Leaderboard

Sean Dézart, in and around Zs for 26 years now, current President of the French Datsun club (with nearly 1300 members - not all active of course), previous Dutch Z club member for 4 years and before that Chairman and events organiser of the UK Z club. Around 4 years ago I discovered that nobody was marketing reasonably priced s-steel exhausts so I set to it. Yes, there was a make and I was in contact with Judy at Stahl but they stopped and their header was already $900 before shipping and yes, there is Kameari and Fujitsubo but, a) their exhaust range is limited I feel and it all costs the donation of a small child ! I've sold modestly into Europe since and developpped and evolved the goods until now I feel confident to sell to a larger and more distant market. In the range currently are : 1 3/4" primary pipe Full-race header : $799 1 5/8" primary pipe Race-sport header : $661 1 5/8" primary pipe Street-sport header : $537 Full 2.5" exhaust line with standard rear muffler : $559 JDM twin-exit rear muffler : $160 I'm looking at less expensive methods of shipping, currently $380 (tracked and insured) for a header and exhaust (with standard rear muffler) and JDM rear muffler. I'll be very happy to answer any and all questions. Best regards, Sean

Just saying 'hi'. Hope to have my new acquisition on the road in 6 months

This arrived today. Japan to Sweden just 4 days after i placed the order. Thats fast!

Mighty!!!

Collected the Z from the tuners today, the consensus about the Facet Fuel Pump was that it will be ok mounted in the engine compartment, we'll see but I'm happy with it and the triple instillation [emoji106][emoji106] also stripped my wheel Trims ( caps ) ready for refurbing :-) it's been a good day

I think that you could easily measure all of those with a scanner, some data-acquisition software and a computer. Very common in the industrial/scientific world. But, maybe expensive. If you did the math you'd probably find that converting to Megasquirt, for data-logging alone, would be the way to go. The tuneable engine management would be a bonus.

FSM's Factory Service Manuals Supplement Technical Service Bulletins Owners Manual Datsun 240Z L20 L24 Factory Service Manual.pdf Datsun 240Z factory service manual (Body + Chassis) Part 1.pdf Datsun 240Z factory service manual (Body + Chassis) Part 2.pdf 1971 FSM Supplement.pdf s30 chassis Supplement.pdf

Assembling engine. Just wanted a check on my assumptions where I should use red loctite: 1. Crank Bolt 2. Flywheel Bolts 3. Pressure Plate Bolts 4. Oil pick-up bolts 5. PCV-tube-mesh plate screws

Okay, I've pulled the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, trans. input seal and trans. output seal - the whole interior of the bell housing was coated with a nasty mix of motor oil, gear oil and clutch dust. Now it's time to reassemble. Do you use loctite on the flywheel bolts? Red or Blue? Do you use anti-seize on the flywheel bolts? What about the pressure plate bolts? Is the flywheel or pressure plated coated with any kind of rust inhibitor? If so what is the best way of dealing with this? Should the pilot bearing be greased or oiled or dry? Sorry about all the questions, but I don't want to have to pull the transmission again anytime soon. Thank you,

I use blue loctite on the flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I grease the spline on the input shaft, put a dab of grease on the ball where the spring attaches the clutch arm and don't forget to take your pinky finger and grease the inside of the bushing in the rear of the crank (important). Make sure you get the torques right........you don't want your flywheel coming off. Don't over-tighten the pressure plate.....torque numbers are low and those bolts will break off. Guy