If you find that the ignition relay has given up the ghost, you can make your own replacement with easily acquired parts or buy them already assembled from ZCarDepot. https://zcardepot.com/products/starter-relay-upgrade-replacement-280z?_pos=1&_sid=fb635bdb1&_ss=r

New problem smh. No start after unraveling all the wires that by the way look good and uncut. Power just before the connector for the fuse box no power after that. Managed to clean some contacts and finally got the buzzard very weak with key on but no start. I was on my driveway (hill) I thought maybe I ran out of gas. Put 4 gallons still no start. Also messed with the fusible link wires and nothing. Will be upgrading fusible links with a maxi fuse box to restore proper power at the links and hopefully it will help.

4 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

If you find that the ignition relay has given up the ghost, you can make your own replacement with easily acquired parts or buy them already assembled from ZCarDepot. https://zcardepot.com/products/starter-relay-upgrade-replacement-280z?_pos=1&_sid=fb635bdb1&_ss=r

I can hear the relay click when i turn the key on.

18 minutes ago, dtejada said:

I can hear the relay click when i turn the key on.

Be careful. There are two relay coils, and hearing a relay click doesn't mean the contacts are good. Check the fusebox for voltage where I indicated to verify. (Note: Ideally you want to load test as the presence of voltage does not mean the circuit can handle current, but it's good enough to test for voltage right now.)

I also forgot to mention, you should hear a click when going to ACC.

Not much time to poke around today but I noticed this…EFI power supply? What is that wire seems like plastic?? circled in last photo.

That is the EFI fusible link. I can't talk to one side being plastic, though.

I think that the cylindrical plastic piece had a barb on the end that was poked through a hole somewhere to fasten it securely so it didn't flop around. Might be able to find a picture of it in its proper location on BaT.

Edited March 6Mar 6 by Zed Head

7 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I think that the cylindrical plastic piece had a barb on the end that was poked through a hole somewhere to fasten it securely so it didn't flop around. Might be able to find a picture of it in its proper location on BaT.

Bingo! BaT never crossed my mind, there it is suppose to be in the harness.

I believe that piece of plastic is known as a "strain relief". The purpose is to help prevent damage to the softer delicate fusible link wire when you are pulling on the harness. In other words, if you pull on the wiring, that plastic strip is supposed to protect the link wire.

But yours, like so many others is broken and not doing anything.

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I believe that piece of plastic is known as a "strain relief". The purpose is to help prevent damage to the softer delicate fusible link wire when you are pulling on the harness. In other words, if you pull on the wiring, that plastic strip is supposed to protect the link wire.

But yours, like so many others is broken and not doing anything.

Ok thanks so not important in other words. Got the Z to start, cleaned battery terminals and ground cables.

UPDATE:

I ended up finding the issue in the main power wiring between the alternator, starter, and fusible link area.

I had upgraded to a maxi fuse setup to replace the fusible links, but it didn’t change anything electrically. While troubleshooting I noticed there was no continuity on the main white B+ wire or the two white/red wires that run back to the fusible link area, so I started unwrapping the harness to investigate.

Inside the harness between the alternator and starter I found the main white wire from the starter to the alternator partially burned, along with two white/red wires that feed back to the fusible link block. The fusible links had been removed by a previous owner and the wires had been tied together with wire nuts.

Those three wires were damaged and preventing battery power from reaching the battery-side fuse box, and also interrupting the alternator charging circuit.

I cut out the burned sections of the wires and respliced them properly, restoring the connection between the starter, alternator, and fusible link wiring.

After fixing that the alternator started charging and the car powered up normally. I’m now seeing about 12.6v engine off and 13.3–14.0v running.

At this point everything works except the turn signals, hazards, and dash illumination, so that’s the next thing I’ll be tracing.