peng155

@w3wilkes ... Thanks for your story... what you outlined when you went thru your 71 Z, is pretty much what I was thinking for my 71.. I'm debating the electric fuel pump conversion.. leaning towards doing the conversion when the tank gets dropped.. be nice to have the car start up after a few cranks, instead of having to wait for the mechanical pump to prime the system... Also looking at swapping out the stock radiator, for a newer aluminum one, but it the stock one is still good.. I'll probably go with it for the time being... I've already changed out the stock dizzy for a Malory Unilite dizzy and a MSD 6A unit, and replaced the stock gen for a newer GM alt conversion... I'll probably sit on the stock exhaust system for now, if it works and not leaking.. When Dave Irwin was still on the board, i had him re-build the steering wheel stocks and did the head light relay conversion already, and changed out the fuse box due to the main feed melting issues. I got MSA seat rebuild foam and covers that need to get installed on the factory seat frames, already did the seat webbing.. Besides everything that's already been mentioned, I am going to have to have the springs and shocks replaced.. yeah there is a lot of stuff that'll need to be address, won't know what until I start digging into the car, just hoping it won't be a longgggg list

The car didn't really need any work per say, when I parked it.... or nothing that a 40+ yr old car at the time couldn't have used.... everything worked at the time, it drove good, didn't belch smoke when hitting the throttle, no rough idling.... could have drove it daily if I wanted to... After thinking about it, I may be thinking about which system to prioritize in getting cleaned up and running first, was thinking engine, fuel, cooling, and hydraulics... now I think maybe doing the fuel system first, than followed by the engine, or cooling next. I have a set of Z-Therapy rebuilds on order, and should see those by mid to late summer....

Thanks for the offer, I'd would love to work on the car myself, just to get the experience, but trying to do some of the work alone can get to be real challenging and frustrating... "try and find an old school mechanic local " This is the biggest problem I'm having, most of the old timers I once knew or used to use have retired, and all of the shops work mostly on the newer computerized car, or they say sure not a problem, bring it in... only to find the car has been butchered up, or the job done wrong...

I'm in the Seattle area, I found two shops that maybe able to do the work from a post on a Datsun 311 site, Crown Hill Automotive, and Fisher Auto Service.. "if you tell them you have $10,000 to spend they'll probably find a way to spend it." I hear you on this... I was just planning on visiting both shops, with my to-do list, and ask them to give me a general ballpark quote. I was going to break-up the work into Phases, The gas tank drop and boil, fuel lines being the first thing to be done. I should also add, I wouldn't be against shipping the car off to a garage / shop to have the work done, as long the shop was well know, and within general vicinity of mu location... within Washington.. sure, Oregon... Probably, Cal.. needs to be pretty well know

Hi All, So I started a post in the Engine & Drivetrain section on priming the oil system on my L24 for a mechanical re-commissioning... fancy word for getting the car drivable again after sitting for 12 years or so in the garage. From a 50,000 ft level the following car systems are going to need to be worked or replaced in some fashion... Engine Lubrication, Engine cooling, and Fuel System Long store short, summer 2014 drove the car around for the summer, end of summer rolls around, park the car in the garage, threw the cover over the car, and figure I would start the car up every couple of weeks. That last part never happened, and 12yrs later I gotta figure out how to get the car running again. My automotive knowledge is sort of limited... give the car a tune-up, no problem, change the oil still not a problem, change out the radiator, heater hoses, pretty much any parts swapping not a problem... Where my problems begin are the intimate details involved with the mechanics of a car engine. Timing, valve lash setting. And then there's my age and body factor... I'm not able to bend over the engine bay, or contort my body to get under the dash as I once use to... I live in the PNW and as things are bigger in Texas, things are more expensive in the PNW.. I'm thinking about sending the car out to a garage to do the work needed to get the car running and drivable again, in the most basic function.. start, stop, drive.. I'm allocating a budget of about $10k to to do this, once up and running and driving, than I'll look at upgrading / replacing parts... Do you guy's think a $10k budget can accomplish this? It's been so long since I've done any automotive service shopping / comparison I'm not exactly sure what to budget.

@Zed Head "Should be fun times!" Yeah, I'm pretty sure your idea and mine idea of a fun time is very different

Thanks, after thinking about it, it did occur to me that making sure the cylinder walls were coated enough to prevent any scoring, wouldn't be accomplished by priming the oil system, So I will probably do as you suggested, fog the cylinders with Sta-Bil fogger, and pour a bit of oil into each cylinder, let it sit 24-48hrs or so and turn the crank by hand to get the pistons moving freely again. Thanks

Question, doing a mechanical re-commissioning of the 240z The car was running, and driving when I parked it in the corner of the garage, threw the car cover over it for the winter, and left it.. that was 14 yrs ago... Well life work and everything else took up my time, and here we are... So stage 1 is to drain the engine oil, and prime the engine oil system and get the oil circulating without cranking the engine. Is there a way to do that by hand? I thought I might be able to set the engine to TDC, pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive gear through the distributor hole... but after thinking about it the oil pump drive gear is driven by the crank shaft(?) correct? if so that is a no go So would my only option be to pour some engine oil into each of the spark plug holes, and rotate the crank shaft by hand to get the cylinder walls coated with oil, before cranking the engine with the starter? And don't get me started on the fuel and cooling system

