Here are a few picture updates. Car is now a roller. I should be getting some touch-up paint soon to clean up the spots where the Rotisserie and rollers attached.

I added a texture material to the firewall insulation to more closely resemble the original texture. Just need a few more cutouts.

No disrespect, but it looks to me like the calipers are on the opposite sides. The bleeder valves look to be on the bottom, below the piston.

From what I understand it is very hard to get all the air out as the air tends to rise. I have different brakes now so I could be wrong here.

Of course the bleeders should be on top!! Good luck bleeding that system!!

2 hours ago, Terrapin Z said:

No disrespect, but it looks to me like the calipers are on the opposite sides. The bleeder valves look to be on the bottom, below the piston.

From what I understand it is very hard to get all the air out as the air tends to rise. I have different brakes now so I could be wrong here.

Unfortunately, it's not the first time I've done that. Thanks for the heads up! Will swap those.

That is one of the benefits of posting pics here is that I get great input from the experts. Hate it when I make a mistake, but appreciate the help when I do something wrong.

Edited August 2Aug 2 by motorman7

34 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Unfortunately, it's not the first time I've done that. Thanks for the heads up! Will swap those.

That is one of the benefits of posting pics here is that I get great input from the experts. Hate it when I make a mistake, but appreciate the help when I do something wrong.

I was trying to be polite about the error. I didn't want to bash you about it.

Much easier to fix it now, rather then discover it after the brake fluid is in there and they wont bleed up.

Happy to help out.

OK, got the calipers swapped. Thanks again Terrapin Z for the catch. Was a pretty easy swap at this point in the build.

Got the insulation panels in.

Put the rear panel in temporary. Will need to clean up a few things here. Center panel needs a little body work and will replace the chrome strips on the two tail lights.

Lovely work on 42! Couple of questions, did the brake calipers on the early 1969 build cars have date stamps or were they blank...I know the 1970 builds had a "0" stamped on them. Was it intentional to use uerthane suspension bushings rather than original Nissan ones, is there an advantage to using non original bushings?

11 minutes ago, SpeedRoo said:

Lovely work on 42! Couple of questions, did the brake calipers on the early 1969 build cars have date stamps or were they blank...I know the 1970 builds had a "0" stamped on them. Was it intentional to use uerthane suspension bushings rather than original Nissan ones, is there an advantage to using non original bushings?

There are lots of caliper pictures on page 8 of this blog. Maybe look those over. I checked them out and did not see anything stamped (only cast), but not really sure where to look.

For bushings and most rubber items, I prefer new parts. The Energy suspension parts usually fit and work well. Rubber usually hardens over time, so I am a little leary of old NOS rubber parts. Seems they are hit or miss. NOS suspension parts are also a little hard to find and a bit pricey.

Couple comments / questions:

Is this remnants of a broken off pedal stop stud? If so, would have been beneficial to address that before the paint. Water under the dam, but less risky of messing something up:

And on the front suspension, it looks like you were a little over aggressive with the hacksaw shortening the bolts that hold the T/C rod in place. I think you need a couple more threads to take advantage of the deformed thread nuts anti-loosening feature. Also, it does not appear that the hardware for the sway bar links are the anti-loosening style? I haven't messed with a lot of them, but the sway bar links I've put in have the same sort of deformed thread nuts you have on the T/C bar.

Here's what I'm talking about on the front suspension:

Oh, but beautiful car, by the way!!

You guys catch all the details. 😁

On the sway bar, I believe there is supposed to be a lock washer (as opposed to a locknut). Unfortunately, when everything is new, it is hard to get the rubber compressed enough to start the nut when the lock washer is in the mix. So, I usually leave it like this for a couple days to compress the assembly, then go back and add the lock washer once it's a bit more squished. Seems I always have this issue with that assembly.

Yes, I cut the number 7 bolt a bit short on the left side. Right side has correct length. Could not find two more in that exact length even in my private stash.I have a number of the number 7 bolts in that size, 10mm?, but they all stick through the nut by about half an inch. So, will fix that. Will probably search for correct length again as they are easy to pass over given that I am rifleing through several hundred bolts.

Yes, will have to drill and tap the gas pedal stop. I think I had about 8-10 bolts total that were rusted in and heads broken off during disassembly. I got most before paint. Missed a few. Tapped one in the hatch lock location and one in rear suspension after paint.

Also, in regards to taps, virtually every hole needs to be re-tapped after paint. Paint in the holes causes the bolts to bind on install.

Glad you guys are looking 😀

8 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Yes, will have to drill and tap the gas pedal stop. I think I had about 8-10 bolts total that were rusted in and heads broken off during disassembly.

So... How did I know?

My original did the same thing (on top), and the replacement I made on the bottom: