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I worked on my seats while the Z is at the body shop. I purchased the new covers from MSA. My foam was still in relatively good shape so I decided to just steam clean them and keep it. I followed this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44331-diy-how-to-recover-your-z-seats-lots-of-pictures/ I cant stress enough how important it is to make sure to use lots of heat when installing the covers, it makes all the difference. I used a steamer and also let the covers sit out in the sun for 15 to 20 minutes. Heres what I started with. Here are the new covers Side by side pics of the old and new covers First I removed the old covers and cleaned up the frames and gave them a fresh coat of paint. Added some high density foam to replace the nasty horse hair. Cushion installed Than the backs, these were a little more tricky. Cut the new holes Cleaned up all the hardware and reinstalled Final product. Overall I think they turned out pretty good. Not perfect concourse quality but I am happy with them.

A winter thought: Is the thermostat working and keeping the engine hot? A cold engine burns a lot of fuel and runs rich.

Matt, is there nothing you can't do? How about you post a pic of something you have done badly, cause I'm starting to doubt that you are even from this planet. Nice work... you Vulcan!

Dash pot rod may need adjustments. The white plastic thing with an open hole that looks like there is hose missing. Or maybe the BCDD?

See if this helps. 240z Fuel Tank

I agree with that. I removed that heavy front bumper before installing the spoiler, it would get a little squirrelly when the wiper blades lift off the windshield. But now it's steady as a rock when the wipers do their dance. I'm going to have to find spoilers for the wipers.

The ABSORBER - the local WallMart carries them as well. Soft Bath Towels I believe that the key to avoiding the micro scratches you see in the surface - is to be consistent in keeping the surface clear of the micro fine particles of dust/grim that get attached to, or stuck in, the waxes and polishes that are used to coat/protect the paint. Most of the drying methods mentioned won’t actually scratch your paint. The micro scratches you usually see, are actually scratches in the surface built up wax/polish left on the car. They are the result of grim/grit that is still trapped in that remaining wax/polish even after you wash the car. Most people rinse the car off with just water if the car has a good wax shine, or they use very mild soaps so as not to remove the wax. So the remaining wax gets contaminated with micro fine particles. These micro fine particles can be dragged or moved across the surface - by contact with almost anything used to dry the car. If you are getting micro fine scratches showing up in your surface - it is past time to Clay Bar the car. Wash and dry your car - then run your finger tips over the dry surface. Clay Bar that area - and run your finger tips over it again. You will quickly see that what you thought was a “clean” surface - really had a lot of grim trapped. That grim you just removed with the Clay Bar - is what puts the micro scratches in the finish, if it is dragged around by anything coming in contact with it. FWIW,Carl B.

I believe i got the rear dog leg pieces from Black Dragon. I bought some 18 gauge and 20 gauge sheet metal pieces from Home Depot for the rest.