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Clutch Won't Disengage


adivin

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Ok, I might have it!  With Zed talking about proper hydraulic pressure and Patcon mentioning the master cylinder adjustment, I gave it a shot and adjusted the master cylinder by 6 turns.  I put the slave back on and turned the adjustment nut hand tight and tried to leave just slight bit of clearance.  I was trying not to get hung up on 2mm plus it's hard to measure.  How does this look?

 

Edited by adivin
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The play looks okay, but does it work?  Don't forget to put the return spring back on.

Also, with the rubber boot off it's more apparent that you probably have a short throwout sleeve/collar.  The fork should start a little ahead of the middle of the hole.  Yours is pretty far back.  Probably close to hitting the back of the hole at full stroke.

It will probably work.  Earlier I think I said that problems might happen as the disc wears.  But actually things should get better since the fingers get closer to the TOB as the disc wears.

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On 6/4/2022 at 6:43 PM, adivin said:

Yes, it works.  The clutch disengages.  I can roll the car in gear with clutch in.

Apparently being able to roll the car in gear with the engine off, doesn't mean you can actually put it in gear with the engine running.  I'm still not at the end of the rainbow.  Question, will my clutch fork (240Z) work with all the aforementioned taller collars?

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I installed a new OEM 11/16 slave, not much difference from the previous slave that was also 11/16.  I mad a few more turns at the MC and I can drive the car, but the pedal engages too close to the floor for my liking.

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I did buy a 280Z collar to use with the aftermarket pressure plate.  The stacked height looked good, but with the engine running it was hard to shift into a forward gear, and grinding going into reverse.  The car was driveable, but engagement was at the top of the pedal travel.  I know these may not be same symptoms as yours, just saying there's something funny with these replacement pressure plates.

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Gentleman, If you go back and look at the previous video still pic. Unless it’s the angle I’m looking at the arm is already in the engaged position. Due to the fact @adivin had to draw the trans to the motor with the mounting bolts. The arm should be in the full forward position towards the engine. Am I missing something? 

 

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15 hours ago, Yarb said:

Gentleman, If you go back and look at the previous video still pic. Unless it’s the angle I’m looking at the arm is already in the engaged position. Due to the fact @adivin had to draw the trans to the motor with the mounting bolts. The arm should be in the full forward position towards the engine. Am I missing something? 

 

I did not use the mounting bolts to draw the trans in.  I said it was very difficult to mount the tranny to the engine.  I had to do it with both engine and tranny out of the car.

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