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1 hour ago, Alexg280z said:

What can I do to fix this? Do you guys need me to take any measurements of particular things. Please let me know!. 

You were correct earlier when you said you would need to pull the transmission.

Once you do, make the search like Zed Head suggested for the threads that discuss clutch plate stacked heights. You will very likely need a new collar to work with the clutch you installed. Although there is the possibility that the clutch fork is damaged.

We can advise further once we see pics of the fork, pivot and clutch setup

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On 4/13/2021 at 3:39 PM, Patcon said:

You were correct earlier when you said you would need to pull the transmission.

Once you do, make the search like Zed Head suggested for the threads that discuss clutch plate stacked heights. You will very likely need a new collar to work with the clutch you installed. Although there is the possibility that the clutch fork is damaged.

We can advise further once we see pics of the fork, pivot and clutch setup

A friend had a clutch collar off a 280z so I just sent it and it worked perfectly. Finally after a year I've finally been able to drive the car! She runs hot however 😕 water pump is probably bad because water is leaking, might need some new radiator, and some other stuff here and there. Carbs need a little tuning because they don't do well under heavy load like when I do a pull. Thanks for all the help guys. 

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On 4/19/2021 at 1:16 AM, Alexg280z said:

A friend had a clutch collar off a 280z so I just sent it and it worked perfectly. Finally after a year I've finally been able to drive the car! She runs hot however 😕 water pump is probably bad because water is leaking, might need some new radiator, and some other stuff here and there. Carbs need a little tuning because they don't do well under heavy load like when I do a pull. Thanks for all the help guys. 

I’m back! Only took a week 😞. Carbs are acting up (again) rear carb works perfectly fine. Runs a little rich but nothing bad. Front carb is not doing it’s job at all! Runs super lean no mater how low I put the mixture screw. I used the technique of pushing up the piston about a mm at 1250rpm and the engine starts to die when I do it on the front but will increasing on the rear. I thought it might’ve been my float so I increased the float from 16mm to 12mm. Didn’t do anything. I removed the jet from the bottom and the fuel came out just fine from it. Adjusted the nut all the way up and push the piston up to put the jet back in. Could it be a needle issue? 

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It can only be a few things.

The piston doesn't rise properly (needle dragging of the piston is bound up somehow

The needle valve is restricting fuel

A fuel restriction between the carb and the fuel rail

Possible the jet flex line is damaged internally

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5 minutes ago, Patcon said:

It can only be a few things.

The piston doesn't rise properly (needle dragging of the piston is bound up somehow

The needle valve is restricting fuel

A fuel restriction between the carb and the fuel rail

Possible the jet flex line is damaged internally

Piston rises just fine. Needle doesn’t appear to be dragging off. 

not quite sure what is the needle valve

Fuel is coming to the carb. Just don’t know if it’s going past the needle.

the jet line has been replaced

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Also if all of the above are correct...

It must be one of the following:

the bajo bolt filter screens

Needle valve

Outlet in the bottom of the float boal

Jet line

or a blockage in the Jet

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2 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Needle valve is what rides on the float to fill the float bowl...

Jet line was replace with what type of line?

Ah I blew through the banjo to adjust the float so I don’t think it’s clogged. Plus I replaced the needle valve. The line was replaced with the line from z car depot. 

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2 minutes ago, Patcon said:

Also if all of the above are correct...

It must be one of the following:

the bajo bolt filter screens

Needle valve

Outlet in the bottom of the float boal

Jet line

or a blockage in the Jet

Banjo bolt filter was removed. Needle valve been replaced. Outlet at the bottom of the float is good. Jet line replaced. Jet is good. 

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3 minutes ago, Alexg280z said:

Banjo bolt filter was removed. Needle valve been replaced. Outlet at the bottom of the float is good. Jet line replaced. Jet is good. 

I would go back through these one by one. If fuel is coming off the rail port properly. It has to be at one of the locations.

Check the banjo bolt for trash

Check the needle valve for trash

Check the bottom of the float bowl for debris that could clog the drain

Check the jet line for a crimp or possible damage or a flap of rubber or trash blocking flow

Check at the bottom of the jet for trash

Be methodical, you'll find it

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14 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I would go back through these one by one. If fuel is coming off the rail port properly. It has to be at one of the locations.

