Okay, all of my dashboard wiring is finished.

The AILD-1 is being controlled by the OEM rheostat and dimming the lights. I’m a little disappointed that the LEDs don’t seem to come to full brightness. I ran into this issue with another PWM, but the guy who made this one said it can be trained, so I’m hoping he can help me figure out how to fix that.

After messing around with a few different methods, I decided to secure it to the inside of the dash with adhesive Velcro. I made a separate harness for it that taps into one of the ground wires for the instruments and the fiber optic light module.

The rheostat is completely isolated on the blue and green wires and it’s only function is controlling the PWM. The wires that used to go to the rheostat now go to a connector for that harness.

Here are the instruments turned down to zero and the fiber optic light (and all the other lights) still at 100%.

Edited February 18Feb 18 by Matthew Abate

I have lights. No one is going to not see this thing. These LEDs are significantly brighter than the lights on my Subaru.

Unfortunately, somewhere between testing it on the bench and installing the dash, the speedo and tach illumination stopped working. I think the main branch of wiring coming out of the dimmer is messed up.

I also don’t have any blinkers for some reason. That one is going to be harder to figure out. Worst case scenario is that I made a mistake in the engine harness.

Edited Sunday at 12:49 PM5 days by Matthew Abate

redrum, redrum...

All work and no play makes Matthew a dull boy.

10 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

All work and no play makes Matthew a dull boy.

But with a cool car! ;)

I'm guessing that you didn't see the movie..... ☺️

7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm guessing that you didn't see the movie..... ☺️

I thought it was a shining analogy.

Lost on me but if its a horror movie, life is scary enough...;)

Okay, found my first error.

The flashers aren’t flashing. I had replaced both the TS flasher and the hazard flasher with one of these LED-specific flasher relays. When the switch is thrown the lights come on, but they are just on, no flashing. Unplug the flasher and there are no lights, which makes sense because the circuit is broken in that scenario.

I swapped an aftermarket replacement for the stock one into the spot for the turn signals, but there was no change. I haven’t had a chance to get to the one for the hazards yet.

Any thoughts?

Edit: After looking at the spec diagram on the red relays and comparing the marking on the original relays, I’ve found that the polarity is backwards. This flasher relay has the pins flipped from the one I am using and is the one I should have bought. Maybe if I swap the wires in the connector it will fix it. I just blanked on checking this.

Edited yesterday at 11:33 AM1 day by Matthew Abate

I haven't messed with that flasher, but I have a couple ideas...

First, yes, it is completely conceivable that the electronic flasher is susceptible to polarity issues. I'd certainly make sure you have it wired with the load on the "L" pin and power on the "+" as shown in that diagram.

I found a couple other pics of that flasher from other vendors, and the mounting tab is not electrically connected in any way. So forget about the below.

Second, does that "two wire" flasher need to be mounted with it's tab attached to ground? In other words, is it really a three wire flasher, but they don't count the third wire because they might be making a ground connection through the mounting tab?

Just some ideas.

Edited yesterday at 01:36 PM1 day by Captain Obvious

I used the two prong electronic flashers for a while after converting to LEDs. I found that some of them had spotty performance. After that I switched to 3 prong flashers and grounded the third prong. That has provided reliable performance for years.

I just switched to OEM flasher relays and tried it with the LEDs still installed. No change. The lights come on but don’t flash.

Then I pulled the LEDs and put incandescent bulbs in, which totally fixed it. So it’s the flashers and/or the LEDs and not the wiring.

I am going to try swapping the wires over the weekend and putting the LEDs back in (no time right now. Work deadlines). If that fixes it I’ll just leave it like that until I get around to buying new relays.

Edited 8 hours ago8 hr by Matthew Abate