Jump to content

IGNORED

1977 280z Light Restoration Project


Muzez

Recommended Posts

14 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Those transmissions are pretty tough, just run good quality oil in it.

I had seen on one of the chats that pennzoil synchromesh or redline were good choices. Is that still conventional wisdom? Have a few bottles of the pennzoil sitting on the bench for flushing the current 4 speed. 

13 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You might have a brake fluid leak.  

Yeah, when we picked it up, all the seals were blown on the brake master cylinder (made roading it home terrifying and slow for the friend who helped). Replaced it and 2 of the brake lines that had taken up permanent residence the master cylinder (picture shown is half way through the process). Cleaned up the area after and sprayed it with the locktight rust converter. Will never use that stuff again. Converted the rust okay, but it seeped under the tape a little bit and converted the painted surface to rust. Very impressive how fast it worked. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


9 hours ago, dmuzial said:

I had seen on one of the chats that pennzoil synchromesh or redline were good choices. Is that still conventional wisdom? Have a few bottles of the pennzoil sitting on the bench for flushing the current 4 speed. 

Personally, I wouldn't use quality oil to flush with unless I was feeling rich, I just use inexpensive ATF, it has lots of detergents in it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

What is being flushed?  The moving parts are self-cleaning and the non-moving parts aren't affected by "stuff" on them.

Sorry, flush was wrong word. Just draining and replacing the fluid. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Redline and Pennzoil Synchromesh are both good for the old Nissan transmissions.  Not much better that I've seen written about or tried.  There's a lot of buzz about the "Friction-Modified Synchromesh", but if you already have the regular stuff, not really worth spending extra.  Use the Synchromesh, I'd say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, S30Driver said:

Gm Friction Mod.JPG

Many have used this to improve shift feel & performance with excellent results, especially when cold.

Highly recommended ....

 

This is what I am using. Note the "Friction Modified" line on the label. Very important.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/3/2019 at 8:21 PM, Zed Head said:

Use the Synchromesh, I'd say.

Was surprised to see synchromesh listed on the approved list as I thought it was GL3. Will switch to the friction modified at next change. Napa was doing a deal; 4 bottles for $15. Couldn’t pass that up haha. 

 

Update: cleaned off the oil pan yesterday and covered it in paper towel. Came back today to find this new oil next to the transmission (Shiny line, middle left of photo). Guessing this means the rear main is shot?

613A369A-8697-4EED-B220-1962CFCBF7AB.jpeg

Also, saw some fluid (assuming transmission) coming from the sensor in the center of the photo. Is there a seal there? Or do these come lose over time?E98B4D8F-C5F0-47F0-9DE5-F67087809856.jpeg

E5392661-CF05-4CED-9EF3-0DB3F1E1140E.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Main seal most likely

*Long sigh* welp, going to get a lot of garage time this winter. ?

30 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

It might just need tightening but sometimes old units weep where the wire exits the housing.

Glad to hear that its nothing to worry about. When I pull the trans for the main seal, will clean up the transmission and dab some silicone for the weeping. 

Was reading last night about the nightmares associated with rear spindle removal. Is this pretty consistent across all S30s? Or prevalent with earlier years and higher miles? Praying that the lower mileage and lifetime garage storage will have helped this slightly, but maybe that is wishful thinking haha. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Plan on replacing the backup light switch, they are not too expensive and tend to leak internally.

Spindle pins are like the lottery, you will just have to cross that bridge when you get to it ....    My experience, usually one will put up a fight.  You can always take them to a shop with a big press for removal.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/4/2019 at 11:35 AM, Zed Head said:

Why?

Note the "Friction Modified" line on the label. Very important.

Honestly, not sure. But it's what I put in my very early transmission based on information from this site. People were recommending it. Limited experience, but it seems to work well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dmuzial, actually the leak could come from the rear engine seal or the front trans seal or both? but probably the rear engine seal.

As S30Driver said, could be either, my first spindle pins came out with a few wacks of a rubber mallet. I was thinking " what are these guys all whining about, that wasn't difficult", my second, third and fourth set all had to be heated to glowing red and a 60 ton press to get them to let go.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, grannyknot said:

dmuzial, actually the leak could come from the rear engine seal or the front trans seal or both? but probably the rear engine seal.

Either way, need to pull the transmission to find out so I will just wait on ordering parts until I know.

Debating dropping some seal sweller in there and seeing if it expands. Might just have shrunk with the <1k miles over the last decade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Quick update

Picked up the transmission. I have next week off so I will start taking it apart to get a look at the internals, seal, and refinish the exterior before reinstall. Does anyone know if there if there is a risk to the transmission being empty of fluids for a few weeks? 

Also started removing the spindle pins. Used the stack of washer approach which was working really well, but then the threads on the end of the spindle pin started to strip out. Seems to be coming out very slowly with wide punch and a few wacks of the hammer. Any risks to hammering this thing out? And/or is there a better way to do this?

IMG_20191215_202625.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Transmissions are drained and stored for yrs without any problems, you'll be okay.

Spindle pins, lots written on the subject, if yours are moving you're in luck.  You will need new pins now that the threads are damaged, try and get penetrating fluid in there and as long as the pin keeps moving well just keep hammering.  If it gets stuck hammer it back to where it was moving, more penetrant, use pair of Visegrips to spin it then keep wacking it in the original direction, take your time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

Transmissions are drained and stored for yrs without any problems, you'll be okay. 

Spindle pins, lots written on the subject, if yours are moving you're in luck.  You will need new pins now that the threads are damaged, try and get penetrating fluid in there and as long as the pin keeps moving well just keep hammering.  If it gets stuck hammer it back to where it was moving, more penetrant, use pair of Visegrips to spin it then keep wacking it in the original direction, take your time.

Thanks as usual @grannyknot, appreciate it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick update, no photos as I am running to take the dog to an appointment. Took a half-day today and did some wrenching. First control arm is off, as is most of the cross member that connects the rear-most bushing on the control arms.

Found that there was more surface rust on the differential than I would like, so I am going to drop the diff and refinish when I refinish the transmission. Fill and drain plugs are completely seized, so I am going to get some tube to act as a larger breaker. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Patcon said:

I couldn't get one out recently and used a 1/2" drive impact gun to remove it directly.

Dumb question: is there a risk of stripping or snapping the plug with an impact gun? 

Snapped a cross member bolt last night which is why I ask lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.