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You guys are awesome....I love your creativity.....grannyknot, I'm impressed....Careless...where is the final shot of your first Resto? I know how you feel....once restoration is done, you're ready for the next.....the fun is in making something ugly beautiful again. How's this for a before and after.....

Everyone told you to do this. Did you do it yet?! Nothing will change until you change something!

You gotta remember the stripped shell of an early Z is only about 550lbs. Remember this getto contraption I slapped together? I spun that car hundreds of times over 4-5 months. To get the car truly balanced for spinning either the front or the back needs to be mounted off set 5"-6" higher than the bumper mounting point, the car is a little top heavy. Now that I look at your rotisserie I can see you have already done that. Is this car #2? So the first on is done?

I agree with Rossiz. I would keep the factory EFI...especially over a Holley conversion. I have built and Raced Holley carbs for many, many years, and I would never switch back to them over a factory EFI system. Conversion to twin Su's or Triple Webers/Mikuni's sure. But a Holley 4 bbl would be a step backwards IMHO. The Holley is not going to like being perched above a stinking hot exhaust manifold... the Holley float bowls are even more sensitive to fuel peculation than the factory SU's. A really good heat shield and phenolic base isolator are a necessity. The installation position of Holley's with that manifold is 90 degree's to their design position and this can cause float level issues under hard cornering. Mixture distribution to #1 and #6 carbs is less than ideal as well. This picture shows the improper " sideways" mounting and the lack of a heat shield. Bad design. Holley aftermarket needle and seat are infamous for sticking open, causing massive flooding with raw fuel dripping out of the carburator. Use of Genuine Holley Needle and seats along with a good fuel pressure regulator will help alleviate the sticking N&S problem. However, the modular float bowl design of Holley 4150/4160 carbs always tend to have some full drip from the float bowls. Right on to the hot exhaust manifolds or header Not good.

I'm not sure why my wants are being questioned. No holes, no cracks and good bolts. If I wanted to fix something, I would fix mine.

I got the hood gas springs in the mail yesterday and installed everything today. In this thread, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91439-hood-strut-conversion-for-s30/?hl=zraceproducts I copied what Litman did in post #10. I used two 4477N10 gas charged lift supports from these guys, http://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/strong-arm-4477n10-gas-charged-ball-socket-lift-struts-supports-10176n10w/ The 43lb gas springs hold the hood easily in any position higher then 16" from closed, lower then that and the weight of the hood takes over and starts to close by itself. I cut off the bits that were used to hold the torsion springs onto the hinges and welded the ball to the hinge pin.