grannyknot

Trouble shooting

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    Glad it's running!! Woot!!

    When (if?) you reach the point when you can talk about it, we're all ears.   LOL

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    I'm glad you feel lighter now! I won't tell anybody :ph34r:

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    Took my wife to ask me if I had gas in it, when I was trouble shooting a fuel issue.

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    53 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

    yeah, funny now.

    You got to learn to laugh at yourself. Your standard of workmanship probably does t see too many mistakes like this , but it will happen to the best of us. I’ve done many dumb things like this , but I do learn - until I do something different dumb - lol. 

    I would still like to have your skills for efficiency and class of work any day !

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    Man... It's still too early to admit that.  Must have really been eatin' at you.  

    Glad it's running!! We'll never speak of this again.   ROFL

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    Best kind of mistake.... easy to fix!

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    After my oversight I left the engine alone for a while and started doing other stuff, today I started the engine, brought the timing down to 10 degrees advance by adjusting the distibutor.  Idle is now 750 rpm with the idle screw turned out 2.5 turns  ( I'm sure I read somewhere that it should be turned out 6 full turns)  Does that sound about right for where the idle should be?

    The 1st pic is where the distributor is sitting now at 10 degrees, 2nd is warm oil pressure, pretty sure that is just those low reading sending units but I think I might install a modern sensor and gauge to find out.  The temp gauge never gets higher than this.

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    Edited by grannyknot

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    warm oil that looks normal for idle. If  you want to know for sure just get a reg oil pressure gauge. Do some research on the thread type, its not normally found on the gauge you are likely to find.

    Cold oil at idle should be in about the middle of the gauge.

    do you know what T stat you have installed? You can also just use a meat thermometer in the neck of the rad, cap off, let it warm up and see what it says.

     

    Edited by Dave WM

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    So the engine has been running well, I've been starting it every now and then to check for exhaust leaks, coolant leaks and such. Today I got the D/S seat installed  and started the engine to take it for the first drive, the engine started fine, ran for about 30 sec with the rpms roaming and then the rpms got lower and lower, I blipped the throttle and it momentarily reved up but went back down until it died. It started up again just fine but did the same routine and died within 10 sec, now it won't catch at all.

    Spark is good, fuel pump is on when I push the AFM door a bit,  sound like anything specific?  I haven't put the EFI bible away yet, guess I'll start at the beginging and YES the ECU is plugged in    this time.

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    Check to see if plugs are black.Could be too rich and plugs fouled.  If so it is most likely your temp sensor wiring open or crossed with another sensor.

    weeme.jpg

    Edited by 240260280

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    Just put 6 gal. fresh gas in the tank before I started it up, tank was cleaned and sealed, new fuel filter, new air filter.

    Will re install fuel pressure gauge this afternoon and check plugs for fouling.

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    So put the fuel pressure gauge back on between the filter and regulator and all is good, 35psi, pulled the plugs and they were still wet from yesterday, blew lots of gasoline vapour out of the cylinders, the plugs looked pretty good so cleaned them and re installed.  Turned the key and the engine started right up and settled down to an 800 rpm idle just like where I set it a couple of weeks ago. All is good with the world.

    I guess I blipped the throttle too many times and flooded it yesterday, not sure why the rpms went so low but it is not doing it now.  The spark plugs only have an 1.5 - 2hrs on them and there is a dark streak on one side of the insulator, can't say I've seen this before.

     

     

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    Well you know that if you don't find the root cause, it will absolutely happen again. Intermittent problems suck.

    Did you replace all the electrical connectors in the engine compartment? If the connector to the EFI temperature sensor isn't making great connection, it'll run very rich.

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    1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

    What test would you suggest?

    pull the CSV out and see if its leaking fuel. if its warm where you are (above 70f) see if it fires while cranking the engine (it should not).

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    On 7/22/2019 at 3:28 PM, grannyknot said:

    So the engine has been running well, I've been starting it every now and then to check for exhaust leaks, coolant leaks and such. Today I got the D/S seat installed  and started the engine to take it for the first drive, the engine started fine, ran for about 30 sec with the rpms roaming and then the rpms got lower and lower, I blipped the throttle and it momentarily reved up but went back down until it died. It started up again just fine but did the same routine and died within 10 sec, now it won't catch at all.

    I didn't read back through all of the posts but this one and the following kind of suggests either an ignition module going bad, too many sparks causes too much fuel, or an ECU going bad. Tthey tend to go rich first then just die.

    You mentioned what what the tachometer needle was doing when it was starting to die.  You talk about "roaming" and that's a sign of an ignition module dying.  Mine showed a jumpy needle, reading high, as it was kicking the bucket.

    A $25 GM HEI module is a simple quick test, and always good to have around anyway.

    Edited by Zed Head
    perfektionist

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