Some extra info on the rear bushing. Nissan did not sell a replacement rear bushing for the Zed and early 720 truck transmissions. If it was worn you needed a new rear extension housing.

The correct (alternative) rear bushing for the wide and close ratio zed transmissions is the Omega Machine & Tool P/N: 71411.

The NIS-62 (SKU: 303066) fits FS5W71C transmissions for 4 cyl models 200SX 84-88, 240SX 2.4L 88-97, 720 84-86 etc, but not the zed transmissions

Ah, thanks for the Nis-62 info.  Omega has $56 bucks UPS as the cheapest shipping option to my remote location in the wilds of western Canada. $20 for the bushing. Just how bad do I want it….

Well, today I have reason to deal with the 4 vs 5 speed bell housing reverse switch issue. I’m putting a “B” 4 speed bell housing on a 240sx “C” trans to fit in my 510 with an L18.

I had previously machined out the counter shaft bearing to 62mm, but never finished doing the 16mm bore out of one shift rod, or clearance behind the bearing for the bigger gear that hides there. But first, the reverse switch location.

After considering grinding the 5-R shift rod as mentioned above, I realized that would be dumb, since I will need to put the “C” bell housing back on later this year when I finish the KA swap I’m working on which would render the reverse switch useless.

So I decided to move the reverse switch hole forward the 7/8 inch, ie drill and tap a new hole. It’s M14x1.5, but the trick is getting the angle right, it’s not “square” to the surface, but offset. It’s also thin, ie it doesn’t have a built up boss that would provide both enough threads and to position the switch the correct distance away from the rod.

Well, first, I realized I learned how to TIG weld aluminum this spring while doing KA swap things, so I decided to just add a bunch of material, then machine it down to essentially duplicate the existing mounting location.

Here is step one, add material and kind of grind it down to flatten.

The tricky bit now is mounting the case so that a milling bit is positioned flat and square to the existing hole that should be a great guide for how to orient it.

After a couple of attempts with plywood bolted to the case to get the hole surface level with the mill table, I had an light bulb moment.

Why not use a bolt and plate mounted in the existing threads to create a drilling guide for the new hole.

After I build it, I will post pics of it. Halfway there now.

Edited April 21Apr 21 by zKars

Things went well. The jig allowed me to drill a nice 1/2” hole aligned to the original switch location.

The fun began when I started to file down my “blob” to create a flat surface just like the original hole. I used my favorite little belt profile sander with a 3/8 wide belt. Went pretty well, really should have some kind of milling bit with a 1/2 pilot that would mill a flat 90 degree surface, Might have to resort to sealing the threads to ensure not leaks.

Edited April 21Apr 21 by zKars

5 hours ago, zKars said:

The tricky bit now is mounting the case so that a milling bit is positioned flat and square to the existing hole that should be a great guide for how to orient it.

After a couple of attempts with plywood bolted to the case to get the hole surface level with the mill table, I had an light bulb moment.

Why not use a bolt and plate mounted in the existing threads to create a drilling guide for the new hole.

After I build it, I will post pics of it. Halfway there now.

The pictures aren't showing up on my end. I'm not sure if that's a you or me issue.

Me either.

They show up on my Windows 10 with Chrome computer. Are you guys on phones? iphone, Android maybe?

Here's a cut and paste of a portion.