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Putting in a replacement L-28


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So most of the regulars on the forum know I rebuilt an L-28 last year. With all sort of reasons for delaying the install I’m now about ready to do this. I wanted to start a thread to help lead me though any unknowns or challenges I’m bound to face on this next big task.
To get everyone up to speed, the current engine has all sorts of problems that pushed me to just do a rebuild with a ZX motor I got at a salvage yard. Here are the bigs three items wrong with the current engine. 1. Rusted Core Plugs, so rusted that coolant leaked pretty bad. I had a temp fix of filling the rusted out holes with JB weld. It’s actually held. 2. Serious timing changing slap (needs a new chain) 3. Bad oil leak. Then you have lots of little things like broken valve cover bolts etc..
So the new engine is pretty much ready to go . Staying EFI for now, got a non-EGR intake, new injectors and a new billet fuel rail. Engine was a total top to bottom rebuild.
Thats the back story.
I’m about 10 days from actual engine removal. I have to acquire an engine hoist and get any other parts that will stop the install.
So I want to ask the members here to give me some insights of things I might be overlooking and maybe some lessons learned. Places people have problems, special tools I might need and or things people screw up.
I plan to spend about a week with the engine out, cleaning and preparing the engine bay. I also plan to replace ball joints and suspension rubber then.
If anyone has tips and/or tricks to help me through this (doing it mostly alone with a little help from a buddy when I hoist and re-install). Please share. I’ll post updates on this thread as I work through this. Thanks!

Here is the old and new engine pics taken today.

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I like to pull the engine and transmission as a unit, swap the transmission to the fresh engine and then reinstall as a unit.

Also, I find it easier to remove the intake and exhaust with the engine in the car, and reinstall after the engine is back in. Fewer things to get in the way or hang up along the way.

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A wooden stand like this is handy for fitting the flywheel and clutch. its easy to make around an engine or sump with a bit of decking board. You can even put castors on it to roll the engine around. (corner needs to be cut away for the oil pump before use!) 

DSC_0442.jpg

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Good idea with the tranny and engine together. I have a replacement tranny that I pulled from a ZX. I still need to buy a new light weight fly wheel and a new clutch. I know there was a recent thread on that topic, that I’m going to read tonight and get those on order. I’m also going to buy some matching spray paint to clean up a few surface rust areas in (under battery and under clutch master) . Found a place that matches factory colors.

https://theautopaintdepot.com/automotive-paint/touch-up-paint/nissan/the-auto-paint-depot-persimmon-red-110-touch-up-paint-for-nissan-280z-all-years/

Let me know if you know a better source.


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Good idea with the tranny and engine together. I have a replacement tranny that I pulled from a ZX. I still need to buy a new light weight fly wheel and a new clutch. I know there was a recent thread on that topic, that I’m going to read tonight and get those on order. I’m also going to buy some matching spray paint to clean up a few surface rust areas in (under battery and under clutch master) . Found a place that matches factory colors.

https://theautopaintdepot.com/automotive-paint/touch-up-paint/nissan/the-auto-paint-depot-persimmon-red-110-touch-up-paint-for-nissan-280z-all-years/

Let me know if you know a better source.


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This is from under the clutch master and the worst part of the engine bay. Rails look good still. Under the battery is not as bed either.

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Jonbill, great idea. I had an old tire I was going to use but this looks more stable. Rollers for sure.


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Have you inspected the shifter strike rod for leaks? There is an o-ring inside the tail housing that you can only replace if the gearbox is pulled.

Here is my thread about it:

There is also some notes about a lightened flywheel, let me know if you need a parts list for the clutch setup, I can get you the finalized parts list.

 

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Have you inspected the shifter strike rod for leaks? There is an o-ring inside the tail housing that you can only replace if the gearbox is pulled.
Here is my thread about it:
There is also some notes about a lightened flywheel, let me know if you need a parts list for the clutch setup, I can get you the finalized parts list.
 

Yes, absolutely I’d love that parts list. My current 5speed has a nasty whine inn second. Not sure what it is but I got a 5 speed from an 82 ZX to replace it. I haven’t checked the bushings.


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A thought I had but never tried is to use spring compressors on the front springs to stop the car from lifting as the weight is removed.  Not uncommon to run out of lift if you're using a cherry picker.  I had a chain hoist from the rafters so had plenty of travel.  Do your lifting calculations before you start.

Siteunseen/Cliff mentioned using a rope and a block of wood through the shifter hole to lift the back of the transmission if you install the engine and transmission together.  I always learn these good ideas after the fact.  I had a heck of a time trying to lift it from underneath the car to get the crossmember under it.  There's just no room.  Didn't have a load leveler either, but those only have so much adjustment anyway.

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Note this parts list is for a 240mm clutch, I like the feel, others have also advocated for the light flywheel, larger clutch combo.

I think this is everything, the Bearing Sleeve needs to match the pressure plate setup..... :ph34r:

Coutesey Nissan
Part Number    Part Name    Price    Quantity    Total
32862-E9300    Control Lever Boot    $5.94    1    $5.94
30501-K0404    Bearing Sleeve    $24.13    1    $24.13
32710-14600    Seal-Oil    $1.22    1    $1.22
30534-E9000    Clutch Release Arm Spring    $2.33    1    $2.33
30514-14600    Clutch Release Bearing Clip    $4.25    1    $4.25
32103-U840B    Plug-Drain    $8.82    1    $8.82

 

RockAuto

Exedy 06030 Clutch Kit $ 105.89

 

Amazon

Fidanza Flywheel 143281 -- $314.32

https://www.amazon.com/Fidanza-143281-Aluminum-Flywheel/dp/B000ECTQ4A/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=fidanza+240z&qid=1626714849&sr=8-5

 
Edited by heyitsrama
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Thank you!
What the difference between
The 225mm and 240mm clutch? I under it’s a different size but what does that translate to in regards to driving? I’m not racing this car on a track just want a fun, reliable car to enjoy driving on the streets.


