We'll call this " The Battle of the Bulge". What caused it?

12 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

We'll call this " The Battle of the Bulge". What caused it?

Joles Asphalt 2.6 Google review

Not enough crush and run then not enough asphalt. They used enough to make it level and look good for maybe a year. What I dug up yesterday was mainly dirt with very little stone under the 2" of asphalt. I got screwed dude. But when it started to show they were long gone. So now I get to fix it. They charged me $3,000 in '03 or '04 now another guy quoted me "around $10,000 but it'll be right when I'm done". I think it will do the same thing if I use asphalt but concrete...WOW that stuff has gone through the roof. My driveway is 20 to 25 feet wide and 125 deep. You could land an airplane on my driveway, the kids in the neighborhood think it's a skateboard park, I could put a Christmas tree up and have my own dragstrip. It's long and wide, concrete would be $20K

My calculation is about $12,000 for concrete

Not including any demo

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

My calculation is about $12,000 for concrete

Not including any demo

Your saying $12k for a new driveway with those measurements? Not digging up the old asphalt and hauling it off?

Thank you Charles, I've just guessed at the price of concrete. One of my neighbors with a smaller drive paid $15k for concrete but that included breaking up and hauling off the old concrete.

I'm just going to wait on my Powerball winnings. For the time being it's gonna be patched and possibly sealed. If I do a good job the next owner's will buy the concrete.😁

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Your saying $12k for a new driveway with those measurements? Not digging up the old asphalt and hauling it off?

I'm just going to wait on my Powerball winnings. For the time being it's gonna be patched and possibly sealed. If I do a good job the next owner's will buy the concrete.😁

Cliff, you can buy a lot of Powerball tickets for $12,000 😎.

My Zed club had it's last group drive for the year, yesterday. My car gal girlfriend was my navigator, as we drove the twisty roads thru Glen Valley in North Langley. Great day.

Today, I tried to install the rear hatch glass in my 240 all by myself. BIG MISTAKE. Even though the glass and weatherstrip sat in the channel OK, I simply could NOT get the inner channel to slip over the weld flange, resulting in an adhesive mess.

Then spent two hours with paint thinner and a LOT of rags to remove that black adhesive first from my orange metalflake paint and then from the weatherstrip and its flange channel in an attempt to salvage it for another try when I have an assistant to press down on the edges AND the temperature is at least 65 F. That may not be until next spring. SIGH. Maybe I'll bring my set up into the house and do it in my family room AFTER I put down a big plastic "drop cloth." BTW, the hatch was secured to each of those stands so it would not shift or fall.

I was following the procedure outlined by Wick Humble in his book How to Restore Your Datsun Z-Car by placing screen spline in the weld flange channel and then laying in a continuous bead of adhesive over top of it. But, with the glass/rubber assembly not sitting low enough in the hatch opening all I managed to do was get adhesive everywhere it should NOT be -- including me. Oy.

So, in the end, I did replace all my OEM incandescent taillight bulbs and my choke light with LEDs that came in today from Super Bright LEDs in California. Cold comfort, but progress.

Edited yesterday at 09:32 PM1 day by Seppi72
Added details.

I would not use any adhesive on the hatch glass seal. If it needs sealing later you can lift the edge of the seal and add a thin bead there

It did strike me as odd that Humble had you snug in the spline and then put a continuous bead of adhesive over it only to pull the spline out later. I can attest that this pulls out most of the adhesive as well. But, who am I to argue with a guy who did it this way and wrote the book on restoring a Z car? Attached photo of Page 130 shows exactly what he said to do. This was for the windshield but he later on says to do the hatch glass the same way.

Then, at the bottom of the first column of Page 131 he says to do exactly as you say; i.e., put the sealant under the raised lip of the window. In fact, as I read it, he's saying to do this on all three channels: glass, exterior and interior. This makes eminent sense and really makes me wonder how that first bit of nonsense made it through editing.

Oh well, live and learn. Frankly, it's stuff like what I've just been through that makes it all the more important that users of this site comb through all the old threads and extract useful info that can be condensed and put into technical articles for any and all to utilize. I'm trying to do that during my build.

Final photo is of my pet Senegal parrot, Koki, eating the marrow out of a chicken bone; a favorite activity. He just loves attention.

Good looking bird!