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I followed the above and was able to  remove the old seal....but i am confused badly. Let me give some more info and images. In comparisons image you can see the old seal and the new one i just got. New has a metal ring around it. old one doesnt. However if you look at close up image you will see a metal ring around crankshaft. Is this from the seal? is this something else that should stay in and the seal go over? I dont see any way to take it off either. In close up #2, there is a small key channel to right of key, but it is SMALL and will not slide over key and i can't seem to get key out. Key looks fine although i do have a new one in case.

  

close up.jpg

comparison of seals.jpg

zoomed out.jpg

close up 2.jpg

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yikes, turning into a cluster. Not sure what the that chunky looking stuff is, second to last pic. is that gasket material? hard to tell what is going on. I think I see the oil pump drive in the 1st pic. the last pic looks ok, but that second to last is just odd.

You have a badly positioned key, slinger looks damaged. I would be tempted to just pull the cover and start all over. Making sure the key is correct any junk left over from the old seal is out and take a close up look at the slinger.

Edited by Dave WM
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You can buy a new key, they're around, and cheap.  Wrap some tape around the snout so you don't gouge anything and rip that key out of there.  Then get some bright light and magnifying tools to see what you're working with.

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-00926-51600-Genuine-Crank-Woodruff/dp/B013EWNDRC

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z/piston-crankshaft/10

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/piston-crankshaft/10

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ok. was hoping this dang seal was pictured on there somewhere....i am still not 100% on exactly where it goes.. i assume b/t 16 & 12

 

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I had a motor failure a long time ago resulting from a recip A/C compressor causing uneven torque pulses on the crank snout.  The harmonic damper's woodruff key wallowed out the keyway.

Rather than weld up and recut the woodruff groove, the machinist suggested cutting one continuous key way and using one long straight square key.  Perfect!  It solves every problem with woodruff keys and presents no problems I've yet to encounter.

I know this doesn't help much unless you end up with a bigger problem.  🤯

Edited by ETI4K
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20 hours ago, Wally said:

I followed the above and was able to  remove the old seal....but i am confused badly. Let me give some more info and images. In comparisons image you can see the old seal and the new one i just got. New has a metal ring around it. old one doesnt. However if you look at close up image you will see a metal ring around crankshaft. Is this from the seal? is this something else that should stay in and the seal go over? I dont see any way to take it off either. In close up #2, there is a small key channel to right of key, but it is SMALL and will not slide over key and i can't seem to get key out. Key looks fine although i do have a new one in case.

  

close up.jpg

comparison of seals.jpg

zoomed out.jpg

close up 2.jpg

Never seen a crank pulley seal with a metal flange like that. Always fully covered in rubber.

Also, it is best to install the seal with the cover off of the engine. I lay the cover on a flat surface, such as a clean sheet of plywood, with a clean shop towel on it. Then I set the seal in the opening, and lay a 2x4 on top, taking care to hold the seal square and true to the opening. I use a large deadblow hammer to set the seal into the hole, driving it flush with the front of the cover.

There isn’t anything to keep the seal from being pushed all the way through, so using the method described here ensures the seal is placed squarely and at the correct depth.

Grease the seal where it rides on the snout of the pulley, and install the cover.

For the woodruff key, I use a dab of grease to hold it in place while sliding the pulley on. The pulley should slide on easily, never force it. If it takes more effort than using your hands, something is wrong. Figure out what and correct the problem. It helps to test fit before getting to final assembly, before the cover is installed, to be sure it is ready to go.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

sorry for the delay in replying here. works been nuts. I got off the oil pan and timing cover. here is a good look at everything. Slinger is a little bent, so ordered a new one. The woodruff key is freakin in there super tight. 

I have a new key though. so i guess i will force it out some how.  Any advice on what i should do after that? still not sure exactly where the new seal goes on

IMG_2198.jpg

IMG_2197.jpg

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Seals just get pressed in until they are flush with the surface they are being inserted in to.  That's about it.  Tap, tap, tap around the edges or on a blcok of wood on top of the seal.  Done when the front edges are flush.

Here;s a picture from the 73 FSM showing your slinger/thrower and key, as they should be.  The early FSM's with their pictures are sometimes better than the drawings.

image.png

Since the key is circular on the bottom you could take a wide punch or steel bar (or brass or aluminum) and just tap/beat on the raised portion of the key to try to break it free.  It's raised up in the back because it rode up the back of the keyway on the curved bottom when the last guy installed the damper.  Or, since you have a new slinger you could just bend that old one out of the way to give you more room and tap the key from the back.

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Posted (edited)

thanks. yep gonna cut off the slinger and vice grip out the key. should the key be with round part on bottom and flat end completely level? b/c currently the one in is at a 45degree angle upward

 

Edited by Wally
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4 hours ago, Wally said:

IMG_2197.jpg

Unrelated to the harmonic balancer key, but I got a question.

Your timing chain tensioner is really sticking out pretty far... Is the head off, or is everything up top still in place? Timing chain wrapped around the cam gear and everything?

if the answer is "yes, everything is installed and engaged", then I think it's time for a new timing chain and guides.

Edited by Captain Obvious
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12 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Unrelated to the harmonic balancer key, but I got a question.

Your timing chain tensioner is really sticking out pretty far... Is the head off, or is everything up top still in place? Timing chain wrapped around the cam gear and everything?

if the answer is "yes, everything is installed and engaged", then I think it's time for a new timing chain and guides.

here are a couple more images. Its all on, and engine would crank and run b/f i took it out. I can't see where the chain has moved any or how it even could. Does this show any better if a new chain is needed?

Also, just looked in the "port" where i guess the water pump goes over...its rusted. Is this normal, should i put a brush in there and try to clean?

IMG_2201.jpg

IMG_2200.jpg

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Yeah, that definitely doesn't look right. Something wrong with the chain and tensioner, etc.

Chain stretch, guide wear, gear wear... All together is allowing the tensioner to be waaaaay too far out. I think you need to pull the valve cover off and probably do a whole timing set. Easy at this point since you're in so far already.

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I agree with Captain Obvious. That chain tensioner looks extended too far. You might have some serious chain stretch going on. Another possibility is when you rotate the engine (clockwise -looking at chain) and then back it off going CCW you might see some chain slack build up on the left but it still looks like you have too much. Here a pic of my tensioner and chain following my rebuild.

9cf5933a7d478f7848e0648202b8c253.jpg&key=9fb7136e37519cebf85f972c25c541e407c342938575c69e2e6452c363bb3ba3


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Posted (edited)

I see that now. thanks guys. New timing kit on the way. i think i can put that on no issues. However, i am not sure about timing.... does that need to be redone?

Edited by Wally
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its easy just follow the FSM start with #1 TDC compression stroke. new chain will have two shine links to help with getting it setup up. You can see the bottom shine link on the av8 pic, lower link dot on cam sprocket.

Edited by Dave WM
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