Leaderboard

I went ahead and ordered a new slave cylinder and a SS braided hose while I was at it.

Tip of the Week: Replace the grit in your media blasting bucket after approx 10 filter/recycles max.... After about 25 filter/recycles, I am now working in a black cloud of grit dust that is obscuring all vision and blasting efficiency has been reduced to 20-30% at best.... I will be picking up new grit tomorrow!

Not very pretty but here is the header Z-Ya and I got with the rest of Bob Sharp Racing parts a few years back. The header studs on #1 & #6 are too big so they are hanging there just for the picture. Two 3 pipe collectors with tabs and springs funnel the flow back to the dual trumpets in the rear. It looks more like a prototype than one that was actually used. The welding in some places seems to have been done with old wire coat hangers on very thin metal using a bunch of truck batteries. I have to ask JR Mitchell if this was made at the track in an attempt to get the car back up and running. The #5 will hit the steering shaft if you haven't altered the engine mounts to move it over about 3/4-inch to the right. That helps put some weigh over to the right front tire as well

I took the basic facts I could find and broke them up. Overall, things don't seem terrible. But you seem to be reacting quickly and dramatically to relatively minor issues. You've had the engine for quite a while, with its various problems, but it does start, and run, and drive. You're probably very close to getting it running well, IF you can resist the urge to make major changes. You're about to spend much more money and replace a bunch of parts, because, apparently, the engine stalled a few times after it warmed up. Your description looks like you sit watching while the engine RPM go up and down, at idle, then the engine dies. That's not much. You have an engine idle problem. Did you set the timing or did the mechanic? Do you have vacuum advance connected? If so, is it on a parted vacuum source or direct to manifold? Have you adjusted the carbs at all, for idle performance. If I had your problem, I would get all of my diagnostic tools connected to the engine, start it up, and wait until it warmed up and things happened. Watch the timing, fuel pressure, etc. Try to keep it running using the throttle when the idle starts to go up and down. All you have now is "it dies while I played with the radio, it dies at a stop light, and the gauges don't work very well. Even the new oil pressure senders have been known to give low readings at idle, so a view with the engine revving a bit would help. Just not much quality info to worth with.