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1970 HLS30-06521 Re-Restoration


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8 hours ago, 240dkw said:

Mike, here are a couple of photos, as there is no pressure as long as your PCV is working I would think that a few drops of Loctite would stop any leaking around there. Are you sure its not coming from the weep hole just above my thumb in the first photo. If the internal seal fails it will leak from there. All of the ones I have rebuilt had a failed seal.

Thanks Dan, the weep hole on my Nikki pump is in a different location and doesn't seem to be leaking at that point. My weep hole is on the opposite side just above the pump fastening nut. It does seem to be leaking at the pin, here is are a couple of pictures.

I am interested in your kit, as my parts car engine also has a Nikki pump that hopefully I can rebuild. If your kit will work with a Nikki please PM me.

Nikki Fuel Pump-Leak.jpg

20201022_055210c.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Been a while since my last update. Not much to report but yesterday I removed the main body electrical harness, interior light and rear defrost harnesses and the body antenna cable. When removing these I attached wire to the ends before I pulled them out so that it will be easier to fish them back in when it's time to re-assemble. I also used cling wrap and tape to cover and hold the connectors and branch wires against the main harness bundle, to prevent the harness assembly from getting snagged as I pulled it through the body. Seemed to work well. All of the electrical has now been removed.

20201212_130019_HDR.jpg20201212_130347_HDR.jpg20201212_130554.jpg

 

I will have a bit of work to cleanup this harness but I didn't do any damage, even the grommets are salvageable.

20201213_080620.jpg

The harness all have the original date coded tags intact. Here are pictures of the main body harness, followed by the interior light harness. I was wondering what the number 2 in the triangle after the part number indicates. I thinking that is a revision to the assembly that is still backwards compatible and not requiring a change to the part number.

20201213_080800.jpg20201213_080854.jpg

 

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I also want to thank Dan, @240dkw for selling me the rebuild kit for my Nikki fuel pump.

20201213_102254.jpg

It was very generous of him to include a set of the plastic retainers for my spark plug leads. I was missing one and most of the others were cracked. Here is how they look on my 1970 dated coded Yazaki leads,

20201213_093424.jpg

The yellow date code and Yazaki writing is quite faded but is still legible. In 2005 I put on new spark plug leads as I couldn't remember when I last changed them. I almost tossed these out before I realized that they were original.

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The distributor cap is not original, but it is a Hitachi, and has the logo. I purchased it in the early eighties from the parts counter at my local Datsun dealer.

IMG_4732cr.JPG

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  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

A member requested a few more pictures and dimensions of the original Yakazi spark plug and coil leads I have for my car, so I thought I would share here as well.

Coil Lead:

1970 240Z COIL WIRE OEM.jpg

 

Spark Plug Leads:

1970 240Z PLUG WIRE OEM.jpg

20210508_070437.jpg

 

Dimensions (revised May 18/21):

1970 PLUG WIRE DIMS-Rev A.jpg

Edited by CanTechZ
Replaced sketched with revision A, corrected lengths.
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Great stuff Mike,

some wires have a long /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ and some have a short /\/\/\, is that the same on each wire. Also I see 3 YAZAKI 1970 16 3 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 3 on the middle lead. Does this repeat along the wire from end to end?

Roo

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, SpeedRoo said:

Great stuff Mike,

some wires have a long /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ and some have a short /\/\/\, is that the same on each wire. Also I see 3 YAZAKI 1970 16 3 /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ 3 on the middle lead. Does this repeat along the wire from end to end?

Roo

Yes, that pattern does repeat for the full length. The 3 YAZAKI 1970 only appears a couple of times (possibly 3 times on some wires). And the point in the pattern where it starts on each wire varies, as if it is cut from a spool for each number series. The longer \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ markings seem to correct the pattern for the intermittent name and date code markings.

Here's a picture from the 1971 (HLS30-04684) with 21,000 mikes that sold for 310K last year on BAT, the markings are a lot brighter yellow than mine, Just noticed that it is missing one of the wires holders for the 1,2,3 leads. I wonder how much money was left on the table with this item missing. LOL. Thanks again Dan, @240dkwfor the ones you sent me to complete my set.

1971_datsun_240z_1578698512e44c1e9240Z_129_web_mu.jpg

Edited by CanTechZ
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6 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

I don't know if it's been mentioned, but those /\/\/\/\/\/\ markings probably signify "resistor".

That makes sense,

image.png

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15 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

Dimensions:

1970 PLUG WIRE DIMS.jpg

That drawing takes me back to my school days doing technical drawing by hand with a pencil. It's all computer generated now!

The wire number seems to be set 15mm apart, is that correct?

Roo

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20 hours ago, SpeedRoo said:

That drawing takes me back to my school days doing technical drawing by hand with a pencil. It's all computer generated now!

The wire number seems to be set 15mm apart, is that correct?

Roo

Thanks Roo, I'm old school, so most of my cad work starts with a hand sketch. I sill have a drafting table in my home office.

