.com/part.php?id=3261 And while I'm spilling the beans, here... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Throttle-Linkage-Arms,1911.html?OriginalQuery=91018400
  3. Yes, the 240Z connectors Are still available but unless they are crimped correctly and tight, they don't like to fit the larger red/white (high beam wire) very well. Ive actually done it to a few 280Z's but had to drill out the connector where the red/white was to go to make room for larger gauge wire. But again, a true Headlight upgrade harness will likely NEVER be removed, so going through the trouble of attaching weather-pack or 240Z style connectors, is Almost pointless.... Just my 2cents Dave
  4. the adjuster only ratchets up IF there is excessive movement of the shoes, typically due to wear. If its working right you can put the drums on pretty loose and just operating the brakes either by the e brake or pedal, the ratchet mech will take up the excessive spacing. once the shoes are adjusted, the ratchet cant tighten anymore since it requires movement of the shoes to operate. as far as the e brake, I am guessing it just needs to be adjusted under the tunnel to take up some of the slack.
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