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i just enjoy working on my car, and getting it set up just right by myself with simple tools and some ingenuity makes for an awesome saturday in my opinion. when i was a kid my dad taught me to be a fearless tinkerer - he promised me that as long as i paid close attention when taking something apart, i would always be able to put it back together again. he was taking apart the toaster on the kitchen table (on a newspaper, of course) to fix the auto-up mechanism and he showed me how to group fasteners by function, recognize wear marks on mating parts and put sub-assemblies into separate piles. i was probably 6 at the time. i asked him where he learned how to fix a toaster - he smiled and said it was the first time he'd ever seen the inside of one. i tore apart every toy, old clock, broken camera, etc. that i could get my hands on just to try and see if i could put them back together again. probably a pretty common story w/a lot of folks on this site i imagine. it's a huge point of pride/satisfaction to be able to work on and improve a simple mechanical device - for me, anyway. that's why i have a 38 yr old car. sure, it's cool to look at and fun to drive, but truth is i get just as much joy out of fixing and modifying it. and i know my dad would be proud of me for stringing the front end the way he taught me when i was in high school.

Hi everyone I want to apologize and explain to the members that have been patiently waiting for their parts. My wife Kathy has been very ill and has been in ICU. We thought everything was improving until a test came back that put everything into doubt. Now she is being moved to the main hospital to undergo more testing. As soon as life starts to return to normal I'll get back on the parts. Thank you everyone for your patience and please remember Kathy in your prayers. Mark

If I'm brutally honest with myself, this statement describes where I've been with the car since I bought it. I've been assuming it would be one or two easy things to fix, and I'd be driving it. That's what's frustrated me. I just need to get past that and be methodical.

Rossiz that's exactly how I was raised! Pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be fine. Now my Dad is 76 and takes things apart himself but has a hard time getting them back together, call Cliff he'll figure it out! Makes me mad sometimes but he's taught me more than most Dads do so I owe him big time. Looking at parts on our cars, the shiniest side goes against something. That's my favorite!

Well said. Once I started taking stuff apart, I couldn't stop. Now I not only want to know... I simply HAVE to know. But whatever works for any individual... If you want to take your car to a shop, then more power to ya! If you want to try it at home, that's great too!

You have prayers for Kathy...and wisdom for the doctors...

BTW... caster on the front is adjustable using washers between the TC rod and the first big washer and compensating for that thickness when you tighten down the 17mm nut on the backside of the TC rod mount. You can also adjust rear toe slightly using brass shim stock between the inner LCA bushings and the front body mount and the rear transverse link mount. Camber is adjustable up the .5 degrees on all 4 corners if you slot the strut tower mounting holes.

Here are the two different style AFM's. The main difference is the Fuel pump switch. There are some other small differences in the AFM body like extra webbing on the outside, but I don't think that make any significant difference in functionality. Models with switch: 22680-N4202SV - up to july 75 22680-N4210 - Aug-75 to Jul-76 22680-N4800 - Aug-76 to Jul-77 Models without switch: FED: 22680-N4211 From Aug-78 CAL: 22680-N4801 From Aug-78 280ZX 22680-P6600 I don't know what the difference is between the two FED and CAL models. Unfortunatly the models before Aug-77 don't have the Nissan part numbers on the AFM. The stickers come from JECS and will have a number similar to this: Type: A31-625-000 Serial nr.: 1X21 Engine size: L28 Somewhere after Aug-77 they started using the Nissan part numbers as well on the stickers.

A: Its the lower grill centre support above the centre valance panel and two horn mounting brackets for the pre August 76 280Z. Or B: None of the above. I posted some photos of the differences between the pre Aug 76 and the later style brackets here Its about post 18 I think. The posts don't have numbers anymore.

Well, tonight was a bust! As soon as I get the car out of the garage (after prepping dinner and kids for bed), I hear a passerby yell from across the street "dude! Is that a 240Z?!" 30 minutes later, and there was no possibility of getting anything done. About that punched mark, the FSM says to line it up with slits in the U joint, but I don't see anything that looks like that on the column. They aren't referring to the steering coupler U joint in the engine bay, are they? Or just leave it at 12:00?

Oh it's still happening, just trying to get the 1970 Z finished and ready for sale in the spring, when that is gone I'll have some money and space to work on the ///MZ. I was just looking at this lovely 240Z, http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/02/os-giken-power-americas-exotic-240z/ I'm having a hard time believing those numbers, 376hp, 281 ftlb torque at rear wheels from a 3.3L with carbs. Granted, you have a team of very talented guys and probably a bottomless budget and I suppose the torque number could be accurate but the hp sounds a bit puffed up. This engine that I'm using is the same configuration with 3.5L and FI through 6 independent TB and could get near that hp without a turbo. Rossiz, these pics of the OBX limited slip diff are for you, I had to disassemble it and clean up the hardened on lube they use at the factory, flip the gears 180 degrees and replace the soft cone washers but it's already to install in the R200 diff now. Chris

Also the UPS man dropped these off for me.... Cant wait to get them installed!