Leaderboard

got rained out a few days in a row, sun came out today and got 'er done. she fired right up and ran smooth as can be. once she was all warmed up i did a hot valve lash adjust, topped off coolant, set the dizzy timing, and just for kicks threw on the vacuum gauge and was amazed to finally see fantastic manifold vacuum! on another thread i posted how i've done everything under the sun trying to solve my low vacuum readings - replaced every hose, connection & associated mechanism, checked compression, played w/dizzy timing, but always had horrible readings. the car ran well enough, but i just bugged me that the vacuum was reading so low. now i believe that the rocker geometry affected my valve timing. i took her for a spin and was quite pleased with how she ran. super smooth and the sound is fantastic - couldn't resist ripping it up to 6K with every shift. surprising how much timing & cam affect exhaust note. the stock cam doesn't have the big hit at 5K that the other one had, but it pulls nicely in a very linear fashion right up to 6K. the plan is to just drive it as is while i build the F54/P79 and spend some time calibrating the butt-dyno for baseline comparison thanks to all who have provided encouragement and assistance on this latest blow-up! finally - a happy motor!

Hello everybody! My name is Mário and I'm from Portugal. I'm registered in many clubs and foruns, and I was registered here also, but my computer crashed and just a few hours ago I discover the forum and could register, so here I am! I hope I can learn tons of stuff from our Z's and some other cars too, and also share with you my experience ans know how. I'm the proud owner of a B110, 510 SSS and a 1971 S30. I had restored back in 2006 the B110, a 100% restoration project that lasted 3 years, I think some of you might know the story, because I'm registered in tons of sites and clubs, and the B110 is now the most famous I got. Then I bought the 510 SSS, my dream car, and still is one of my passions. It's a hell of a car... And then in 2011 I bought my Fairlady. She's not all original as you will see by the photos, but soon, I hope, I will give her a 100% resto as I did to my B110. Hope to have fun and help you! Regards Mário My B110

http://www.carbuildindex.com/42285/from-rough-backyard-ragamuffin-to-stunning-show-car-condition-a-datsun-240z-restoration/ Based on this one with more details: http://motor.geocities.jp/atakausa/index.html

That sounds like one crazy light-show, with the lasers. Can you work in a Disco ball too? On the serious side, something like the laser idea has been done before when I was in college. We used a laser like Mark suggested, but with an optical sensor, like a 30mm strip of a CCD. We used a computer (an Apple II) to record the data that could later be converted to millimeters, and finally charted. It was only in 1 dimension then, but you can probably get a 2-dimensional sensor now. Still, I think strain gauges would be even better to measure the flex in many dimensions. Not only in the one spot, too, but checking the affect of a front brace on the rear of the car.

All Z's should have those wires at the ballast resistor location. Here's an example for 1976. One is black with white stripe, the other is back with blue. Your year may have different colors.

So I think I've replied to a similar topic in the past, but will summarize my experience here. First I have a late manufacture 260Z so it was already equipped with an electric pump as well as mechanical. It also had the original convoluted wiring scheme that only turned the pump on under certain conditions. One of my goals of this mod was to be able to "prime" my Webers with the key in the on position. I find that when the car sits for a while the Webers will get dry and the mechanical pump by itself was not sufficient to provide that prime. I did eliminate the mechanical pump entirely. I wanted to be able to use the existing mounting at the back of the car near the tank for the new pump, and managed to find a brand new pump that was a carbon copy of the original one that came with the car. The pump is a Facet / Purolator FEP-60SV and bolts right up to the OEM mounting points. The pump does give off some noise / ticking which is noticeable when I'm priming the carbs and the car is not running. I actually like this as I know for sure that the pump is running, but one my car is started, you don't hear it at all, especially over the exhaust. I completely removed all of the OEM hard lines as well as the return. I run a SS braided line directly from the pump up to the passenger side part of the firewall where it terminates into a FPR I believe made by Summit Racing. From there I run a line from the side output of the FPR around the valve cover where it terminates into a 3 output fuel log which feed each of the 3 Webers. It works great without a return and I've never had vapor lock problems. Hope that helps. Mike.

