Leaderboard

just a quick follow-up on this thread: i completed my F54/P79 rebuild and swapped it in, transferring the carbs exactly as set up for the old motor and i've been delighted with how well it runs. the the new motor is broken in with about 700 miles on it and the carbs are performing flawlessly - beautiful, steady idle at 600rpm and silky smooth right up to 7K (haven't revved any further than that yet). i'm pretty sure there's more to get from them with some fine tuning, but that will wait until i install a 6-2-1 header and the dual O2 sensors to really understand where it's at. i'll report back when i dig into that in a few months.

Should be "HLS30-02148" Look above the brake booster on the firewall if it is left hand drive. Engraved into the firewall is the VIN number that can be stenciled. Yeah, What "quick draw" said ^^^ Those Texans are fast on the draw...

For this one I used Evaporust, the bore is pitted but it doesn't matter as the piston is supported by the center screw and the seal that sits above the bore surface. I probably am too anal but just can't stand the thought of brand new seals getting scratched and torn by rust before I even install them on the car.

Take your time and make small welds. The inspection doors are thin and they will "oil can" badly if you feed too much heat into them.

I've rebuilt calipers with no problems (well maybe one) in the far past. The hardest part was getting the pistons out. I didn't have a compressor at the time so I took the calipers to the gas station to blow out the pistons. The first piston popped right out but the second piston remained due to escaping air out of the first cylinder. My first (and worst) idea was to block the escaping air with my hand. The second piston did come out. With a loud bang, it blew into the back of my hand. I had to finish the brake job the next day. I would suggest if any pistons won't come out with air, find a shop with a pneumatic grease gun. That will push them out.