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To my understanding a smaller diameter clutch will bite/engage harder because of the reduced surface area and mass. With the larger clutch you retain the engaging characteristics to be closer to "OEM" yet are able to get the benefit of a lighter flywheel (better throttle response).

I'm quite happy with the setup. perhaps others can chime in....

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Thanks. Rock auto has the Exedy 06030 Clutch kit in stock . About to order but it says for 2+2?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1982,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209350,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993

Would this work with the stock fly wheel? Might opt to just lighten the extra fly wheel I have but just what to be sure. Will probably go with the Findaza


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I think the 240mm clutch setup will work with a stock flywheel as long as the bearing sleeve has also been replaced to match the pressure plate.

I was not able to find an economical solution to get my OEM flywheel lightened, it was cheaper for me to order the fidanza one, I called up Rebello and asked if they recommended a shop in the area that could do it for me, but the gent on the phone said that they just order them new/lightend.

Take a look at the thread I linked, i have some references to Exedys product catalogs.

@EuroDat helped me out when i was looking for parts/fixing the rattle, maybe he can confirm my understandings....

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The bolt patterns are different between 225 and 240 clutches.  I think that the Fidanza flywheel might be drilled for either, but if you go with a Nissan flywheel you need to use the pressure plate that matches the flywheel.

p.s. the 225 mm flywheels are almost impossible to find on the aftermarket.  Everybody has gone to 240 mm only.  You can get the clutch kits but not the flywheels.  Something to consider if you find a problem with your flywheel.

https://www.fidanza.com/products/aluminum-flywheel-143281?variant=11938804858923

Edited by Zed Head
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Thanks, both of you have totally cleared the fog on this. Once again the rock auto website says (2+2 ) model for Exedy kit, that’s not a issue for my std 2 seater?
I’m ordering the Exedy 06030 clutch kit and Fidanza Fly Wheel today.
I really appreciate the help here.


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Didn’t see it mentioned in the threads above. There are 3 extra bolt locations on the 240mm pressure plate. I had extrasffor my install. Not sure if they are NLA.

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Didn’t see it mentioned in the threads above. There are 3 extra bolt locations on the 240mm pressure plate. I had extrasffor my install. Not sure if they are NLA.

So are you saying I need to find additional bolts to attach the Fly
Wheel?


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On 7/19/2021 at 12:13 PM, Av8ferg said:


So are you saying I need to find additional bolts to attach the Fly
Wheel?

No, the patterns are different.  The 240 mm is three sets of three holes, and the 225 is six evenly spaced holes.  You can see it in the pressure plates.  You can't use a 225 plate on a 240 flywheel, or vice-versa.  Edit - this statement might not be correct.  CREATE DO LOOP - 

 

225 (8 7/8")

image.png

240 (9 1/2")

image.png

Edited by Zed Head
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Thanks ZH. So as long as I get the Fidnaza flywheel you sent above and the Exedy 240mm clutch kit, I should be good to go?


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46 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

No, the patterns are different.  The 240 mm is three sets of three holes, and the 225 is six evenly spaced holes.  You can see it in the pressure plates.  You can't use a 225 plate on a 240 flywheel, or vice-versa.

240 (9 1/2")

image.png

If you are using a Fidnaza flywheel it wont make any difference which pressure plate you use. Both the 225mm and 240mm will fit the Fidnaza flywheel. The 240mm pressure plate has 9 bolts, but I have heard only 6 are used on the Fidnaza flywheel.

I am using a 280ZX 2+2 (240mm) lightened flywheel to about 16lbs and a stansard 240mm clutch. Works great and has a light feel.

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I have the Fidanza flywheel/Excedy OEM clutch on my high(er) compression F54 with a .480 lift cam. It's great. And holds just fine.

I don't have too much in the way of sound deadening in my car, so I noticed a little more noise from the transmission with the lightened flywheel. But after a week or so, I stopped noticing it.

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I have the Fidanza flywheel/Excedy OEM clutch on my high(er) compression F54 with a .480 lift cam. It's great. And holds just fine.

I don't have too much in the way of sound deadening in my car, so I noticed a little more noise from the transmission with the lightened flywheel. But after a week or so, I stopped noticing it.


Me too!! The only difference is I went for a 2+2 turbo exedy clutch to hold the extra torque. Absolutely love the effect of the fidanza!
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Okay the Exedy clutch and Fidanza fly wheel arrived yesterday.
I’ve decided to attempt to pull the engine and transmission as one unit. I’m going to use neither (engine or transmission again). I have a 280zx transmission I cracked open last summer and many of you help in that endeavor (EuroDat, Zed Head, And Dave WM to name a few). It was like a primitive ape looking at the inside of a iPhone....clueless.
I think my current transmission has issues so this is the most efficient path forward. I need (want) to paint the transmission to match my block first.
Question regarding motor mounts. What’s the consensus? Do these need to be replaced when I swap engines or is there some inspection that determines their usability? Had not thought of that but I know many other cars these mounts needs periodic replacement. My Dad used to have a 944 and that thing ate Motor Mounts every 50k miles it seamed. That was a great great car BTW.
This is me when I was 18 driving my Dads 944. What a car for an 18 year old kid....dangerous, what was my Dad thinking
66a87a417d8bbeb11b7601efd698903f.jpg


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