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Install Engine With Trans, or Engine Then Trans?


sfm6s524

Install Engine With Trans, or Engine Then Trans?  

11 members have voted

  1. 1. Install engine and trans as unit? Or install engine, then trans?

    • Install engine and trans as unit, just like FSM says.
      10
    • Install engine, then trans, a little extra work.
      1


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I guess I should also mention that the poll needs a third choice.

“Choose the method that best suits the goal. If only the engine or transmission need to be removed for repairs, remove that item separately. If the reason for removal includes repairs to both, or work on the chassis requires the removal of both, pull them as a single unit.”

 

Edited by Racer X
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4 hours ago, Racer X said:

I guess I should also mention that the poll needs a third choice.

“Choose the method that best suits the goal. If only the engine or transmission need to be removed for repairs, remove that item separately. If the reason for removal includes repairs to both, or work on the chassis requires the removal of both, pull them as a single unit.”

 

 I agree.  Any of the three ways are a piece of cake compared to removing and replacing those parts on most cars.

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I understood the original question to be "If both engine and transmission are out, is it better to install the engine and transmission as a unit, or drop the engine in first and then the transmission". In that case I would always do them as a unit unless something (maneuvering room, availability of a leveler) prevents it. If only the engine or the transmission needs to be removed, then yeah, only remove that - no need to remove both just to service one. 

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28 minutes ago, pogden said:

I understood the original question to be "If both engine and transmission are out, is it better to install the engine and transmission as a unit, or drop the engine in first and then the transmission". In that case I would always do them as a unit unless something (maneuvering room, availability of a leveler) prevents it. If only the engine or the transmission needs to be removed, then yeah, only remove that - no need to remove both just to service one. 

I would remove both to service one, I'm old and it's much less difficult than under the car

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I ended up buying an inexpensive Harbor Freight lift.  I was able to get the engine out but the hydraulics in the lift were not strong enough to hold the load up for any period of time.  When I put it back in, I am going to use my tractor and loader in the driveway along with two sons to guide it in.

I read a previous post where using the two factory lift points was a bad idea.  Someone said they are not strong enough and would break.  From the pics, it looks like everyone is using those.  Has anyone had any problems?

BTW, the rope through the transmission tunnel is an excellent idea. 

Edited by 87mj
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1 hour ago, 87mj said:

I read a previous post where using the two factory lift points was a bad idea.  Someone said they are not strong enough and would break.  From the pics, it looks like everyone is using those.  Has anyone had any problems?

I have a set of the factory lifting brackets that I use for engine removal and installation. Used them dozens of times swinging engine and engine/transmission in and out of my Z cars. After use they go back int the tool box to be used the next time they are needed.

Never had a bit of trouble with them.

Edited by Racer X
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The intake studs could be an issue with the factory lift points. I have never had an issue. You could just wrap a chain around the manifold in the rear which would spread the load over more studs. The rear point does the lions share of the work

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3 hours ago, Racer X said:

I have a set of the factory lifting brackets that I use for engine removal and installation. Used them dozens of times swinging engine and engine/transmission in and out of my Z cars. After use they go back int the tool box to be used the next time they are needed.

Never had a bit of trouble with them.

Any chance you could post a sketch or pictures of your factory lifting brackets. I will be pulling my engine soon, transmission is already out.

Cheers, Mike

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4 minutes ago, CanTechZ said:

Any chance you could post a sketch or pictures of your factory lifting brackets. I will be pulling my engine soon, transmission is already out.

Cheers, Mike

I'll try to get some photos soon. I also promised @Captain Obvious photos of the underside of my 72, but have been working lots of overtime lately, and can't seem to budget time for that, so bear with me.

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OK, a quick and dirty cell phone pic.

The long one with 2 holes bolts on the right front side of the cylinder head just behind the fuel pump. The small one with one hole goes on the last exhaust manifold stud on the left rear of the head. My engine sling has tabs on the ends of the chains, and I use a 5/16” bolt, 2 fender washers, and a wing nut on each one to attach to the lifting fittings.328BC2FB-1FB0-44A2-B904-A60C062E8832.jpeg

 

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3 hours ago, Racer X said:

OK, a quick and dirty cell phone pic.

The long one with 2 holes bolts on the right front side of the cylinder head just behind the fuel pump. The small one with one hole goes on the last exhaust manifold stud on the left rear of the head. My engine sling has tabs on the ends of the chains, and I use a 5/16” bolt, 2 fender washers, and a wing nut on each one to attach to the lifting fittings.328BC2FB-1FB0-44A2-B904-A60C062E8832.jpeg

 

Do you leave yours on?

I took mine off after I dropped the motor in but I've seen them on quite a few motors from the pictures people post.

I have a box for "temporary parts" that those and the tie down hooks a lot of people have on their rear bumper brackets are in. It's on the top shelf, covered with dust. 

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11 hours ago, 87mj said:

I read a previous post where using the two factory lift points was a bad idea.  Someone said they are not strong enough and would break.  From the pics, it looks like everyone is using those.  Has anyone had any problems?

I've done that install and removal many times with no problem, just be sure to tighten the nut on the rear manifold stud so the chain or bracket is snug up against the cylinder head.  That spreads the load out into the head and keeps the threads from being damaged.

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Okay, had my grandson Jake over to help put the engine and trans back into the car.   I made some longer sling brackets so the lift chain would clear the valve cover and curve inside the smog air galley tube.

Went well, took about 90 minutes.  Thought I measured right, but no.  That extra ~1" distance the 73 bumper sticks out was an issue.  The hydraulic jack on lift was over the top of the bumper, which should have come off.  Had to push engine back a bit to land on motor mount pad.  New early style bumpers in the rafters ready to install, need to get some bumper brackets.  Right side motor mount bolts were the biggest challenge, and of course the drive shaft bolts are always fun.  

Time lapse video below.  Hopefully startup in a couple weeks.

 

IMG_6237.jpg

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