LF fuel injectors - Page 4 - Fuel Injection - Classic Z Car Club Skip to content

LF fuel injectors

Featured Replies

I thought he stated earlier that the original three were dead. Still very curious there’s not a hidden issue where all three in that bank don’t work especially after replacing them. Chinese knock offs aren’t the best but 2 out of three should have worked if not all 3. Has to be some hidden Issue.

If he has 6 noid lights I'd plug them all in, crank it, and see what the light show reveals.

@Zed Head I agree. Something is just not adding up. Variables are not going away.

  • Author

Lots of good information for me to digest.

I will get back out there tonight and see what answers I can find.

  • Author

Here's what I got

I cobbled together all of the noid lights in the kit i had and made this monstrosity. Shows everything is pulsing as well as I can tell, but this is the first time i've done this.

The lights are lined up in order. The left being cylinder 1 and the right being cylinder 6. Honestly I was expecting a sequence rather then all going off. but i just read that its correct.

I also hooked up all the old injectors to the harness and as expected, the same three injectors do not function regardless of which plug they are connected to.

By 'fire' I mean pulse or tick. I can feel the old injector pulse in my hand. They new ones, I cannot

I should also note that I purchased and replaced all 6 injectors. Sounds like there might have been confusion on that part. It seemed reasonable to do all of them. I did try the three known good injectors and three new ones at the same time and same as before, the old ones pulse, the new ones do not.

20260622_070906637_iOS.jpg

I pulled resistance for all the injectors. The location of the old injectors has always been the same and marked. the injectors at 3,4,5 had a a hard time getting a steady reading, probably due to corrosion. From what I have read, they seem within acceptable limits. I also read the zcar forum post that was linked and it sounds like its possible its not close enough?

20260622_072816480_iOS.jpg

Edited by nowak1981
added context

S
Sponsored
Advertisement
Go Ad-Free
No ad showing? Ads help support ClassicZcars. If you use an ad blocker, please consider allowing ads on this site or Go Ad-Free.

I remembered the number but not the "T" part and just googled it, sorry for the bum steer amazon thing. I hope you figure it out.

I found the old thread from 2012 where I found out about FJ707s. Mine came from rockauto.com for $169 with clamps and 2 rubber insulators just like this guys pictures. I remember they were made in South Carolina.

post-26703-14150818158417_thumb.jpg https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/42603-fuel-injectors-fj3-or-fj707t/?&_rid=23570#findComment-385022

5 hours ago, nowak1981 said:

I did try the three known good injectors and three new ones at the same time and same as before, the old ones pulse, the new ones do not.

Are you sure the new ones aren't clicking? Maybe it's a faint click that is hard to hear?

Can you try connecting some of the new injectors directly to the battery with jumper leads and see if they click that way? Don't leave it connected for too long because it might not be good for the injector. But you should be able to touch the leads to the battery for a quick test without hurting anything.

  • Author

I have a power probe that I barely know how to use. I did get an old injector to click, the new injector maybe, I dont know. The action of touching the probe to the terminal makes a noise on its own. but with the old injector, its obivious that it can pulse/tick. The new new injectors, im not so sure about. I can hear/feel the electrical contact, but I cant tell if the injector is doing anything. Could it be that the new injectors are just super quiet?

Just to be more clear, with the working injectors I am hearing two sounds. The contact of the probe to the terminal creates a tiny jolt/electrical arc contact that has a little bit of a tick to it. And also the physical pulse of the injector itself. I can only feel the electrical jolt contact with the new injectors. Even if I put it to my ear.

Ill try the direct to battery approach next time im out there.

Maybe it would be worth hooking back up to the fuel system and tapping to the battery to see if it sprays? Does the injector need to be pressurized to spray?

Edited by nowak1981
more info

I would think so, yes.

1 hour ago, nowak1981 said:

Maybe it would be worth hooking back up to the fuel system and tapping to the battery to see if it sprays? Does the injector need to be pressurized to spray?

That would answer many questions.

If you disconnect the small wire to the starter solenoid you can turn on the fuel pump by turning the key to Start. That will pressurize the rail and injectors. Then you can leave the key at On/Run and tap a ground wire to the coil's negative terminal. Every third tap the injectors should squirt. That will test the ECU and ignition system and the wiring, plus it will squirt a minimal amount of fuel. Watch out for sparks. Six empty soda bottles is a handy way to contain and collect the gasoline.

Or you can disconnect the ECU, leave the key on after pressurizing the system and ground each injector's pin. That will open each injector. Each injector has a pin in the ECU.

image.png

You could also just reconnect the fuel system, leave the injectors out, pointed where you want the fuel to go, and turn the key to Start like you did with the noid light test. A couple of key turns should tell the story.

Edit - don't forget that stuff can get sucked in to the open injector holes in the manifold if the engine is turning.

Edited by Zed Head

On 6/22/2026 at 4:00 PM, nowak1981 said:

Could it be that the new injectors are just super quiet?

I'm thinking that maybe, yes? I wouldn't be surprised to learn that new injectors with a different internal valving system are quieter than the old original pintle style. The more motion there is inside the injector, the more things will wear. Minimizing the motion would minimize wear. Maybe the new ones are actually opening, but just really quiet.

You can test to see if they are opening using a can of carb cleaner and a straw.... Connect the injector to a power source (I've heard that a nine-volt battery works and runs less chance of damaging the injector) and then while there is power on the injector, you can spray a blast of carb cleaner through the injector. If it's open, it'll come out the other end. If not open, it wont.

Note: Wear safety glasses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.