February 18Feb 18 Author comment_674628 Okay, all of my dashboard wiring is finished. The AILD-1 is being controlled by the OEM rheostat and dimming the lights. I’m a little disappointed that the LEDs don’t seem to come to full brightness. I ran into this issue with another PWM, but the guy who made this one said it can be trained, so I’m hoping he can help me figure out how to fix that. After messing around with a few different methods, I decided to secure it to the inside of the dash with adhesive Velcro. I made a separate harness for it that taps into one of the ground wires for the instruments and the fiber optic light module. The rheostat is completely isolated on the blue and green wires and it’s only function is controlling the PWM. The wires that used to go to the rheostat now go to a connector for that harness. Here are the instruments turned down to zero and the fiber optic light (and all the other lights) still at 100%. Edited February 18Feb 18 by Matthew Abate Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67523-1973-240z-custom-wiring-from-scratch/?&page=18#findComment-674628 Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 hours ago2 hr Author comment_676546 I have lights. No one is going to not see this thing. These LEDs are significantly brighter than the lights on my Subaru.Unfortunately, somewhere between testing it on the bench and installing the dash, the speedo and tach illumination stopped working. I think the main branch of wiring coming out of the dimmer is messed up.I also don’t have any blinkers for some reason. That one is going to be harder to figure out. Worst case scenario is that I made a mistake in the engine harness. Edited 2 hours ago2 hr by Matthew Abate Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/67523-1973-240z-custom-wiring-from-scratch/?&page=18#findComment-676546 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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