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About dmuzial

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My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
  • About my Cars
    1977 280z
    1991 300zx 2+2 (Sold)

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  1. Hey guys, Sorry for the delay in posting. Was heads down with all of the cleaning and powdercoating required to have the car ready to drive in April when my antique license plates come back into effect. Progress Report Rear of car has been completely disassembled All of the small frame pieces have been cleaned and powder coated. Prop shaft, drivers side rear hub and components are prepped and ready for paint when it warms up here Disassembling passenger side hub this week so I can prep it and the half-shafts Broke one of the bolts in the cross-member that connects the control arms, so I have to have someone tap it and reweld it which sucks. But lesson learned about heat over strength lol. Only bolt have broken thus far, so I feel good about it. General note: One thing that I found super cool. The prop shaft u-joints had a bunch of surface rust, but when they came out of the sand booth, all of the original factory text was visible. Picture below, super neat to seen. Was amazed how many factory paint markings from assembly were still visible under the undercoating layer. More to come soon!
  2. Looks great! I didn't know I wanted these, but magically my project budget just expanded slightly lol
  3. Okay, will return this one and get a new one. This one feels a little half baked. Thanks for all the responses guys!
  4. Dang it man, where where you 2 days ago before I dumped Dino oil all over my floor. :p I had the same issue roading the 5 speed back from Detroit. The thing rolled over and dumped all over the back of my company truck. Luckily it was in a garbage bag, so it just smelled terrible but didn't hit the carpet. For #1, that is amazing to hear, was worried For #2, will do. Probably way easier while it is out.
  5. Okay, I am back! And it has been a productive last couple of days. Propane torch and the jack worked great to break it loose and I was able to drain the differential of oil. I have now dropped the differential, mustache bar, cross members, drive shafts and a few other miscellaneous parts and pieces for clean up and powder coat prep. Few questions: 1. Is the propeller shaft different from the 4 speed to the 5 speed on the 77/78 280z? Saw a note of this on the Haynes manual related to 240z and 260z, but wanted to verify it was the same for 280zs as I was under the impression that the 5 speed was only an over drive gear. 2. I am new to restoration, is there anything I should be looking for or reconditioning on these drive shafts while they are out? (rubber, seals, grease points) and is there anything I should be wary of damaging when cleaning them up? 3. Is there a way to cap steel brake lines at the hub? Want to refinish the hubs, but trying to minimize how much brake fluid I waste as I just replaced it a few months ago. 4. How much play is considered acceptable for the input shaft from the transmission from the engine? See video below. It looks like there is roughly 1-2 mils if movement. IMG_2258.MOV
  6. @CanTechZ & @cgsheen Thanks for the link. I have a copy of that one, but I heard there was some good info in Haynes and it was worth grabbing one as a back up. I might have an early year or something though because it only mentions 280z in a few places. See photos below. Either way. Will go back to using the FSM
  7. Hi Guys, Ordered a used copy of the Haynes manual (ISBN 0856962066) but while it says it covers the 280z, the only 280z/L28 content is appended at the end in a ~30 page supplemental chapter. Does anyone have a new copy of the book and know if there is more detail om the 280z and/or better integration of 280z content?
  8. Does the trim itself provide the pressure? Or is there a secondary like small (breakable) clips or adhesive?
  9. Yikes. Was worried that was the case. How hard is the trim to take out?
  10. @Zed Head Not out yet. Wife is a nervous traveler so I was getting ready for the flight and closing up the house. Thanks for the suggestion. Will give it a spin when I get home
  11. Thanks guys! Ended up settling on the propane rather than Mapp because the wife can also use it for some kind of cooking activity she wants to try (Yay sweets + brownie points) and I am terrified of warping the aluminum lol. Going to be a little quiet on this thread for the next week as I am visiting the in-laws for the holidays. But I will post pictures of the transmission and differential clean up when I am back. Have 3 days slotted out to get dirty before the new year. In the meantime, I leave you guys with my next challenge. Need to start paint touch up and light rust removal. I have two spots under the door trim (pictured below) and a little rust inside the fuel door. I have never done any body work before, are there any good tutorials on this site that walk through best practices of body rust removal and paint matching? The paint was updated 10 years ago and while it's similar to the original silver paint, its slightly warmer (less blue). Trying to reach out to the original owner (Jason from Delaware, OH if he is on the forum) to see if he knows what paint they used. Touch up does not need to be perfect, but would love it not to be immediately noticeable. The car will eventually get a full repaint, but probably not next year so I want to get ahead of any rust spreading in the meantime. Happy Holidays Everyone!
  12. Dumb question: is there a risk of stripping or snapping the plug with an impact gun? Snapped a cross member bolt last night which is why I ask lol.
  13. Quick update, no photos as I am running to take the dog to an appointment. Took a half-day today and did some wrenching. First control arm is off, as is most of the cross member that connects the rear-most bushing on the control arms. Found that there was more surface rust on the differential than I would like, so I am going to drop the diff and refinish when I refinish the transmission. Fill and drain plugs are completely seized, so I am going to get some tube to act as a larger breaker.
  14. Thanks as usual @grannyknot, appreciate it!