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The blue 510


grannyknot

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got a bunch of stuff done in the past couple of weeks, when I bought the headliner it came in a small box and was badly creased, I stapled it to  some 1"x2" and hung it on the wall, a year and a half later the creases have worked themselves out.  So got the headliner hung by the bows, the exhaust system almost finished, the rest of the engine put together, door glass and quarter windows installed.

Also the hood and trunk lid are done.

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Edited by grannyknot
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I bought the headliner pre-made from a place on ebay, they also include a big sheet of extra fabric for the AB and C pillars, I even got the parcel self covered as well. It fits pretty well, there are some stitching irregularities but once I can get the car out into the sun I think most of that and a few wrinkles relax.  That is the first headliner I've done where it hangs from steel bows, steep learning curve.

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Hard to be a good quality axe, the 1st one is a heavy and tall, that's the splitting axe, 2nd is a Timber framers hatchet, 3rd is my brother's old practice throwing axe, he use to perform in those logging shows in the Pacific NW, 4th one is just a nice all round general axe, 5th is a very old Adz used for squaring up timber beams, the 6th pick is a Timber framer's slick, also used in old time ship building, basically a 2 handed chisel, great fun to use. 

 

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I got the engine started today!:love:  Couple of problems though and would appreciate any help.  The engine is a 4cyl 2.4L  KA24DE from a 1991 240sx, fuel injected, standard distributor with one ignition coil.

The engine won't start by turning the key, I have to turn the key to ON and use a remote hand switch connected to the starter?

Once the engine has started the revs seem normal until the engine starts warming up then the revs slowly climb to 1500-2000 and the revs cycle up and down, not hunting, the up/down cycle is predictable.    Thanks.

 

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11 hours ago, grannyknot said:

The engine won't start by turning the key, I have to turn the key to ON and use a remote hand switch connected to the starter?

Sounds like the keylock switches are not wired correct, on "START"  the fuelpump is activated? (as on "ON" ?) and is the ignition on "START" as it IS on "ON"?  (Obviously you got ignition on ON.. as it runs..)

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Haven't figured out the key/starter problem yet but had it running today and while the engine is warming up and the revs are normal and steady if I unplug the MAF the revs go anther 400 rpm higher, plug the MAF back in and they go back to normal, once the engine starts cycling unplugging the MAF makes no difference.

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It does sound like a mixture problem.  Any chance you have an air-fuel ratio meter handy?  🤓

I could envision a scenario where the mixture correction data lags the engine's response time, though I'm not sure at the moment how to correct it.  Is it fitted with a mass airflow sensor or an airflow meter? 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, ETI4K said:

It does sound like a mixture problem.  Any chance you have an air-fuel ratio meter handy?  🤓

I could envision a scenario where the mixture correction data lags the engine's response time, though I'm not sure at the moment how to correct it.  Is it fitted with a mass airflow sensor or an airflow meter? 

 

 

It has a MAF but it came with the engine so I have no idea if it works or not,  unplugging the MAF changes the rpm when at idle so I'm assuming that it works.

On 6/26/2021 at 5:26 PM, siteunseen said:

My d21 pickup did that too. It was the vacuum hoses that hook up right beside each other, 4 side by side if I remember right.

I removed all the pollution control vacuum lines when I rebuilt the engine, the only vacuum line left goes to the fuel regulator, I'm pretty sure there are no vacuum leaks as I've very careful to eliminate that possibility on reassembly.

13 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Sounds like the keylock switches are not wired correct, on "START"  the fuelpump is activated? (as on "ON" ?) and is the ignition on "START" as it IS on "ON"?  (Obviously you got ignition on ON.. as it runs..)

Fuel pump is working while cranking.

I disassembled the ignition switch today, cleaned and sanded the contacts, it seems to be working fine. I'm using a canam relay/fuse box to handle the fuel pump, ECCS and RUN, I did notice the RUN circuit isn't energized when the key is in the start position but is on in the ON position. In a pinch I guess I could run a momentary switch and dash mount it as a start button but I would rather solve the wiring problem first.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Have solved some problems and acquired others, fuel pump died on me so waiting a new to arrive soon, in the mean time  trying to finish the rest of the car. I had a set of 240z sunvisors on the self so tried them in the 510, they fit!  And fit perfectly, as if they might have been an possible option for Nissan.  Spoiler and front bumper are on, brakes and clutch are bled, the rear window is done, carpet kit is in (those wrinkles are not in the finished job).

Finished the SS threshold plates and installed the seats today, just need a fuel pump now.

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