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I wouldn't mind going back to the 70's ! I mean have things really gotten better with smartphones and the internet.. people are like zombies these days. Where's the social contact ?

Sounds like what my mother in law said to my wife....

Before everybody gets too worried, I suggest we allow Jai to bring her car over to my house. I should have enough free time next month to accommodate her. Right now, a 70 hour week is a short work week for me. I would like to control the number of variables and eliminate problems.

Randy Jaffe brought his BRE tribute car to Caffeine & Octane recently. He has been going into excruciating detail trying to capture the essence of BRE's 240Z. This includes hiring sign painters to paint the numbers and sponsor information on the car to replace the vinyl decals he started with. He took his car out to JCCS this past summer and obtained John Morton's signature on the replica helmet.

Lately I have begun to fit the front valence and bumper. This is a 280z but will have 240z bumpers.

I am starting a new thread for my restoration. I'll link to other work I have done. I didn't like the title of the other one and the typo annoyed me. I have finished with the driver side door and light scoops. The passenger side scoop was an ebay acquisition that needed a lot of love. Too bad I don't have a before picture. Enjoy!

If anyone is interested in reproduction tool pouches, tool bin liners or later model 1st generation shift boots, I have made up some that are pretty close to the originals. The material on the bin liners and tool pouches are not like the originals but look very nice and match the early shift boots, e-brake boots and pigtail covers that I already made. The bin liners are $25 a set, the tool pouch is $25 and the shift boot is $35. All prices include shipping. These are all handmade and I believe are of the same quality as the other items. Hopefully these photos come thru O.K. If anyone needs more info. or would like to have one of these items, let me know. Bryan

True that..

Thanks guys. The car is pretty insanely clean to begin with(body was fully restored in 2010), so not to much work needed in the engine bay to get it that clean. But,there was an exhaust manifold leak and the head gasket leaking oil, so that created a bit of grime everywhere. I actually did get a new trans insulator. I put that on the trans mount and cleaned up the whole thing this weekend too. I just bought the K&N pump from MSA. Gonna wire that in and find somewhere to mount it this weekend. Talked to the trans shop this morning. They haven't touched my trans I told them I really want it by this weekend. So, we'll see. I'd rather put the engine/trans in together, so I can align them outside the car...plus I don't know if I have enough clearance on my jack stands to put the trans in from the bottom.

One of these day, I hope to get to that.

You might throw a fire extinguisher in the red car. Right under the front of the driver's seat is a good spot.

What's the condition of the engine itself ? How many miles ? Does it use oil ? Sounds more like leaking valves to me, and bad or worn piston rings. Backfiring through the carb or exhaust can be an ignition timing problem, or leaking valves. The carbs can run to lean or to rich, but if the engine is in good condition it should not backfire..

When I have to bring a metal beam back from Home Depot, I generally strap it on the roof. But I guess this works, too. Dennis

if the fuel system is not venting properly, you could run lean - if she dies, after checking the fuel pressure then loosen the gas cap and see if the "whoosh" happens again and if that helps her re-start. a simple test, costs nothing... the fuel-soaked gravel, pointing to fuel leaks are worrisome, as the fuel injection system is at a fairly high pressure and a pin-hole leak from a loose fitting or cracked hose can squirt a bunch of fuel quickly. please, please don't check with matches! s30 driver and i were working on his car right before he left for a long trip and just wiggling his fuel rail caused the injector hoses to crack (they were old) and it was spraying fuel all over the place. the fuel leak may or may not have anything to do w/the stalling, as the pump may generate more flow/pressure than the leak, but it's still something that needs to be addressed. if i recall from early posts, your fuel hoses have been replaced by a previous owner - the hard lines come up the body on the passenger side right under the battery, and many have found corrosion on them due to leaky batteries over the years - worth a check.

Charles, I've seen that lighter color before when I stripped mine to bare metal. I believe it is a primer for the body.

Yes, it is. Then it had the vinyl decals, and Randy didn't have the helmet, yet. The way he's going, you'll need to take a new set of photos.

Thanks. I'm ruling out a drive train problem as well as a serious fuel leak. Anyone, The one-way? valve in the filler cap. Could an intermittent malfunction in it cause the stall and no re-start condition? And if so could could the problem be fixed by loosening the cap and then starting the engine? Easy to check, the next time it won't restart. Just sittin and a thinkin.

Mark, from my brief time behind the wheel of Jai's car, I didn't notice anything peculiar about the clutch/master, though I have suggested that I flush the hydraulics with clean fluid for her. And to clarify, I have had problems in the past with my 73 where the clutch was engaging with the pedal to the floor. Reverse tended to grind, too. I don't recall any problems with getting into reverse with her car.

That R & R that I described was using the rafters and a come-a-long. I just used a couple of 2x4x8's perpendicular to the rafters. Worked great. I also used the same method for a small block Chevy, no trans.The rafters groaned, a lot, but it did work. Yup, drive line is last but it's easier to install as you lift the rear of the trans into place. Start aligning mounts and installing loose bolts at the engine front & work your way back. The install is not that difficult. Well, at least when I was younger it wasn't difficult. The height of the car was always the problem in tight quarters for me. No vertical clearance? Hang the engine in the engine bay and then jack the car up to it. When I was 25 it was about a five hour job to get the car back on the street running. These days, probably twice as long. Regardless, if you can get the height of the car dialed in, there is a lot of room to work around the engine and trans.

I have a new issue; 4 speed MT, It has become difficult to shift into reverse, feels really stiff. I did a search but didn't find anything that was consistent with my problem. The problem doesn't get bettter as the car warms up. It does't grind just really stiff, no problem with any other gear. I recently changed the transmission fluid to Redline MT90 as there seemed to be many recommendations for this oil for the early Datsun 4 speed tranny. I don't know what the PO had been using, could this switch be causing the issue? Thanks, Steve