I saw that one. Way too much imo. I prolly would have called one of the Z junkyards around. Or taken mine to the machine shop and have them fill the hole and retap it.

Yarb has one I’m going to buy.

Edited July 7Jul 7 by nowak1981

Unfortunately, the only spare one I got, has busted threads too.

Shipping one off to him today.

Thanks to @Yarb I was able to get the cooling system buttoned up and let the car run for about 30m and all seems well. Even managed to get the fan clutch and fan shroud back on. So far no leaks.

As a result of getting the car back to a running condition, I was able to pull the car out and do a deep cleaning of the garage and I needed to make room for my new toy! Got to use a 30% harbor freight coupon over memorial day weekend and it finally came in. That thing is heavier than it looks. I had a heck of a time getting it off the trailer even without all the drawers.

Next task couple tasks

• Replace rubber brake/clutch lines

• replace master cylinder

• upgrade front calipers/rotors to the 4-piston setup I got from @Patcon

• Reinstall fuel tank

• remount foot well electrics

• Turn signals and parking lights work, I need to check if the brake light switch works.

• Need to figure out why the tach isn’t working.

One issue I need to figure out is that I think my fan clutch might be bad, Im not sure. When I was running the car, the fan was quite loud. I feel like its because it was running at full speed. I wonder if dropping the clutch would do something. That happened when I was installing it.

Since I need to replace the steering wheel and the ignition lock cylinder I'm gonna pull the turn and headlight switches and try to clean them. The turn signal is very sticky. Hopefully I can bring it back to life, it seems replacements are super expensive.

Has anyone used NRG steering wheels? This is the one I'm considering, But it appears to be flat rather than dished like the original. I also want one with finger rests like the 240, but I cant find any that arent the thick modern style. I def want a wood grain.

Edited July 12Jul 12 by nowak1981

I had a fan clutch that locked into a no-slip condition. It \was extremely noisy (it sounded like a small plane prop), and it felt like it cut the horsepower in half. However, it did cool well.

Took the brakes apart tonight, for the most part is went fairly smoothly. I stripped the nut on one of the rear brake lines so I ordered a new set. Also order complete rear brake refresh, tie rods, sway bar bushings, wheel bearing, seals. since im reworking the entire brake system, I decided to order a clutch master and slave cylinder. They were pretty cheap. Also caved and bought the NRG steering wheel and adapter.

The old front brakes still has a lot of meat to them. All the old rubbers are getting replaced as well. but Im having a heck of a time breaking the rubber clutch line loose. Im worried about stripping that one. Its soaking in pen lube atm. I might buy a fire blanket and add some heat to it. A bit skeptical about that since its right next to the fuel lines lol. At worst, it looks like a new line is about $100

I decided to replace the wheel cylinders as well. This one has fluid in it, but im not positive that the cylinder is bad. Both the bleeder and the brake line were loose. I must have forgotten to tighten them when I bled them the first time. No matter, it will be all nice and shiny soon. Maybe I can buy a rebuild kit and resell them to recoup some money. Im still reusing the old drums, they seem to be in good shape, New ones a bit pricey. I just need to give them a good scrub. The brake shoes still had a fair bit of meat on them as well.

6 hours ago, nowak1981 said:

having a heck of a time breaking the rubber clutch line loose. Im worried about stripping that one.

You can remove the slave cylinder from the transmission and let it spin instead of spinning the nut. Hold the nut stationary, spin the fitting on the end of the hose. Once it breaks free and you know it will come off, cut the hose. Spin the new one on, reinstall the slave cylinder.

Saw a video about a similar problem with a brake line.

I've found that heat helps too.

Edited July 14Jul 14 by Zed Head

I had thought about that, good to hear it actually works, hopefully I can get a pair of vice grips in there to hold the nut in place

Needle nose vice grips

Managed to brake the clutch line loose using two vice grips, but the nut on the line is seized. I ended up removing the line and I just ordered a new one.

I also tried to remove the clutch master cylinder but holy hell! How do you get to the pin on the inside? I could barely even see it let alone reach it? I read a few posts and I saw something about a thread or wire going through the firewall but im not sure how thats suppose to work.

Replaced the fan clutch but I havent started the car yet to see if its any different. The rotational resistance between the two was almost the same, so we shall see.

I bought a new ignition lock cylinder a while back and I also needed to clean up the turn signal switch. Come to find out that there is a small white piece that attaches to the horn arm that is broken and dry rotted. So I'll be looking for another one of those. I also noticed that the old lock cylinder has two red-blue stripe wires that the new cylinder doesnt have. anyone know what those are for? They connect in the column wiring harness.

Edited July 17Jul 17 by nowak1981

Go up to HF and buy a pair of Doyle extended reach needle nose pliers. I believe they are at least 12” long. Makes the job somewhat easier. Extremely hard to get your hand up there.

The pedal box on my car was mangled and abused. Somebody got frustrated. I had suggested using a thread or wire from inside the cabin to get the clevis pin back in to its hole during reassembly. Mine was worn, with a groove in it, and was clicking whenever I used the clutch.

A pair of locking medical forceps/hemostats might help. Like long nose pliers but you don't have to maintain a grip.

https://commonsensedental.com/shop/hemostats/