Thanks for the info... I did do a search on craigs list and found another place up in Snohomish and dropped them an email already.. I'll give Zspecialties a jingle as well

Hello Folks, Can anyone suggest a source where i can purchase a used L24 long block for a rebuild project... I'd like it to be somewhere in the Seattle/PNW region so I can go check it out in person as opposed to buying something over the internet sight unseen.. Thanks

Jonathan, Thank you very much for your message... Yes you are quite correct on your advice of resisting the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects... I sometimes tend to start on taking something apart, which then leads to something related item or system, and than I'm thinking "That looks (take your pick) worn out, old, dirty.... and i start working on that other thing... So yes I'll have to make sure I don't start tearing into something before what I started is completed... The suspension is going to have to get replaced, the previous owner lowered the car by cutting the stock springs, so I'm going to replace the springs, shocks and tires at all four corners as well... Thanks for the tip on the Red-Kote I'm still getting use to retirement... My biggest worry pre-retirement was how was i going to fill all the new free time I was going to have... I think cleaning up the Z and getting it ready for next summer will help with that a lot.... Thanks again

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Hi Folks, Two new questions for you.... 1) My plan is to drain and drop the gas tank, service on the tank it self has never been done in the cars 53yr life... I dropped a 1/4 inch diameter tube into the filler spout and drew about 1/8 of a cup of liquid from the tank. What I drew from the tank looked Ok.. no chunks, or black goo in the draw or around the tube... Which really doesn't tell me squat.. I don't plan on being able to drop the tank for service until probably later this summer...most likely around July to August time frame.. I have to see if there's a radiator shop that will hot tank the gas tank for me.... On a worst case assumption that there is some sort of goo, varnish settled on the bottom of the tank.. would i be better off just leaving the liquid in the tank, and then drain it when I'm able to drop it out of the car, rather than draining the tank now and letting what ever is left in the tank exposed to air, to dry out and possibly hardening, making clean out more difficult later?? Question 2, I got a couple of items that I either brought and no longer use/need or brought and never used.... I plan on listing them in the classified section, but since I've never sold stuff online before.. what is the easiest way for me and the seller to transfer funds?? Paypal?? I just want to make it easy for me to get the funds, once verified I got paid, I take the item to UPS get a tracking number send it to the purchaser and be done with it thanks again for your input, and help

Hey Zed head.... I don't see myself driving the car anytime soon at this point, heck I haven't drove it in the last 10yrs and I'm not in any real hurry right now to drive it... I'll be putting it up on blocks while I go thru all of the coolant and fuel hoses replacing and changing those things out... my preference right now is to do this right this time, so that I don't have to worry about it later.... Plus it my own fault for not having properly prepped the car for storage... I've been going thru the post on this site and found a post with a link to resurrectedclassics.com, I went thru their site and it looks like they have reproduction hoses sets for the engine bay (coolant, fuel, emissions) everything I may require.. I was afraid I wouldn't be able to find the proper hoses with the correct bends to replace what every has rotted/corroded from sitting. Thanks for the heads up on the carb cleaner and wd-40.. I'll probably something like penetration oil and a small parts brush and rag to clean off any old grease/lubricant off of the pivot points to get them moving freely again, any suggestions on what to use to lubricate the joints after cleaning??? Someone (sightunseen maybe??) suggested lithium grease..

I've been reviewing the FSM for the coolant and fuel systems since both of these systems involve the transfer of fluid from one place to another within the car using rubber hosing of some sort.. I am worried about the old rubber hoses.. So I'll be replacing all of the rubber hoses in the engine compartment before I fire up the engine.. I'll probably follow siteunseen's suggestion and hook up a small gas can to the fuel pump with new gas and by-pass the gas tank completely... plus I'll also probably dis-connect the cabin heater core hoses in the engine compartment and loop the coolant lines to bypass the cabin heater core, that way if there's any leaking there I can deal with that later.. I may be over thinking this... siteunseen made a good point about spraying the heater valve with some type of lube, and I think I'll probably do this to all of the pivot.. I was thinking of using spray carb cleaner to, clean of any hardened grease or lubricant, and follow that up with a squirt of WD-40.. Does that sound like a good idea?? Thanks

Thanks for the suggestion... After having sat for the past 10yrs I'm pretty much guessing I'm going to have to replace all of the rubber hoses in the engine compartment.. I'm pretty worried about the heater hoses as well..... I'm guessing that all of the rubber hoses are going to be pretty stiff and cracked.