Using wire number three as an example the wire numbers are 5mm tall and 56mm center to center. Except where the YAZAKI 1970 markings are, for those the numbers are 73mm c/c. Number 3 appears 11 times, like this:

73-56-56-56-56-73-56-56-56-56

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It would be nice to pull the relevant wire data out of this thread and post it as a tech article in the resources section

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Posted (edited)
On 5/10/2021 at 6:41 AM, Patcon said:

It would be nice to pull the relevant wire data out of this thread and post it as a tech article in the resources section

Good idea. I will get a few more dimensions and do that soon. 

Edit, link added

 

Edited by CanTechZ
Added link
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Perfect Mike, all the data helps being able to replicate the markings on 7mm plug wires. Making up my own screen print to do so. Found some new old stock distributor caps with the brass inserts to use with replicated wires.

Roo

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/10/2021 at 7:48 AM, SpeedRoo said:

Perfect Mike, all the data helps being able to replicate the markings on 7mm plug wires. Making up my own screen print to do so. Found some new old stock distributor caps with the brass inserts to use with replicated wires.

Roo

I just revised the sketch of the leads in my previous post (#80) with more accurate lengths, the method I used with a fabric tape was not the way to go. I got much better, and repeatable numbers, holding the leads in a channel to carefully keep them straight. Anyone recognize the re-purposed holding device.

20210515_102046.jpg

 

I used this method so that I could get accurate measurements of the markings. This will all be in a new topic after I have time to finish with the measuring and cad work. Here is a preview of the number 3 lead. I will also be creating a 2D drawing with dimensions of the markings.

Yazaki Lead 1970 Number 3 - Image 01.JPG

Yazaki Lead 1970 Number 3 - Image 02.JPG

Yazaki Lead 1970 Number 3 - Image 03.JPG

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9 hours ago, SpeedRoo said:

Wow...fantastic work Mike. Going to make it so easy to duplicate with all that information. What markings are on the coil wire?

Roo

Thanks Roo. Unfortunately the coil wire has almost no markings left. I will have to get out the magnifying glass in some very good light, but I don't hold out much hope on that one.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Getting close to pulling the engine, so I picked up a two ton shop crane and engine leveler that was on sale. The leveler has "L" brackets on the end of the chains so I started to see what was required to attach these to the engine. @Racer Xposted pictures of the OEM lifting brackets so that was my starting point. Here is what the OEM's look like:

After reviewing this I thought it made sense, on the front mount, to attach the leveler "L" bracket at the OEM location, and to use both of the two M8 holes that the OEM bracket used. So I took some measurements and made a sketch to fab a small angle to pickup the second bolt. Right after I finished the sketch I had a light bulb moment, thinking "Hey, I have an old spare engine in my shed". It's from a December 1970 parts car I picked and stripped over 30 years ago. To my amazement, it still had an original early single bolt front lifting bracket. It had no rear bracket, but it won't be to difficult to use one of the "L" brackets back there.

 

20210612_093716.jpg

Here is that sketch I made for those who might be interested, with the OEM bracket after I cleaned it up a bit.

20210612_110559-cr.jpg

 

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43 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Here's Jeff g helping me with mine. It jumps around but maybe read over some of the post and you may get that light bulb in your head. Good luck with it!

 

Thanks Site, great reference and will help.

Cheers, Mike

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I've seen those on a bunch or motor pics left on. Just like the rear hooks on 240s back bumper for shipping I removed mine. Stiil have them! But they're useless on our cars after the fact. Those levlers have some tricks to make them work smoother and bot so damn jumpy. If you can't find it in that thread let me know and I can share my experiences that makes it a little easier. @Jeff G 78hopefully will jump in too.

Cliff

Edited by siteunseen
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I'll have to take a look at this closer tonight.  I don't remember exactly what I did, but once I look at the linked thread, it might spark a memory. 

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19 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

I've seen those on a bunch or motor pics left on. Just like the rear hooks on 240s back bumper for shipping I removed mine. Stiil have them! But they're useless on our cars after the fact. Those levlers have some tricks to make them work smoother and bot so damn jumpy. If you can't find it in that thread let me know and I can share my experiences that makes it a little easier. @Jeff G 78hopefully will jump in too.

Cliff

Thanks, I will look for that info. In my case the job will we quite, easy as I have already removed the transmission.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Successful event yesterday pulling the engine, without removing the hood. It only took about 15 minutes to lift it out and mount on my engine stand. Thanks to my friend, Dave. I did spend a good part of the day before doing the rigging and taking measurements to make sure I wouldn't need to remove the hood. Getting very close to sending the shell to my body guy Jody.

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2 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

Successful event yesterday pulling the engine, without removing the hood. It only took about 15 minutes to lift it out and mount on my engine stand. Thanks to my friend, Dave. I did spend a good part of the day before doing the rigging and taking measurements to make sure I wouldn't need to remove the hood. Getting very close to sending the shell to my body guy Jody.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's impressive work.  Nice attention to planning and details.  Not a great deal of ceiling clearance in your garage workspace, either.

I don't think I've ever heard anyone talk about pulling a Z engine without removing to hood.  I don't think I've seen anyone bring the hoist in from the side, either. 

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