loose Distributor CAP = Perfect idle

[ira]

1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Your talking inches right? then you mean 0.04!   (in mm it's 1.0-1.1mm)  so 0.04 x25,4mm is 1.016 mm is OK.

Correct, i did .04

 

whats an acceptable ohm reading between the batter negative and the chassis main ground?  and should that be somewhat close to a point on the engine/manifold?

[dutchzcarguy]

20 hours ago, ira said:

an acceptable ohm reading between the batter negative and the chassis main ground?

Basically all metal should indicate zero Ohms.. (you will have always a bit like 0.05 to 0.15 ohms or so in the leads and the contact you try to make..)

Acceptable is a reading of max 1 ohm or so.. (if you close your meter cables you must read something like 0,1 ohms or less.. if more you can deduct the numbers.. example.. you close your meter leads together and it reads 0.8 ohm.. you measure between batt minus and the engine 1,9 ohms.. your real resistance between the engine and the batt minus is 1,9 - 0,8 = 1,1 ohms.. this is acceptable.

Best is of course R= 0.01 - 0,2 ohms.  If you make all the contacts very clean and spray some coppergrease you will get that.

Edited November 9, 2020 by dutchzcarguy

[ira]

On 11/9/2020 at 6:21 AM, dutchzcarguy said:

Basically all metal should indicate zero Ohms.. (you will have always a bit like 0.05 to 0.15 ohms or so in the leads and the contact you try to make..)

Acceptable is a reading of max 1 ohm or so.. (if you close your meter cables you must read something like 0,1 ohms or less.. if more you can deduct the numbers.. example.. you close your meter leads together and it reads 0.8 ohm.. you measure between batt minus and the engine 1,9 ohms.. your real resistance between the engine and the batt minus is 1,9 - 0,8 = 1,1 ohms.. this is acceptable.

Best is of course R= 0.01 - 0,2 ohms.  If you make all the contacts very clean and spray some coppergrease you will get that.

Sorry for delayed reply, been under the weather.

i managed to clean the ground but i still get a reading of 31.4 ohms.  

i received the color tune plug.  but the vids fail to upload here, let me see if i can make them smaller and upload again

also i changed the plugs cables only.  as i still didnt get the cap & rotor.

attached is a pic of Spark plug #6 after new cables.

[ira]

ok, here are the vids.  best viewed using VLC player...

i also cleaned up the PCV valve w carb cleaner and made sure its moving freely 

[dutchzcarguy]

Vid's tell me almost nothing..  engine has hick-ups.. I looks like a electrical problem.. there are many parts that could be the culprit. Maybe you could change a part and look if it's gone.. do this with all electric parts that could cause the problem.

8 hours ago, ira said:

i managed to clean the ground but i still get a reading of 31.4 ohms.  

31,4 ohms between battery minus and chassis?? that's much to high!   Clean contacts, use a contact cleaner. Get it under 1 ohms..

[ira]

4 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Vid's tell me almost nothing..  engine has hick-ups.. I looks like a electrical problem.. there are many parts that could be the culprit. Maybe you could change a part and look if it's gone.. do this with all electric parts that could cause the problem.

31,4 ohms between battery minus and chassis?? that's much to high!   Clean contacts, use a contact cleaner. Get it under 1 ohms..

someone here asked me to post a the vids using color tune plug.  they wanted to see if car was running rich or lean.

changing the cables resulted in a good burn on plug6.  if you recall that one was always wet and dark.

next i will change cap and rotor.  i believe the distributor is the correct one.

are there any sensors i need to test? or should i look at the AFM to see if needs any clean up?

[Dave WM]

9 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Vid's tell me almost nothing..  engine has hick-ups.. I looks like a electrical problem.. there are many parts that could be the culprit. Maybe you could change a part and look if it's gone.. do this with all electric parts that could cause the problem.

31,4 ohms between battery minus and chassis?? that's much to high!   Clean contacts, use a contact cleaner. Get it under 1 ohms..

just to confirm the above, I checked with my DVM the neg post to the engine block, .1 ohms.

So yes if you are getting 31.4 ohms from those locations you have a problem. I would start with the easy stuff, like the cleaning the battery post and cable connection. NO use of dielectric grease please. Just check from the center of the post to the battery cable clamp from there chase the battery clamp to the engine fire wall and starter. You have got to get that down to the sub 1 ohm reading.

[ira]

18 hours ago, Dave WM said:

just to confirm the above, I checked with my DVM the neg post to the engine block, .1 ohms.

So yes if you are getting 31.4 ohms from those locations you have a problem. I would start with the easy stuff, like the cleaning the battery post and cable connection. NO use of dielectric grease please. Just check from the center of the post to the battery cable clamp from there chase the battery clamp to the engine fire wall and starter. You have got to get that down to the sub 1 ohm reading.

battery post and cable connections are brand new.  did some cleaning on other areas now im reading 8.3ohms.  i will keep going with this cleaning, but meanwhile, are there any other parts, valves, sensors i should be testing?

are there any parts require cleaning of some sort such as the AFM?

do you think i would benefit at all from an odb2 reader? i have access to a Kent Moore J28835 ECCS Analyzer but no manual.

Edited November 17, 2020 by ira

[Dave WM]

no obd this early a car. Really don't understand the high resistance. You are reading from the battery post to the engine block right? also from the battery post to the car frame. You should be able to trace from each connection point to find the resistance. start with the battery post neg to the wire lug that connects to the fire wall right off the lead from the battery. Perhaps you have a poor connection thru a fuse link (IIRC there is a fuse link in series with that wire, I may be wrong about that will check later). Its just a matter of wire tracing with the ohm meter.

[ira]

4 hours ago, Dave WM said:

no obd this early a car. Really don't understand the high resistance. You are reading from the battery post to the engine block right? also from the battery post to the car frame. You should be able to trace from each connection point to find the resistance. start with the battery post neg to the wire lug that connects to the fire wall right off the lead from the battery. Perhaps you have a poor connection thru a fuse link (IIRC there is a fuse link in series with that wire, I may be wrong about that will check later). Its just a matter of wire tracing with the ohm meter.

yeah, will do..i have been really under the weather. last night had to replace water pump on my wife's Camry .  it was cold and now back to being weak.

the 8.2ohm reading i see now is directly from batt Neg to the screw or connection point just below the battery tray which is less that 2 feet away.  im also getting the same 8.2 on a screw point on the intake manifold.

one of the 4 gauge black cables down below ( on the body screw area)  has some green residue build up.  it tried to clean it w Carb spray and scrub but no go

should i use brake cleaner?

[Yarb]

Use some 400 grit Emory cloth. Need to get everything down to bare metal. Including inside the eyelet of the cable.

[Zed Head]

You can run an extra ground wire also.  I had a couple on my car.  You don't know what's happening along the length of the wire whose end you are cleaning.  Run a new wire, confirm good ground, see if the problem is fixed.

Edited November 17, 2020 by Zed Head
run