Check the banjo bolt for trash

Check the needle valve for trash

Check the bottom of the float bowl for debris that could clog the drain

Check the jet line for a crimp or possible damage or a flap of rubber or trash blocking flow

Check at the bottom of the jet for trash

Be methodical, you'll find it

fuel lines are fine. Plenty of fuel comes out from the hoses. 
 

Banjo bolt clean 

needle valve clean

Fuel leaves the float bowl thru the jet fine it seems. Measured the bowl to have 17mm of fuel. 

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I would go back through these one by one. If fuel is coming off the rail port properly. It has to be at one of the locations.

Check the banjo bolt for trash

Check the needle valve for trash

Check the bottom of the float bowl for debris that could clog the drain

Check the jet line for a crimp or possible damage or a flap of rubber or trash blocking flow

Check at the bottom of the jet for trash

Be methodical, you'll find it

I have a feeling my jets and needles are not compatible. I changed the needles to n47 and they run super lean. I was running m43. I think I should buy some ztherapy jets and sm needles because there isnt any other reason as far as I see for the carbs not to run. 

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And the fuel nozzle is clear all the way up?

If everything is clear and you still have the lean condition on only one carb then you probably have an air leak somewhere on the lean carb or intake manifold

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Remove the dome and piston. The fuel level should be  3/8" down below the carb bridge. Turn the jet adjustment nut down 9.5-10 turns from the top position. The fuel level in the bowl should be at or near the top of the nozzle at 9.5 turns down. when you're satisfied with the float level return the nozzles to the appropriate height. Usually 2 1/2 - 3 turns down.

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Was thinking same thing as Patcon; a possible air leak in the one carb, spray around intake, etc, with carb cleaner and see if the idle changes.  Also, looking at the pic, it doesn't look like the fuel hose between the float bowl and carb is long enough to provide smooth up and down motion of the nozzle (might be the angle of the pic).

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16 hours ago, Alexg280z said:

I’m back! Only took a week 😞. Carbs are acting up (again) rear carb works perfectly fine. Runs a little rich but nothing bad. Front carb is not doing it’s job at all! Runs super lean no mater how low I put the mixture screw. I used the technique of pushing up the piston about a mm at 1250rpm and the engine starts to die when I do it on the front but will increasing on the rear. I thought it might’ve been my float so I increased the float from 16mm to 12mm. Didn’t do anything. I removed the jet from the bottom and the fuel came out just fine from it. Adjusted the nut all the way up and push the piston up to put the jet back in. Could it be a needle issue? 

There might be an air leak. I just don’t know where! I’ll look around. If you listen in this video I think you can hear it when I put the camera closer to the front carb. 

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5 hours ago, Patcon said:

And the fuel nozzle is clear all the way up?

If everything is clear and you still have the lean condition on only one carb then you probably have an air leak somewhere on the lean carb or intake manifold

Could this be an issue? Just found it

image.jpg

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Is the screw missing or installed from the other side? Looks like it's missing and I'd guess that's a problem, maybe unrelated to what you have going on but I would get one in there asap.

Edited by siteunseen
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15 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Is the screw missing or installed from the other side? Looks like it's missing and I'd guess that's a problem, maybe unrelated to what you have going on but I would get one in there asap.

Someone jammed it in and broke the head off....

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Alright did some work and got some results.

I had a three screw su carb butterfly assembly so I used that to replace my messed up one. Worried that this might cause an air leak on the sides of the carb because it felt slippery. Linkages should be fine because I removed all the brass pieces off the 3 screw and used the 4 screw linkage pieces. I only used the chrome piece that holds the butterfly.

Set the floats to 14mm in the front and 16mm in the back. Had to set the idle air screw to 3 turns. Only way it would start. RPM rises slowly so there is an air leak somewhere. I think the issue with the front carb not having enough fuel was due to an air leak like you all said. I took the manifold off and the manifold had bits and pieces of old gasket which I guess I forgot to take off when I put on the new gasket. Genius. The manifold was filled with fuel but it wasn't all going into the engine. You could see the ways it was escaping on the gasket. Just have to tighten the intake nuts a little more to stop the vacuum leak. 

I haven't tried fine tuning just yet because my neighborhood is complaining about the smell. Ill keep you all posted. 

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