I was unaware that someone was reproducing the gas tanks for the early Z's.. I did a googled search and found that s30.com(?) was selling them for about $700USD I believe.. I don't expect my tank to be in that bad of a shape.. there aren't any dent that I could see on the bottom... what it will look like inside could be a different story.. The Z has always been stored inside a garage since I've know the car when i brought it from my school friend.. and I've always taken it out when it's been dry and or sunny, so I'm not expecting it to cost me all that much to have it hot tanked.. probably a couple of hundred bucks... what I expect to kill me will be the cost of the misc. replacement hoses and possibly a new filler hose and sending unit. When I did a search for a new filler hose just out of curiosity.. that was like $275, and i think the sending unit was $75

As the topic of my post states... I'm looking for a few good locale mechanic recommendations to work on the 'Z'... A lot of the simple to moderately hard stuff I can pretty much tackle (I thknk) There's a mechanic on the Eastside in Kirkland, Wa I'd like to use... but since his shop is so small, he's always booked... If I can't find a good recommendation.. I'm really tempted to contact Z car Garage in San Jose, and discuss the possibility of shipping the car to them for some major engine and suspension work Thanks for the input

Funny you should mention this... I was looking over my to-do list, and I was thinking since I'll be draining the gas tank, maybe it wouldn't be such a bad idea to drop the tank and send it to a radiator shop and have the innards hot tanked, and then pour some gas tank sealer in... Then in the mean time I can replace all of the old fuel lines... I'll have to contemplate on this a bit.....

Gent's Thanks for your input thus far... @psdeeno I think I''ll probably be following your line of thought... I'll get the car into running shape and re-evaluate my situation again... Most of what I have on my to-do list won't cost me very much in parts, and my time is obviously is gonna be free.. @grannyknot. thanks, retirement has been great so far, but than I've only been fully retired for only about a month... looking forward to summer, as I got a house paint project I need to get done... I have to admit part of the thrill of driving the Z was all of the looks I got driving around town... and it doesn't help that I have images of Sung Kang's fugu Z dancing around in my head... I swear that car is so dam sexy looking @jfa.series1... Thankks for the link to Carl's post... looking thru that thread and all of the names I recognized brings back good memories of the old timers from way back when....

Hello Folks, It's been quite a while since I've been on the board or worked on my Z, but I've had my 240z sitting in my garage under a car cover for the last 10yrs.. I recently retired and now have the spare time to spend working on the car again... When I left it parked in the garage it was running and drive-able... but having been sitting for the last 10yrs, I made up a list of the items that I'll probably need to do first on the car.. My current List Drain gas, Drain coolant, Drain / replace oil, Replace clutch slave, Replace brake and clutch fluid, Replace coolant / heater hoses, Replace radiator, Replace tires Once i get to this point then I am considering farming out most if not all of the major engine and suspension work to a shop.. The car has a few modification that I and or the previous owner (a high school buddy)l had done... Roll cage, Recaro seat, upgraded stereo, recovered door panels and carpet, MSD electronic distributor, MSD 6A digital ignition control, 5sp tranny, re-painted, rust areas taken care of.. I'm currently in the process of restoring the stock seat with the seat rebuild foam and covers from the Z store Other than this the car is pretty much stock, I'm at a cross road as to weather to keep the car of sell it. I've kept it because i think it such a cool looking car.. the other thing is that I can't find a shop of mechanic in my area that I would trust with working on my car. The Z as it sits is in my opinion in very good shape, it's not a concourse car by any means, If I keep the car, I'm considering putting in another 20-30k in fixing it up, but I'm not sure if this would be a wise move. Pictures of my Z are in my profile I would assume if you're on this board you're some what a Z-fanatic.. So what do you guy's think?

Steve, Check this link at Zhome.com it shows most of the 240/260z color, and assoceated codes for them.. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary It does show that code 113 is listed as Metalic Green, But when I did a Google search for the paint code you listed 113, it come back as Avacado Metalic Green... Maybe check this other link and see if you can match the current color of your car to what is shown... http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/datsun/1972/all-models/ Sorry I couldn't be of more help.... -Phil

The basic problem is that as the car ages... so does all of the electrical wiring in the car, as the wiring ages it starts to oxidize.. as the wiring begins to oxidize, the resistance of the wire increases, and the current passing through the wiring begins to experience higher resistance, higher resistance results in the wiring getting hotter then it was designed to. This is what is happening with the parking Light circuit, and headlight circuit, current passes from one side of the fuse (The battery, or source side) thru the fuse and then on to the load (the headlights). the weak links... say the combo switch, and the rivets securing the fuse holder to the fuse box experiences more resistance then it was designed to (the rivet get hot, and melt the fuse box plastic, the contacts in the combo switch degraded) ... the only way I think (not positive).. to totally repair the underlying cause of the problem is to replace electrical wiring with new non-oxidized wire. What Dave's harness upgrade does is to place a relay into the circuit to take the high current load off of the factory headlight circuit, instead of having say (Just guessing here) 15amps or more of current passing through the factory electrical wiring... only a few milliamps of current is passing through the factory wiring to power up the rely.... and the main current to power the headlights goes through the relay circuit in Dave's harness upgrade.