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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/24/2015 in Posts

  1. Just got back from the local Nissan dealer. Today, an older parts specialist was behind the counter. I gave him the part number for the float bowl gasket that was NLA yesterday. He looked it up and asked how many hundred I wanted. I ordered three at $1.70 each and they'll be here Thursday morning. Lesson learned: Always ask for the "old guy" behind the counter when ordering vintage Z parts at the Nissan dealership. Dennis
  2. I thank you very much Mr. K. My life is so enjoyable because I have Zs. I miss you so much. Kats
  3. Chuck sent me a picture. The 72 is ready.......this is a cell phone pic......I'll send better pics when I get her home!
  4. Thanks, I just read your entire build thread on your 370. That thing is amazing!
  5. Oh boy! I'll be first in line when these become available! Hip Hip Hurrah for you Steve! Some of the time things in life can happen when you wait! And----I've waited and wanted and wished for quite some time. I can see a few air cleaner housing refurbishments in the near future to keep me busy! Jim D. "Zup"
  6. A preview of a project I have been working on. reproductions of the 70-73 air cleaner gaskets. These will need to be glued in place like the originals.
  7. I've tried contributing to Wikipedia in the past (notably on the subject of Albrecht Goertz) but my input was soon edited back again. Far better to make sure that we have the correct information here. And unlike Wikipedia, we have the knowledge, ability and format to discuss topics at length - with supporting evidence in the form of documents and photos - and come to a conclusion (or at least an 'open verdict' on the more contentious points) and all this can be accessed and researched. We have it here. Please don't lose sight of that.
  8. The bible is correct. Early L24 engines had 33mm exhaust valves. and 42mm Intake Valves. Installing 35MM exhaust valves with a high lift cam requires slight bore notching for clearance. The valve center-line is offset to place the larger Intake valve closer to the center-line of the combustion chamber, so it normally clears the cylinder wall no problem. Installing 44 mm Intake valves and a .500" lift cam on an L24 will clear the cylinder wall " Physically " if my memory serves me correct. Bore notching on the Intake side is done purely for " un-shrouding purposes. DOUBLE CHECK that clearance...it's been a long time since I've assembled an L24!!! Best way is to install some lightweight checking springs on the valves and assemble with retainers. Bolt the head to the block with an old gasket, flip it over, then physically open and close the Intake and exhaust valves while looking down the bore. Confirm the valve to piston wall clearances visually. Use a dial indicator to measure valve lift. Give at least .090" clearance over maximum valve lift specs to allow for Valve float in the case of over rev. As I said. I'm reasonably sure that the 42mm and 44mm Intake valve clear the cylinder wall at all lifts. But check it to be sure. The 35mm exhaust valves do not. They can tag the bore edge. Of course you're going to check Piston to Valve clearance as well.... correct?
  9. Kats, $ 150.000 and then stil need to restore them.. that crazy money. Then the one in the auction must bring at least above $ 250.000 With that high prices for a 432 you wonder why the prices of the regular most kept original 240Z's haven't gone up much yet..
  10. Hey Peter, Yes that is correct. Just look for Nikki fuel pump on ebay. The Nikki fuel pump from an F-10, 610, 710, 620, 510, 210, B210, 310, 240Z, 260Z all use the same fuel pump internal parts. The easiest way to tell if it has a dual diaphragm is the little tab of rubber that sticks out the side of the pump will have a tiny staple in it. You can see it in the photos i posted. The rubber gaskets shouldn't be dry as it's been sitting on a shelf.
  11. When you have an alignment done at a shop, their Hunter machines have bearing plates under each tire that allow the adjustments to be made with minimal friction. One way I've seen this done at home is to use two 12x12" vinyl floor tiles under each tire. Put some wheel bearing grease between the tiles and they form a poor man's bearing plate, allowing the tire to slide around relative to the floor when alignment settings are changed. Pic courtesy of Google:
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