dtejada

Here is my fuel filter cocktail 😅

I found two leaks, totally unexpected! 😲 seems like the valve cover gasket seeping oil. Right below there, the coolant fitting coming from the head to the heater core. Is that fitting a good idea to remove or leave it alone? I replaced the hose it was leaking but then I noticed more wetness over night even after cleaning with brake cleaner.

I spun them up a bit raising the front. Now the back is another story they seem to be replaced already…

That’s why it takes curves so nice and tight, it doesn’t clunk at all 😮‍💨

Not sure how far I can keep this thread going buttt as I dig deeper to clean and inspect here is something I found what’s wrong here? Wrong answers only!

Might also be the wrong stud, I can put the stud in and out no threading needed.

Not gonna lie I’m pretty nervous about this one here. I’ve never tapped threads, installed inserts, helicoils, any of that before. Not sure I wanna start learning on the head of a running Z… my Z lol

Nope I haven't really poked around at it.

I didn't think about at the rest of the stud being in there!! Doesn't seem like it..

Need some opinions from people that have actually repaired stripped exhaust/header stud holes on these L-series heads. I’ve got the classic blown gasket/exhaust leak situation and at least one stud hole is stripped. What are you guys trusting more long term on exhaust studs — Helicoil or Time-Sert? Especially with all the heat cycles these engines see. Also looking for advice on drilling/tapping angle. Since the stud hole is close to the runners and access sucks, what’s the best way to make sure the tap stays perfectly straight and the stud doesn’t end up crooked causing sealing issues again? Did you guys freehand it with a right angle drill, make a guide/jig, use the manifold/header as a guide, etc? And honestly… are these headers even worth saving at this point or once they warp/blow out around the flange is it game over? Trying to fix it once and not deal with another ticking/blown gasket a month later. Don’t mind the Xmas tree rug beneath I have a leak 🤫 wife don’t know where it is!

Worth a try why not! PM'ed you.

Well, let's add this to the list I guess, just when I was making progress, they seem expensive just by looking on Ebay.

Need suggestions. Need suggestions from the S30 guys. Opened up my 280Z headlight/combo switch and found one of the copper contacts keeps slipping out of its swivel/pivot seat because one of the little retaining prongs is broken/missing. Anyone run into this before or found a good fix?

SteveJ was tremendous help, walked me through some meter testing and by the way it is a Frontier alternator. He was right, that’s a bad new alternator folks.

Well then, that’s what they are advertising on their site…

Im starting over. Is that top pin #1? If it is my number 1 is blue, 2 is white/red, 3 yellow, 4 black, 5 white/ back and 6 blue. Clockwise from pic # 2

I did have it to white and black at one point to see if it made a difference. Yellow gives me 12v constant black and white no voltage key on of off. Here’s the test that came with the alternator.

I’m sure I have it screwed up somewhere. I wired that way because of Information I gathered from other Z post is it wrong? Middle finger going to starter post and index finger coming from alternator plug to b+ on the alternator. Green from plug to yellow wire from old alternator plug.

No voltage change with revs here, alt is turning for sure and the alt body has good ground just checked

12v on both pins but not change in voltage with rpm increase.

Here is how I hooked up the alternator, green wire to the yellow 12v and red to the b+. Voltage regulator plug (car side) jumped pins 1and 5 pins 2 and 3. 🤔

Using a meter, I haven't increased RPM and checked voltage. I bought there alternator new from Zcardepot, came with testing slip.