in case the photos aren't clear enough, the issue is the tab on the top end of the rod that spins your dizzy isn't in the center of the shaft - it's offset slightly to one side, so the dizzy can only go on one way. easy to get it mixed up (i've done this) and easy to fix - pull the oil pump and you'll see a notch in one side of the part tube-shaped nose of the pump, and there's a small dot machined into one side of the dizzy timing gear shaft that has to be lined up with the notch in the pump. then you slide it up and in and the spiral gears will mesh and the shaft will twist into place (if you're lucky) or be a tooth off and you'll have to go back a tooth and try again. can be done solo, but much easier w/two people - one up top with a pair of needle nose pliers and one below holding the pump. install it w/the dots lined up and the person up top can grab the tab w/the pliers and push the rod down slowly, feeling for the point where the gears disengage and then jump it a tooth and pull it back up while the person below pushes the pump up to keep things in place. this may sound complicated, but once you're doing it things will make perfect sense. i did this myself a couple of times by stuffing a wad of paper towels up under the shaft at the oil pump hole, threaded in a pair of oil pump bolts and stretched a rubber band across them, which gave me the ability to push down from the top, twist and let the rubber band push the shaft back up until i got the dizzy tab lined up. then i used a pair of needle nose pliers with a rubber band wrapped around them (a pair of needle-nose vice grips would be better if you have 'em) to hold the tab from falling down when i went back underneath to put the pump in. you may have to unbolt the sway bar from the frame rail mounts to get the oil pump to drop - no need to take the sway bar all the way off, just the two surface mount u-shaped brackets that hold it on w/the bushings. if the car is up on jack stands, the wheels will drop and the sway bar brackets will not line up for re-install, but just put a jack under one front tire at a time and lift it up a little and the sway bar will move right into place. hope this helps!

That looks like its going to be that way. I'm just busy completely doing the floor pans and frame rails. I'll get to the wiring after the rust is taken care of.

I met Mr. Uemura and Mr. Osawa yesterday, they remember me when we had a chat back in 2003. At the interview they kindly let me have production figures 1969 and 1970 we had never seen at the time.That was a great moment for all of us . They told me some interesting new story of the test ride in late 1969 in the US and Canada, I will let you know more later. Remember one of the test car was an 3N71A auto trams? I asked them why the launching auto trans delayed, did they find some problems? They said "3N71A was very good, very easy to drive. They preferred it especially when they drove steep hill in Sanfrancisco area. Just production line was not ready at the time" And in cold wether operation in Canada, they wanted -30 degrees Celsius, but they ended up only -20 degrees Celsius, I asked did the 240Z behave satisfactory under such a cold winter condition, they said no problem at all , but they do not remember clearly about it ,they said sometimes they might put card board in front of the radiator!! I liked it and it made me smile. Kats

Nostalgic Hero Now on sale , at the same time The Nostalgic 2 Days is open Saturday and Sunday , my car is displayed at the show. I am so happy that so many people taking pictures of my car. Kats PS The cover of the S20 engine is the limited edition at the show , only 300 this cover magazines are on sale and only available here.

Remember i have a second chassis for spare-parts. will need to cut a lot of parts from that one soon But the reason was that i didn't have space for a third chassis and my calculations made it pretty equal to buy a 10k$ Chassis in good condition and import it to switzerland (and it still needs work) or get mine done with no extra work and the fact that i save an "unsaveable" car. I know many of you wouldn't propably not go the extra mile, but i feel like it's worth the money and it makes it even more special. From a junkyard-worthy 300 dollar car with rust, dents and bad repair attempts everywhere to the Queen that she hopefully will be in a few years It was never ment to be a fast restoration (well maybe at the beginning, but that soon changed). The plan was always to have a long-term project and build my dream