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It's the Hoser Hut!

I finally got a decent video camera. A Sony Action Cam. Took the Z out for a stroll, check it out.

poutine!!!!

Mark, You are a hardcore hobbiest that for sure. I admire your dedication and enthusiasm.

Almost two months and a few thousand dollars later, I am seeing the light at the end of the garage tunnel.... A few more sheets to go up on the ceiling, a little more vent work and a coat of paint and the interior shell will be done! After that, I will set up a couple benches and a shelving system and install the overhead fluorescents and the car project can finally begin!!!! whew....

And less than a block away from the Peabody is this place. I'm not recommending we go... In fact, I'm recommending we don't. I'm just thinking we need to keep Blue and his crew far from this place. We don't want any international incident.

Pretty car! FAIW, it's got a '77/'78 bumper and molding on the front -- probably wrecked at some point. Then again, with cars these old, it would be unusual to find one that has never been wrecked. The engine bay photo is pretty fuzzy, but there does seem to be an assortment of hose types, suggesting that replacements were only done when a leak or break was discovered. I'd recommend replacing all of that junk with new. It should cost all of $15. The wiring repairs are also pretty amateurish. There are probably some good youtube videos on making wire junctions -- small learning curve + a minimum of equipment -- not rocket science. My usual approach is to crimp, fill with solder, and then insulate/seal with marine-grade heat-shrink tubing (which you can buy at Harbor Freight). I'd remove all the nasty looking splice work and replace with new lengths of wire. And depending on the condition of the electrical connectors, I'd replace those with new ones from ebay (search for "280Z injector connectors"). The 2-wire ones are readily available. The 3-wire (throttle position sensor) is available from more modern vehicles in the wrecking yard (e.g. Volvos). The large airflow meter connector is probably fine, and you would have a hard time finding a good replacement anyway. And you should take a look at your fusible links (under clear plastic covers on the passenger inner fender). They might be crusty and unreliable. The covers are often gone, exposing the contents to moisture/corrosion. You should pull off the battery cables, clean up the posts and connectors, clean the top of the battery, install felts, grease the cable clamps, and reinstall. Heck, you could probably use new cables, judging from the corrosion. All of this is detail work that you can do with a minimum of tools, knowledge, or strength. You'll probably eliminate a few problems in the process, without even knowing you did it.

rossiz, It look like you have to add images in a post of some kind. Try this. 1. go to post you want to comment in. 2. at bottom right click "more reply options" 3. at bottom left "attach file" - BROWSE - your computer. 4. select attach file, it should show up in your "My Media" fules then. 5. if your don't want to finish the new pose just use the back arrow at the top of you browser and your back out of the pose of hit Cancel where it says Add Reply. Try it I did and it worked for me.

If you look across the broader spectrum of 60s to early 70s sports car selling prices over the last few years you'll see the same price increase almost across the board for well known global-market cars. E-types went from $125k to north of $300k, and 71-73 porsche 911s have tripled in price. A BMW 3.0 CSI was a 15 to 20k car forever, and all of a sudden it now costs over $50k for one you'd want to own. An early countach was $400k a few years ago, now they are $1.8 million. In this context it's not too surprising that late 60's and early 70s Japanese cars are following the trend. As the interest bell-curve edges towards cars of the mid 70s and newer, we will likely see more of that. At the same time, we'll see a decline in interest for the more common pre-war cars, and those prices will not keep up with inflation. Some selling prices appear skewed when it comes to fully restored cars - it can take $100k of more to restore most cars to concours levels, and more buyers are willing to pay a premium for true #1 cars, which skews the market for cars typically valued at far less than that. I think it would be a real litmus test to see a concours-restored, certified Z nationals winner cross the block. I would not be surprised any longer to see an eye-popping result. (Note, this is not to say that all the Japanese cars that sold in August were concours examples. I saw them all in person, and IMHO not all were concours).

Aboslute malarky. The picture of the car in Zama is proof enough for me. Highly disturbing. Here's what I found on zhome.com: 1971: 19th East African Safari Rally Overall First Place Team - Edgar Herrmann / Hans Shuller 240Z #11 (note: Overall Victory, Class, Team, and Mfg. Victory) Overall Second Team - Shekhar Mehta /Mike Doughty 240Z #31 Overall Seventh Team - Rauno Aaltonen / Paul Easter Car #12 1972: 20th East African Safari Rally Overall Fifth Place Team - Edgar Herrmann / Hans Shuller 240Z #10 Overall Sixth Place Team - Rauno Aaltonen / Toni Fall 240Z #5 Overall Tenth Place Team - Shekhar Mehta /Mike Doughty 240Z #8 1973 21st East African Safari Rally: Overall First Place Team - Shekhar Metha / H.W.(Lofty) Drews 240Z #1 Overall Second Place Team - Harry Kallstrom / C. Billstram DATSUN 1800SSS Overall Fourth Place Team - T. Fall / M. Wood DATSUN 1800SSS ACCIDENT - DNF Team - Rauno Aaltonen / Paul Ester - 240Z #6