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Holy $^!# I bought a turd


mattjcr240

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1 hour ago, zKars said:

Interesting car. I love the ingenuity of the previous owner.

I'm SO going out and making an intake just like that one! I bet there is a cone air filter out front of the rad but yes, show us more pictures! I will not use exhaust tubing or crush bends however.. Wait, I don't have a Z at the moment.... oh well.

It's missing the heat shield which is why the carb return springs don't have a place to connect at the bottom, so what was done is what you see to make them a place to mount.

The PCV valve should be connected to the open block vent. The valve cover connects to the missing air cleaner housing as mentioned. 

Take heart. If it runs and stops you've got something to work with.

I suppose I can offer an air cleaner housing and heat shield so you can get that thing looking and working a bit more 'right" under that hood. 

hahah it does run and stop. seems to be running lean. and I'm not sure if I'll be able to sync the carbs properly with that tie connecting them. ill look into getting pcv valve. do you think the valve cover vent going in the carb will make for a lean condition? I should probably do something about that. I know it's got ugly square lights ...

20180913_183849.jpg

Edited by mattjcr240
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@mattjcr240That strange looking top on the front carb looks like the screw cap turned upside down with the "jiggly bits" and stem removed. Matt, unscrew the black knob on top of the rear carb, pull it out of the carb and compare it to what? is installed in the front carb. Front and rear should look the same. Pics please.

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I have some input. First, a little more detail about the PCV tube... One of the PCV valve's jobs is to meter the amount of air being pulled out of the crankcase, so it's not unmetered. It's reversed direction from the way it came from the factory, but only time will tell if that's acceptable or not.

The wire tie on the throttle linkage is necessary because a PO has removed the "throttle opener" device. It's an emissions thing that reduces emissions during deceleration by holding the throttle open a tiny amount. With that device removed, the linkage connection point for it is loose and flopping around on the linkage. That wire just keeps it from flopping loose. It's ugly, but doesn't really cause a problem. The "right" way to fix it would be to reinstall a throttle opener system.

As for the rod sticking out of the damper knob on the front carb? My guess is that's the end of the rod that is supposed to be pressed into the plastic on the underside of the cap. I suspect it has punctured all the way through and is now sticking out the top of the plastic cap.

"How does such a thing happen?" You might ask... It can happen with a front fire rapidly causing a high pressure inside the intake manifold (probably caused by a lean running condition). That high pressure burst tries to rapidly push the suction piston up, but (just like they're supposed to do) the jiggly bits on the damper stalk try to slow the piston's upward rise. However, in this case, the explosion wins, the damper can't get out of the way fast enough, and the stalk blows out the top of the plastic cap.

Edited by Captain Obvious
I can't spel
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so I removed the two caps ser rhe picture. they were dry. from what in reading shouldn't there be oil on there? also in regards to the vent on the valve cover would it be better to plug the port on the intake manifold and just put a filter on the valve cover?  

20180915_195220.jpg

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