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I saw the TV special they did for Ron Pratt's collection. If you listen real closely he gives an indication the collection was sold to fund his passion for vintage planes. I don't think the selling of Ron's collection is necessarily the single indicator the market is down. Yes, BJ's revenue is down, I do not think they will go hungry or stop doing auctions. Overall, I think a lot of buyers finally have what they want. Detroit muscle cars, as cool as they are, they are not rare. Every auction has no shortage of them and to be honest, after awhile, the excitement fades and prices reflect it. Truly rare and unique cars will always hold their value but another '64-68 Mustang, another 1st Gen Camaro, another Chevelle is just that, another car. Cars like vintage Ferrari's and Lamborghini's continue to appreciate. More people are buying up nice examples of models from the 80's and 90's now, just look at Countach and Ferrari 308/328 prices. Air cooled Porches, same thing, just going up. Will these cars ever hit a cap, probably but no one knows when. All the big pre-war stuff, I think it is beautiful but I am no expert so I cannot comment. Since this thread is about classic Z prices, I will give me .02. Thanks to all the media outlets, car websites, magazines, and the release of new cars that remind people of the classic Z's (FR-S/BRZ) there has been a constant spot light on the Z cars for the past several years. Just looking at 240z's, from a collector stand point, there are a lot of them out there. Which is good because at any given time there is something out there for every level of Z buyer, from pristine restored cars, to low mileage originals, to very nice drivers, to projects, and everything in between. Stock/Stock-ish cars and tastefully modified cars will always do well in the market. For a clean 240z that is stock and well maintained but not necessarily restored is a $10K - $15K car all day long depending what part of the country you are in. Truly restored cars start at $22K and seem to cap around $30K with a few outliers that have been bought at auction. Just average cars needing some work but could at least be driven home within reason, $4K - $8K. Of course every car needs to looked at up close, consider rust and other issues, changes that are bolt on vs. permanent, everything else that goes with buying a 40 year old Japanese sports car. Things like one owner, low VINs, and popular colors can add a premium to prices across all conditions. The great thing about classic Z's is that unlike so many other vintage cars, they can be driven and regularly. They can keep up with modern traffic and they don't shout "look at me" as a lot of other vintage cars do on the road.

I bought my car last May for $25K then imported it to the UK, I think all in it stands me at around £20K sterling, I've put tripple weber carbs on it since it arrived too, also although my car had been restored the paint work isn't as it should be so I've booked it in to be repainted this March, here in the UK there's a lot of discussion on 240Z prices, they were £10K for a long time but restored cars are being advertised for upto £40K, there was a classic car show on TV here last year which said " 240Z, always a cool car, they were £10K now they're £25K, buy one now, from a dry state while you can, mark my words, they will be £50K cars" theres still much conversation over here on LHD imports vs RHD UK cars, the truth is a dry state car will always be in better structural condition than any UK car, I know I've had one restored, in my opinion 240Z's in Europe cars fetch much more than cars in the USA.

After I thought about this some more I wanted to add one important note. All Z owners need to make sure your cars are insured appropriately. I don't want to start a discussion of which carrier is the best or trade war stories but if you do not have real coverage for your car you need to get it. Some companies require an appraisal to get a value like the owner wants. If so, spend the money and get it. A few hundred dollars now and few hours of your time is worth the investment. God forbid something happens to your car but in the event it does, at least you get a check to help replace your car. Our cars are going up in value, make sure your insurance coverage follows.

Im guessing you mean a type "B" transmission out of a 280Z or a 2+2 which is commonly known as the Wide ratio FS5W71B. The ZX Close ratio is a nicer spread, but you will find first is very tall and slow off the line it you couple it to a 3.54 diff. They work better with a 3.70 or 3.90.

45 years as a senior electronics technician here, that battery symbol is the same one that has been used for a battery for over a hundred years.

Seems like you're working with more wires than you need to. The "match box" is just taking the place of the points, so you really only need to deal with the distributor. The negative side of the coil needs to be attached to one terminal of the match box (not sure how they're labeled), and the positive side needs to stay attached to the black-white wire, but with an extra branch going to the other terminal of the matchbox (the extra power wire to the match box is because the module needs its own power, unlike the points). And the distributor body itself needs a good ground. You really shouldn't need to mess with the other wires to get the ZX distributor to work right. Then, if you want to remove the ballast resistor, you would need to connect other wires together, that also attach to the positive side of the coil.