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Series 1 Gas tank install questions...


70z4fun

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Greetings all, Happy New Year

 

I finally pulled my gas tank out of my series one car.  I noticed a few things that I don't have answers to, so I thought I would post here:

 
 
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1. On the fuel gauge wiring, there are four wires there, with the two going to the fuel sender unit. What are the other two? Looks like there are three mounting holes near by, so did they wire for an electric fuel pump?  Can't think what those wires might be for?

2. In some of the posts about getting the fuel filler hose out, they said something about a panel that removes in the right rear wheel well. I don't see that on the car? Is that something the later year cars have? Or is the undercoating covering some screws?

3. The filler hose is mounted with three screws from underneath. I am wondering if using a hex bolt might make it easier when someone removes them 40 years from now? I know that makes it not original....

4. What type of hose clamps would use on all these vent lines? I have some original wire type, but was thinking stainless clamps might be a better option?

5. Any thoughts on where I can get the black rubber caps for the fuel level sender?

6. Any tips for running the vent lines and reinstalling the tank? Got all my hoses all ready,Getting the tank done by a local radiator shop that seem to be familiar with these tanks. 

Thanks again and I welcome your advice

 

Edited by 70z4fun
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I can't see the pic you posted as it is all black on my screen but going from a gas gauge I have on the shelf, it only has 3 wires in a 4 wire connector.  2 of those wires are to the fuel level sender, the other is a ground.

2 Yes you should chip off all the undercoating and the screws should be underneath.

3 All depends on how original you want to be,  hex bolt is easier to remove than a rusty Phillips screw

4 Same as above, SS will do the job.

5 http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Boots/boots.html

 

 

 

IMG_0730.JPG

Edited by grannyknot
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8 hours ago, 70z4fun said:

Greetings all, Happy New Year

 

I finally pulled my gas tank out of my series one car.  I noticed a few things that I don't have answers to, so I thought I would post here:

 
 
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Current Time 0:19
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1x

1. On the fuel gauge wiring, there are four wires there, with the two going to the fuel sender unit. What are the other two? Looks like there are three mounting holes near by, so did they wire for an electric fuel pump?  Can't think what those wires might be for?

2. In some of the posts about getting the fuel filler hose out, they said something about a panel that removes in the right rear wheel well. I don't see that on the car? Is that something the later year cars have? Or is the undercoating covering some screws?

3. The filler hose is mounted with three screws from underneath. I am wondering if using a hex bolt might make it easier when someone removes them 40 years from now? I know that makes it not original....

4. What type of hose clamps would use on all these vent lines? I have some original wire type, but was thinking stainless clamps might be a better option?

5. Any thoughts on where I can get the black rubber caps for the fuel level sender?

6. Any tips for running the vent lines and reinstalling the tank? Got all my hoses all ready,Getting the tank done by a local radiator shop that seem to be familiar with these tanks. 

Thanks again and I welcome your advice

 

Yeah, your pic is not showing but your questions are pretty straightforward in describing the situation.

1. The wiring harness at the tank does include connections for a electric fuel pump in addition to leads for the sender.

2. Yes, there is a removable panel on the right side, held in place with three very small philips-head screws.

3. Your choice of screws for this collar, its doubtful anyone will really notice a swap.

4. The OE hose clamps are superior in all aspects to the the common SS clamps at most auto supply stores. I highly recommend using them wherever possible.

5. Grannyknot covered this one.

6. Get all your vent lines installed in the body and protruding under the car. Position the tank under the car and attach the vent lines - a floor jack works well for this. Raise the tank into final position - a bit of lube on the filler pipe will assist it in sliding into the filler tube. Secure the tank straps. Been there, done that!

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This thread was very helpful when I did my tank and vent lines. It starts off the exact opposite of what we need to know but turns very informative later on. Plenty of pictures too. 

Edit: maybe that wasn't it! this shows the passenger's side shield and explains the fill hose better...

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

here's another good one...

 

Edited by siteunseen
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1. Little known fact in some circles: The green wire in that bundle comes from under the dash. In back of the center console there is an unused (in the U.S. model) 2-pin ("T" type) connector with a Black/White wire and (the other end of that) Green wire. The Black (ground) is attached to the unibody under the hatch somewhere.  Black/White of course is battery voltage at ignition ON. 

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Thanks for the feedback.

Got those rubber boots and other things ordered.

So, do I need to remove the inner fender panel to install the tank? Looks like I can install the filler hose flange underneath and then push up the new flexible hose to the filler flange. I can see this panel coming off easily, since the undercoating is think, and the screws look small.....

IMG_1609.JPG

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Removal of the panel generally makes access to the filler tube easier, might also help in accessing the small vent lines in that area when getting the tank back in.

BTW - removal of the panel usually requires removal of the RR tire so its up to you as to the amount of work you want all of it to be.

Edited by jfa.series1
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4 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

Removal of the panel generally makes access to the filler tube easier, might also help in accessing the small vent lines in that area when getting the tank back in.

BTW - removal of the panel usually requires removal of the RR tire so its up to you as to the amount of work you want all of it to be.

I removed that panel yesterday without removing the tire, it was actually quite easy (the car is up on jack stands so maybe that helped make it easier to remove the panel with the tire still on).

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Thanks for the information.

No problem taking the wheel off, I just did not want to mess with the undercoating inside the wheel well

 

Any thoughts on the stainless tank straps that some vendors have available? I could clean up mine, but stainless sounds nice.....

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