Oh, and forgot.. Might be the lighting, but your paint on the rear taillight panel looks too light to me.

20 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Oh, and forgot.. Might be the lighting, but your paint on the rear taillight panel looks too light to me.

Yes, it's the lighting, or maybe my phone camera. Even the body paint color comes out wrong. Color looks more like the Orange than safari gold in the pictures.

The early cars had lighter color panels - these look about right but do they have the correct slightly abrasive feel?

Not tapped! Thread chased!!

13 hours ago, motorman7 said:

There are lots of caliper pictures on page 8 of this blog. Maybe look those over. I checked them out and did not see anything stamped (only cast), but not really sure where to look.

For bushings and most rubber items, I prefer new parts. The Energy suspension parts usually fit and work well. Rubber usually hardens over time, so I am a little leary of old NOS rubber parts. Seems they are hit or miss. NOS suspension parts are also a little hard to find and a bit pricey.

It seems the 1969 build cars didn't get the date code on the calipers, great to see some originals on your car.

I got the heater box cleaned up and partially mounted along with the pedal box.

Checked the pedal stop mentioned earlier and did not find a broken stud. Threads were all clear. figure it was probably an unclear picture.

Searched again for the two #7 bolts mentioned earlier and could not find the last two. The bolt size I need is a 10mm x 1.25mm, approximately 37.5 to 40mm long. I have a bunch of 30s and 45s but none in between. Searched through my tubs and completed assemblies with no luck.

I need to add a couple snaps to the firewall insulation. I think I actually have some that look like this, just need to find my install tool.

Added a picture of rear of car without the sunlight and LED lighting. This is a little more true to form for actual color.

Glad your pedal stop wasn't snapped off after all. It must have a trick of the camera with the yellow paint showing through the hole that made it look like it was. In any event, happy to hear it was not. Mine was a real pain to fix. Took heat and contortions. One of those simple five minute jobs that turned into a couple hours to completion.

So for your bolts for the T/C rods... Assuming the length of the un-threaded portion of the 45mm bolts is not too long for the application, you could cut those down. Just cut them a little longer next time! 🙂

One thing I wanted to point out, however, is that you actually have two different bolt styles in your pic... Undercut shank, and full diameter shank. The difference is the diameter of the un-threaded portion. On the undercut shank, they made the un-threaded portion a smaller diameter than the minor diameter of the threads. That makes manufacturing easier and cheaper to roll the threads and usually doesn't have any impact on how the bolt functions in application. However, in some applications where the bolt shank is used to help locate something, or is in full shear under load, it's often better to use a full diameter shank bolt where the un-threaded portion is dimensioned to the MAJOR diameter of the threads instead of the minor diameter.

I think for the T/C rods, you might want to use full diameter shank bolts.

Here's a pic showing what I'm talking about. You have four full diameter shanks (circled) and everything else is reduced shanks:

So, I'm actually looking for some similar bolts... M10 x 1.25 partially threaded with a full diameter shank. I'm looking for 35 mm minimum, but I can cut them down if necessary.

Do you know where off the car(s) did you find those 45mm long full shank bolts?

Might be able to get factree. Looks like there was a change along the way.

#25?

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/front-suspension

https://www.nissanpartsoverstock.com/p/Nissan__/Bolt-Hex-M10X125/89441985/08124-04510.html

6 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Glad your pedal stop wasn't snapped off after all. It must have a trick of the camera with the yellow paint showing through the hole that made it look like it was. In any event, happy to hear it was not. Mine was a real pain to fix. Took heat and contortions. One of those simple five minute jobs that turned into a couple hours to completion.

So for your bolts for the T/C rods... Assuming the length of the un-threaded portion of the 45mm bolts is not too long for the application, you could cut those down. Just cut them a little longer next time! 🙂

One thing I wanted to point out, however, is that you actually have two different bolt styles in your pic... Undercut shank, and full diameter shank. The difference is the diameter of the un-threaded portion. On the undercut shank, they made the un-threaded portion a smaller diameter than the minor diameter of the threads. That makes manufacturing easier and cheaper to roll the threads and usually doesn't have any impact on how the bolt functions in application. However, in some applications where the bolt shank is used to help locate something, or is in full shear under load, it's often better to use a full diameter shank bolt where the un-threaded portion is dimensioned to the MAJOR diameter of the threads instead of the minor diameter.

I think for the T/C rods, you might want to use full diameter shank bolts.

Here's a pic showing what I'm talking about. You have four full diameter shanks (circled) and everything else is reduced shanks:

So, I'm actually looking for some similar bolts... M10 x 1.25 partially threaded with a full diameter shank. I'm looking for 35 mm minimum, but I can cut them down if necessary.

Do you know where off the car(s) did you find those 45mm long full shank bolts?

I think what is showing on the pedal stop is the insulation of the firewall pad.

Owner has a lot of resources, more than me, so he has two 40mm length coming to me with lock nuts included, so willuse those. Will return the nuts.

I can send you some of the 45mm bolts as they are from my private stash (accumulated over the years). Just PM me what you need and I will send them out. On short trip to Portland here, so can send when I return.

The early cars, like this one, had large numbers on the bolt heads while the later cars - through at least the 280ZX - had small numbers. The intermediate cars often had a mix of large and small. Also, be most careful - the drive shaft to diff flange bolts were special indeed.

Besides the length, won't you get dinged at the car show for hack saw marks? I like a smooth nut and bolt engagement and those marks make me squeamish. I can almost feel the rough edges through my eyes.

CO has a future as a car show judge, I think.

5 hours ago, motorman7 said:

Owner has a lot of resources, more than me, so he has two 40mm length coming to me with lock nuts included, so willuse those. Will return the nuts.

I can send you some of the 45mm bolts as they are from my private stash (accumulated over the years). Just PM me what you need and I will send them out. On short trip to Portland here, so can send when I return.

So interesting to note that the original bolts in that location are supposed to be 45mm long. Been a long time since I was messing with T/C rods, but I do remember there was some pushing and shoving required to get the bolts started. Maybe the extra length helps getting the nut started while you fight the bushings at the other end of the rods? And the two different part numbers that zedhead pointed out? Maybe that's the change from the full diameter shank to the reduced diameter.

I have some fuel injection intake manifold mounting bolts, which the fische says are supposed to be the 08134-04510 bolts. And they are the reduced shank, which is not ideal in my application.

And thanks much for the offer to send bolts. I hope I don't have to take you up on that. I've got a box of bolts on it's way from a hardware supplier. They're not exactly what I was looking for, but hopefully they will be good enough. There's a problem with you sending me bolts... I need ten of them. So if my box of bolts doesn't work out, I'll let you know. I need two and-a-half early cars worth of T/C bolts. 😄