Question, doing a mechanical re-commissioning of the 240z

The car was running, and driving when I parked it in the corner of the garage, threw the car cover over it for the winter, and left it.. that was 14 yrs ago... Well life work and everything else took up my time, and here we are...

So stage 1 is to drain the engine oil, and prime the engine oil system and get the oil circulating without cranking the engine. Is there a way to do that by hand?

I thought I might be able to set the engine to TDC, pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive gear through the distributor hole... but after thinking about it the oil pump drive gear is driven by the crank shaft(?) correct? if so that is a no go

So would my only option be to pour some engine oil into each of the spark plug holes, and rotate the crank shaft by hand to get the cylinder walls coated with oil, before cranking the engine with the starter? And don't get me started on the fuel and cooling system

Edited February 7Feb 7 by peng155

I would fog the cylinders with your spray of choice and then use the starter until I had flow to the rockers.

You could pull the dizzy, oil pump and quill and then reinstall the oil pump and spin with a custom quill on a drill through the dizzy hole. But that still won't coat the cylinder walls

2 minutes ago, Patcon said:

would fog

Thanks, after thinking about it, it did occur to me that making sure the cylinder walls were coated enough to prevent any scoring, wouldn't be accomplished by priming the oil system, So I will probably do as you suggested, fog the cylinders with Sta-Bil fogger, and pour a bit of oil into each cylinder, let it sit 24-48hrs or so and turn the crank by hand to get the pistons moving freely again.

Thanks

Oops. (I had Chevy in mind. Didn't even read what I pasted).

If it was mine I'd pull the valve cover and oil the valve train also after inspecting for rust. Sticky valves seem to happen occasionally, causing problems after restarting.

Your carbs might be gummed up also. And your gas tank. And your distributor advance mechanisms. 14 years is a long time. The brake system has probably also absorbed moisture and might have caused corrosion in the MC. Should be fun times!

Edited February 7Feb 7 by Zed Head

@Zed Head "Should be fun times!"

Yeah, I'm pretty sure your idea and mine idea of a fun time is very different

Marvel Mystery Oil.

I agree with using Marvel Mystery Oil on the valve train and in the cylinders. MMO contains oil for lubrication and a solvent to free sticky valves and rings.